“Waves & Tides” 16.2.

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Presentation transcript:

“Waves & Tides” 16.2

How heavy is water? How would it feel if all this water fell on you?

Movement of Ocean Water Moving water is Powerful! Waves Energy moving between ocean and atmosphere. Transfer energy over great distances! Tides Changes in sea level

Review: What causes waves? Wind Friction! Coriolis Effect Density changes Q: What caused these waves? Must add energy to create waves.

Wave Characteristics Wavelength (L) Crest Height (H) Trough

Wave “Period” Describe the period of these waves. Time for 1 wavelength to pass a fixed point. At the beach you see a small child getting sucked out into the ocean by a strong current. You swim to save the child but are pushed back by wave after wave that comes crashing toward the shore; one after the other. Describe the period of these waves.

Longest Wavelength? Longest Period?

Height, Wavelength & Period… …determined by: Wind Speed Time wind has blown Fetch distance wind blows over water

Tides. Changes in Sea L____ Cause = gravity from Moon (& Sun!) EVEL “Tidal Range”

Spring Tide = Moon & Sun together = High Neap = Opposites = Low

Tidal Patterns Diurnal Semidiurnal Mixed 1 high, 1 low 2 H, 2 L Unequal Highs & Lows