OVERWINTERING IN THE INTERIOR THE LOCATION THE BEES THE EQUIPMENT

OVERWINTERING LOCATION CONSIDERATIONS Temperature fluctuations Humidity, Air flow Wind protection Winter access Snow fall

SOME OVERWINTERING HONEY BEE INFO 10 kg honey = 1 gallon of water Winter cluster begins +10C Bees produce: heat, water, carbon dioxide Cluster Centre +20-36C (68-96F) ->energy produced = (20 40w bulbs) Indigestible matter will cause dysentery Inside poop occurs when internal fecal matter reaches ½ the bees weight

WHY DO BEES DIE OVER WINTER? Starvation – low or inaccessible food Mites – treatment too late Temperature Fluctuations Humidity – mould, dripping Old Queens – 2 years Beekeeper mismanagement No Mid Winter Help

OVERWINTERING SETUP FOR SURVIVAL Healthy winter bees that are disease free and raised mite free Provided with sufficient, suitable stores to survive a long cold winter A young queen Humidity and ventilation control

OVERWINTERING MISTAKES I’VE MADE Not testing mite levels after treatment Not aware of Nosema problems Feeding sugar syrup in cold temperature Assuming weight was due to stores Tried to winter weak colonies Didn’t keep ventilation openings clear Didn’t centre the brood nest Didn’t do mid-winter checks

WHY USE WINTER WRAPS? ADVANTAGES? Reduce heat loss Allows sun warming Less food consumed Wind protection Earlier Brood build up Less condensation DISADVANTAGES Cost of Wraps Installation time Over heating effects Affects cleaning flights Continued fall brood

The Quilt Wrap

The Cardboard Wrap

The Styrofoam Wrap

The Hay Bale Protector

SOME WINTER WRAP QUESTIONS What type of winter wrap is best? How much insulation do I need? When should I install and remove the winter wrap? Do I need to clean the winter wraps?

MAKING A WINTER WRAP MATERIALS: 6 mm Black Poly Plastic & Newspaper 24” Fibreglass Insulation Red Tuc Tape & ¼” Plywood TOOLS: Household Iron, Scissors, Sharp Knife