+ Fashion

Fabric for Fashion / Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston Section 3 Man-made fibres: Artificial fibres

Objectives Differentiate between synthetic and artificial fibres   Describe cellulose fibres Identify the key properties of acetate and viscose rayon Describe the eco-friendly credentials of lyocell fibres Summarize the main characteristics of corn, soya, milk and castor oil biopolymer fibres

Man-made fibres Man-made fibres can be categorized as synthetic or artificial Synthetic fibres are made from chemicals derived from fossil fuels Artificial fibres are either plant cellulose or bio- engineered Plant cellulose fibres are regenerated from natural sources such as wood Bio-engineered fibres use proteins, sugars or starches as a starting point  

Cellulose Fibres are made from naturally occurring cellulose present in all plants Term artificial implies chemical intervention is needed for processing Practical applications of cellulose acetate dates back to 1860s Silk substitute cellulose acetate first produced commercially in 1920s Referred to as artificial silk, viscose or rayon

Cellulose Cellulose fibres can be natural or regenerated Wood and cotton linters main source of artificial cellulose fibres New generation of cellulose fibres made from sustainable wood sources All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Acetate and triacetate fibres Construction of the acetate and triacetate fibres differ by the number of processes involved Both produced from wood pulp or cotton linters Both fibres have poor abrasion resistance but good resistance to pilling

Acetate and triacetate fibres Acetate is a low-cost fibre that blends well with natural fibres Silk-like appearance of acetate makes it an ideal lining fabric Triacetate is more heat resistant

Viscose rayon Processed from wood pulp or cotton linters   Term viscose used in Europe; descriptive of its production process U.S. adopted term ‘rayon’ (French for ‘ray of light’) in 1920s Designation ‘rayon’ only applies today to fibres made from regenerated cellulose produced by the viscose process

Viscose rayon Yarn and fabric dye well Natural lustre Fabrics absorbent with soft, smooth touch Lacks durability and insulative properties

Viscose rayon Traditional viscose rayon is not environmentally friendly   New production turning towards sustainable plantations and eco-friendly alternatives Cupro (Cuprammonium rayon) is made from organic cellulose fibres reborn from discarded cotton linters Bemberg™ produces cupro yarns and fabrics; Bemberg linings are used in expensive tailoring

Lyocell New generation viscose rayon made from wood pulp from sustainable sources   Fabric obtained by an organinc solvent spinning process Generally regarded as an eco-friendly fabric All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Lyocell TENCEL®, Modal® and Seacell® produced by the lyocell process using non-toxic recyclable solvents TENCEL®: made from fast-growing eucalyptus which thrive on poor soil and require no irrigation Modal®: made from beech trees which improve soil quality and require no irrigation; processing is carbon neutral, fabric is biodegradable Seacell®: made from seaweed and cellulose fibre Fabrics have good tensile strength, cotton-like qualities with a soft touch

Biopolymer fibres Textile research has centred on expanding plant varieties for fibre production and replacing chemicals with natural enzymes   Adoption of biotechnology cuts processing costs and helps towards a cleaner environment Azlon is a group of man-made fibres made from regenerated naturally occurring proteins such as those found in corn, soya, milk and castor oil beans

Corn fibre Corn fibre first developed during 1940s and revisited in 1990s Strong stable fibres with low flammability and resistant to UV light   Abundant raw material using little energy to produce; garments degrade naturally All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Soya fibre Henry Ford pioneered soya fibre in 1930s Marketed as a green fibre that completely biodegrades Manufacturing processes do not pollute Post production residue used as animal feed In many countries soya production is non-organic and genetically modified

Soya fibre A renewable botanic protein beneficial when worn next to the skin   Smooth as cashmere with a silk-like lustre Fibres repel UV light All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Milk fibre (casein) Fibre used as a wool substitute in 1940s Fibres breathe, capture and dissipate moisture   Milkwood (Lenpur®) is a milk and wood cellulose QMilch® is produced from waste milk; a smooth fibre more akin to silk than wool All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Castor oil fibre Non-GM crop that needs little irrigation Once toxins neutralized the viscose substance is processed like other man- made fibres   A high-performance, abrasion-resistant bacteriostatic non-fossil fuel fibre with thermo- regulating properties ideal for technical clothing All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Key points Synthetic fibres are made from chemicals derived from fossil fuels; artificial fibres are either plant cellulose or bio-engineered   Artificial cellulose fibres can be natural or regenerated, made from wood or cotton linters Acetate is a low-cost fibre with a silk-like appearance; traditional viscose rayon has a smooth touch but lacks durability Lyocell is a new generation viscose rayon made from wood pulp from sustainable sources Collectively known as Azlon fibres, corn, soya, milk, and castor oil bean fibres are processed from regenerated naturally occurring proteins