+ Fashion

Fabric for Fashion / Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston Section 1 Animal fibres: Luxury animal fibres

Objectives Identify the luxury animal fibre groups   Describe the main characteristics of alpaca, llama and vicuña fibres Identify the key countries involved in the production of camel-hair fibre and fabric Describe the production of cashmere and mohair Summarize the main uses for yak, qiviut and angora rabbit fibres

Luxury animal fibres Fibres are derived from several animal groups   Coats are supremely soft and warm, with fine hairs and under-fleeces Principal groups are from camelid, camel and goat families Additional groups include yak, qiviut and angora rabbits

Camelids Four South American camelids – alpaca, llama, vicuña and guanaco Alpaca Principal South American fibre-producing animal Proactive marketing of processed fibre in the 1950s increased appeal U.S., Canada, Australia and New Zealand started alpaca farming in the 1980s Selective breeding has resulted in heavier fleeces and finer fibres

Camelids Two types of alpaca – huacaya and suri Huacayas most common breed reared   Suris represent 20% of alpaca population; prized for finer, longer fibres Huacaya fibre marketed as alpaca fleece Suri fibre marketed as alpaca suri Peruvian alpaca marketed with symbol of authenticity

Camelids Alpaca fibre prized for fine, soft and silky-like characteristics Extensive colour range; Peru classifies 52 colours of fleece, the U.S. 22 Processing similar to that for sheep’s wool fibres Low environmental impact farming All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Camelids Llama Limited commercial market; fibre favoured by hand spinners for organic clothing Low maintenance animals with low environmental impact   Thicker fibre count (20 to 40 microns); strong and light with good insulation properties All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Camelids Vicuña First of Camelidae family to be domesticated Raised for their wool by Incas and protected by law Declared endangered by mid 1970s and trade prohibited Anti-poaching efforts led to dramatic comeback Peru taken lead in vicuña conservation

Camelids Peru principal exporter; labelling system is proof animals released back into wild after shearing Finest of all animal fibres (6 to 14 microns) Natural colour is rich golden honey; never dyed Vicuña alpaca cross-breeds are called paco vicuña Italy primary importer of vicuña cloth; Germany principal importer of vicuña clothing

Camel hair Camel hair obtained from two-humped bactrian camel   Best-quality hair from Inner Mongolia (northern China) Iran, Afghanistan, Russia and Tibet produce camel hair Australia and New Zealand now also produce camel hair Clothing fibres are from camel’s down undercoat Best fibres are from underside of baby camel

Camel hair Hair collected by combing, shearing or natural shedding Camel hair is traditionally left undyed   Italy principal importer of fibre; U.S. main destination for camel- hair clothing All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Goat fibre Most important fibre-producing goats are cashmere and angora Cashmere Fibre first woven into pashmina shawls by Kashmiri tribes Fabric named after province of Kashmir (now Pakistan) Fabric popularized due to export of shawls by colonial British Himalayan mountain goat produces best fibre

Goat fibre Fibre must be under 18.5 microns to be labelled cashmere Ratio of down to guard hairs must be above 30% and fibres over 3cm long Through selective breeding Chinese goats yield most fibre Colours range from fawn to brown; white most sought-after All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Goat fibre Best down and yield obtained through hand combing Grading fibres by hand and eye is key to production   Cashmere production represents 1% of textile market    China produces around 60% of global raw cashmere; Outer Mongolia around 20% Scotland, Japan and Italy principal spinners of high- quality cashmere

Goat fibre Mohair Mohair fibre produced from angora goats   Name ‘angora’ derived from region now part of modern-day Ankara (Turkey) Ottoman Empire banned export of raw fleeces Goats imported to U.S. and South Africa by mid 19th century

Goat fibre Mohair fibre is crease resistant, smooth and lustrous Durable, long staple fibres with moisture- wicking properties   Most valuable fibres are the fine under-down Finest fibres produced from first clipping of kid goats All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Goat fibre Angoras not as hardy as cashmere goats; require dry climate, good nutrition and grooming Goats are shorn and fleeces processed to remove vegetable matter South Africa and Lesotho produce over 50% of global output Global production is about 1% of natural fibre production France and Italy main producers of mohair fabric and garments Japan largest importer of mohair fabric

Alternative animal fibres Yak hair Yaks are found in Tibet and China Most valuable fibres are white, fine soft under- down from underbelly   Alternative to cashmere favoured by craft spinners and weavers All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Alternative animal fibres Qiviut Under-wool of musk ox from Alaska and Arctic regions of Canada   Revenue from commercial production benefits local communities Fibre is eight times warmer than wool and softer than cashmere; used in fine knitwear

Alternative animal fibres Angora rabbit One of the oldest domesticated breeds   Principal fibre producing breeds are French (more guard hairs), German (higher fibre ratio), Giant (abundant yield) and Satin (softest and finest fibre) China largest producer of angora hair Angoras are albinos and need to be kept in semi- darkness

Alternative animal fibres Angoras must be well fed and well groomed to produce superior quality yield Fleeces can be shorn or plucked   Ideal for knitwear as produces ‘halo’ effect If woven must be blended with wool All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Key points Principal luxury animal fibre groups are from camelid, camel and goat families Alpaca fibre fine, soft and silky; llama fibre thicker and coarser with good insulation properties; vicuña finest animal fibre Northern China, Iran, Afghanistan, Russia and Tibet all produce camel hair; Italy main importer of fibre; U.S. key clothing destination Himalayan mountain goat produces best cashmere fibre; mohair fibre produced from angora goat Yak fibre used by craft spinners and weavers; qiviut and angora fibres popular for knitwear