Textile Fibers and Yarns

Objectives: List the main characteristics of natural and manufactured fibers Explain how fibers are marketed Summarize the role of leather and fur as primary materials in fashion Describe new fiber innovations Explain how fibers are made into yarns

Fiber Categories Natural Originate from natural sources Plant (cellulosic) or animal (protein) Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable) Originate from chemical sources May also be from regenerated or recycled sources

Natural Fibers Cellulosic (from plants) Protein (from animals) Cotton From cotton plants Flax (linen) From flax stems Protein (from animals) Silk From cocoons of silkworms Wool From fleece (hair) of sheep or lambs

Textile Terms Fibers Yarns Fabrics Denier Staple: short fibers Usually characterizes a natural fiber Filament: long continuous fibers Usually characterizes a synthetic fiber (except silk) Denier Fiber thickness or diameter Yarns Fibers twisted together Ply refers to how many yarns may be twisted together before weaving Fabrics Yarns woven, knitted, or fused together to create fabric

Cotton Cellulosic fiber From “bolls” (seed pods) growing on bushes Comfortable Soft and durable Absorbent, cool to wear “Environmentally friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors

Wool Protein fiber From sheep Worsted wool is higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches) Natural insulator Will shrink and mat if washed

Flax (Linen) World’s oldest textile fiber Cellulosic fiber from stem of flax plant Stiff, wrinkles easily Absorbent, cool to wear in heat Other uses Dish towels Tablecloths Linens Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name.

Other Natural Fibers Ramie Jute Sisal Hemp Raffia Cellulosic Fibers Down feathers Hair fibers from Goats Rabbits Camels Cellulosic Fibers Protein Fibers

Marketing Natural Fibers Natural fiber trade associations: Cotton Incorporated National Cotton Council Wool Bureau, Inc. Mohair Council of America International Silk Association Provide fabric libraries Natural Fibers r cool

Leather and Fur From hides or pelts (skins) of animals Expensive Artificial substitutes available (faux leather and fur) Leather used mainly for footwear Fur used for “prestige” apparel and accessories

Manufactured Fibers Process Raw materials melted or dissolved to form thick syrup Liquid extruded through spinneret Extruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers

Categories of Manufactured Fibers (generic groups) Variants: trade or brand names given to slightly modified generic fibers Example: ANTRON nylon used for hosiery Generic group: a family of manufactured fibers with similar chemical composition Common generic fibers from chemical or petroleum products: Polyester Nylon Olefin Acrylic

Manufactured Fibers Qualities that may be less than desirable Feel clammy because they are nonabsorbent Build up static electricity Susceptible to oil stains Qualities that are unique or superior to natural fibers Elasticity Nonallergenic Strength Resistant to abrasion

Other Types of Manufactured Fibers Fibers that come from a plant (cellulosic) source; chemically altered to create new fibers (regenerated) Rayon Acetate and Triacetate Lyocell

Fiber Innovation and Trends Fibers are designed for specific end-uses Polymers (chemical compounds) are engineered to meet needs “Microfibers” are ultra-fine deniers that make softer, more luxurious fabrics Spandex added in fiber blends to make stretchable fabrics NEW!! Plastic soft drink bottles recycled into apparel

Marketing Manufactured Fibers Trademarked variants assure consumers of quality American Fiber Manufacturers Association helps inform the consumer, maintain government relations, and monitor foreign trade policy

Spinning Fibers into Yarns Spinning draws, twists, and winds staple, filament, or blends of both fibers into long, cohesive strands or yarns Yarns wound onto bobbins or spools Twist may vary, creating different yarn properties Early 18th century spinning wheel

Yarn Terminology Yarn blends Combination yarns Textured yarns Combining two or more fibers into a spun yarn Combination yarns Contain two or more plys of different fibers Textured yarns Changing the surface of a yarn using chemicals, heat, or machinery Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns.

Do You Know . . . The American Yarn Spinners Association deals with the government on yarn-industry issues such as trade laws, customs regulations, packaging, labeling, and product standards.