TE 402 Fabric Design Fabric Analysis Example

Introduction In this study, the fabric analysis and necessary calculations to reproduce the fabric is presented. The process can be explained in two following titles:  Fabric analysis  Calculations

Fabric Analysis  The Face of the fabric is determined.  The warp and weft direction of the fabric is determined.  The warp set and weft set are determined.  The number of warp and weft yarns are determined in Nm.  The crimp of the warp and weft yarns are determined.  Pattern of the fabric is determined  Drafting, denting and lifting report of the fabric is determined.  If the fabric consists of many colors in warp and weft direction, the color report is determined for both warp and weft yarns.

Calculations The yarn count is defined as Nm and it is used for weight calculation L 1 = the stretched length of the warp yarn (without crimp) L 0 = the length of the warp yarn in fabric. Crimp of the warp and weft yarns K 1 = the stretched length of the warp yarn (without crimp) K 0 = the length of the warp yarn in fabric.

n= number of the warp yarns L 1 = the stretched length of the warp yarn (without crimp) c1= the weight loss of the warp yarn after finishing process (%) mass= mass of the ‘n’ warp yarn (gr) n= number of the weft yarns K 1 = the stretched length of the weft yarn (without crimp) mass= mass of the ‘n’ weft yarn (gr) Yarn count calculation

Calculating the warp weight per square meter Calculating the weft weight per square meter Calculating the warp weight per meter Calculating the weft weight per meter

Weigth of weft yarn in fabric (gr) Reed number and reed width

Length of the warp yarn and total weight of the warp yarns (gr) Number of total weft yarns of end product fabric

Calculation of Raw fabric width and length Calculation of Raw fabric weft and warp setts

Calculation of required parameters for weaving preparations

n: rotation speed of main shaft (rev/min) b: working width of the weaving machine µ: efficiency of the weaving machine D: number of weft yarn in 10 cm fabric Calculation of Fabric Production

Example A fabric sample with 1.6 m width and 1500 m length will be produced. The warp yarns has count of 30/1 Ne and the weft yarns has count of 20/1 Ne. Design of the fabric is (s). Assume that the shrinage of the warp and weft yarns because of finishing process are 12% and 10% respectively.

Fabric Pattern Analysis Selvage of the fabric Ground fabric

Color Plan R G B Bk B G R RGB BGR W W Groun yarns color planSelvage color plan Warp yarns Weft yarns Selavge yarns

Color Plan Picking order Warping order colourColour Ordernumber Red11=2 Gold11=2 Blue11=2 Black2=2 Total= 8 ends colourColour Ordernumber Red11=2 Gold11=2 Blue11=2 Black2=2 Total= 8 ends

Selvage order colourColour Ordernumber 1234 Black11=2 White11=2 Total= 4 ends R G B Bk B G R RGB BGR W W

End fabic warp sett = 30 ends/cm End fabric weft sett = 28 picks/cm Warp yarn count: Weft yarn count: Length without cripm (cm)

Warp crimp (%): Weft crimp (%): L 1 (without cripm) L 0 (with cripm) Crimp(%) ______________________________________________________________________________________ Average: 9.7 % Average: 11.5 %

Calculation of Fabric Weight per Meter Square Calculation of Fabric Weight per Meter

Calculations for Reproduction of The Fabric x 2=30 warp yarns for one selvage 1.5 X 30 x 2=60 warp yarns for both elvages ____________ X = 15 dents for selvages Ground warp ends = ∑ warp ends – selvage warp ends = = 4740 ends # of dents = 4740/3 =1580 dents for ground 1580 dents + 15x2 dents (for selvages) = 1610 dents 10 cm 100 dents X 1610 dents X = 161 cm => it is taken as 165 cm x 2 (waste for weft yarns) = 172 cm reed width

Calculation of Weft YarnWeight Calculation of Warp YarnWeight

Raw fabric width and length Raw fabric End fabric

Calculation of Raw fabric weft and warp setts

Calculation of Raw fabric weight in one m 2 and one m

Calculations for weaving preparations

Calculation of Fabric Production n: rotation speed of main shaft (rev/min) b: working width of the weaving machine µ: efficiency of the weaving machine D: number of weft yarn in 10 cm fabric It is assumed that the n=500 rpm and µ=80%