Camouflage Make-up

Camouflage Make -Up Camouflage make –up is the application of make up to conceal or disguise unwanted ‘marks’ or irregularities in the skin using a variety of specialised cosmetic products. These products are design to even the skin tone and give a natural appearance.

Camouflage make -up Brain storm: In groups brainstorm and think about the following- Who would use camouflage make-up What conditions or reasons would it be applied. How will you have to act if treating a client with a medical condition. How may the client with a medical condition feel.

Consultation: The aim of the consultation is the discover the needs of your client and the out come they desire. If treating a client with a skin condition remember they may feel embarrassed and have low self esteem. Be understanding and reassuring. Try to make the treatment as relaxing as possible. Keep their expectation realistic, camouflage make up can hide uneven skin tones but any uneven texture will still be visible although may appear less noticeable. It can only offer up to 75% coverage.

What will it cover: Birthmarks Chloasma (Also known as Malasma, mask of pregnancy as causes green pigment, Symmetrical dark patches on the face) Vitiligo (Michael Jackson had this, White patches on the face and body) Moles and freckles (Pigmentation caused by melanin) Port wine stain (Very dark red stain on the skin) Strawberry mark (Usually a shape and or red in colour) Scars, Burns, Bruising Hypo pigmentation ( Loss of colour) Hyper pigmentation ( Increase of colour) Tattoos

Camouflage History: There are several well known brands of cosmetic camouflage make up available but who created camouflage cosmetics and why?

Lydia O’Leary In 1928, this University graduate used her knowledge of chemistry and love of painting to develop a cosmetic product to disguise her port wine stain birth mark. Covermark products were created. Covermark is the first and only foundation to receive a patent by the US Patent and Trademark Office, this paved the way for camouflage products to be accepted as medical aids rather than beauty product.

Joyce Allworth During the 1950’s Joyce researched and implemented the concept of ‘Remedical Camouflage products’ Joyce trained members of the British Red Cross, She was involved in setting up initial clinics around Britain to help WWII victims. She helped Veil developed new colours. In 1985 she formed the British Association of Skin Camouflage. She dedicated 50 years of her life promoting skin camouflage and training.

Doreen Trust Is another pioneer who was born with a facial birth mark. She promoted camouflage make- up by writing papers for the British Journal of Dermatology. She supports the use of laser treatments to reduce birth marks. She founded the Disfigurement Guidance Centre, which offers information, guidance and support for those with facial disfigurements.

Max factor In the early 1920’s Max factor developed camouflage make-up with the aid of American plastic surgeons to aid war veterans who were severely scared. Max factor is not so well known for his work with camouflage make-up but is renown for creating pancake make-up.

Camouflage Products: There some brands of camouflage make-up available to purchase, 5 are available on NHS prescription: Covermark Dermablend Dermacolour Keromask Veil

Qualities of Camouflage products: Hypo – allergenic Highly pigmented Perfume Free Opaque (Not transparent or translucent. Offers up to 75% coverage) When applied and fixed is water resistant Lasts for 8 – 24 hours if fixed Contain a SPF factor ( Titanium dioxide and Iron oxide are used to reflect UV light but have 2 disadvantages – when photographed can cause whitening and if applied to darker skin tones it can appear grey.)

Applying Camouflage make-up Ensure your work area is clean, tidy and have all the equipment you need. All full and detailed consultation must be performed. Ensure there is correct lighting – Tungsten lighting gives a yellow colour cast. Fluorescent lighting gives a green colour cast.

Make sure the clients skin is ready to apply the camouflage make-up Make sure the clients skin is ready to apply the camouflage make-up. Cleanse, tone and moisturise if needed. Ensure the product you use are suitable for the client. Chose the correct colour to neutralise the dominant colours. Remember these are opposites on the colour chart! Powder, wait then reasses the area, if more neutralising colour needs to be added then do so. Remember it is better to build up the layer than add fewer thicker layers! Take your time!

When the predominant colours are muted then apply a match of their skin tone. More than one colour may need to be mixed to create the correct skin tone – this can be checked on another part of the ‘natural’ skin. Powder again, when you have the desired look finish with setting powder and fixing spray.

After Care: Remove make-up with an oil based cleanser, again this need to be suitable for the clients skin. Tone and moisturise if need. On larger hard to reach areas of the body the make-up can be left on for longer.

The client should avoid using oil based product on the camouflage area (unless removing it) Although camouflage make-up is water resistant avoid rubbing the area and pat dry instead. If a client is required to reapply the make-up ensure they fully understand what they need to do and feel confident in doing so.