Micro Fibre Dyeing Micro Fibre Dyeing Micro Fibre Dyeing By Roy Gordon

Dyeing 1 Key Issues The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres. Build-up properties. Washfastness. BUILD-UP WASH FASTNESS 1 Depth of shade X 1/ fibre dpf. Finer fibres need more dye. 2 Dye buildup properties can vary with finer fibres. DYE & AUXILIARY SELECTION 1 High dye applications needed. 2 Washfastness relates to surface dye. Microfibres have very high surface area. Problems Causes Remedies

Dyeing 2 Various factors POTENTIAL CAUSES REMEDIES PROBLEMS Dye uptake at lower temperatures. J Commence dyeing at lower start temperatures. LEVEL DYEING Faster dye uptake rate. J Use slower rate of temperature rise up to top temperature. Residues from preparation steps. J Use of auxiliaries to level and protect from residues. Poor penetration of high twist yarns on J Compatible dye combinations. high density fabric. CREASING & Poor relaxed shrinkage in preparation. J Control over the preparation process. CROWS FEET Rapid temperature rise at critical heating J Use slower rate of temperature rise up to and cooling phases. top temperature. J Use of anticrease auxiliaries. LIGHTFASTNESS High surface area exposed to light. J Careful selection of Dyes. J Use of UV absorbers to reduce fading. Microfibre mixed with conventional J Dye selection fibres. DYE COVERAGE Flat and textured yarns combined. J Dyeing process to improve leveling. Filaments of varying cross section. J Use of auxiliaries to improve dyeing. Inadequate preparation leaving spin J Good quality preparation. ABRASION finish, oils, oligomer and WR residues. MARKS Incorrect machine type. J Correct machine type usage. J Dyeing lubricant to reduce abrasion.

Dyeing 3. Process Microfibre Dyeing Process: Takes account of… Rapid strike and exhaustion on Microfibres. Greater rate and extent of shrinkage. Lower temperature exhaustion and shrinkage, relative to conventional fibres. Rate of rise depends on the machine liquor interchange and dye type. Temp 130 110 90 70 50 90oC 70oC 50oC 130oC x 45’ 2o/min 1o/min 3o/min Conventional Microfibre Fill @ 50 oC Load Auxiliaries and pump. Load buffer and dyes. Raise temperature - Rate 1. Raise temperature - Rate 2. Hold at Top Temperature. Cool at Rate 1. Hot rinse @ 90oC Use Rate’s 1 & 2. RC or Wash @ 90-95oC. Rinse Drop cold, < 55oC. Tip : Plait down fabric evenly

Dyeing 4.1 Auxiliaries 1 Microfibre Dyeing Auxiliaries: Must take account of.... Fibre variations in dpf, cross section, texturising and polymer type. Variations in dye types, helping to balance strike and migration. The inevitable carry-over of residues and contamination into the dye bath. NEARGAL HP-MF Dispersant and levelling agent. New Levels without retarding, so perfect for micofibres. Oligomer dispersant, so minimal WR problems. Proven in yarn package dyeing. ( See later presentation.) LUBRIFIL LAF Emulsifier, anticrease and compatibiliser. Emulsifies de dusting agents and residual oils. Enhances Heat Setting efficiency. Reduces creasing and abrasion. A problem solver.

Dyeing 4.2 Auxiliaries 2 NAISTAT 1350 Oil scavenger, anticrease, lubricant, finishing agent. High affinity for polyester allows displacement of residual oils from polyester. Powerful lubricity to reduce abrasion and creases. Durable finish; antistat, soil release, soft and hydrophilic. NEARCHEL TMC High Temperature stable sequesterant. Suitable for preparation and bleaching. Disaggregates dyes for penetration. Powerful metal binding, even at high temperatures. MATEXIL LN-RD High activity levelling agent. For light or problem shades. Success over Lyogen DMF, Levenol, Sunsalt LM7.

Dyeing 4.3 Auxiliary Solutions Auxiliary Solutions Problems Rapid dye uptake rate. (Actually ~ x 4) Residues from spinning and preparation. Poor penetration. Crease problems. Varying filament dye uptake. Auxiliary Solutions Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL HP-MF New NEARGAL SD-PE Emulsifier and Scavenger LUBRIFIL LAF NAISTAT 1350 Oligomer Dispersant NEARGAL HP-MF New Penetration aid LUBRIFIL LAF Dye Dispersant NEARGAL DN Anticrease agent LUBRIFIL LAF Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL SD-PE NEARGAL HP-MF New

Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds (@ 260 m/m) Dyeing 4.4 Auxiliaries 3 Some Recipes Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds (@ 260 m/m) Basic (For blends or 100% polyester.) NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/l LUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l NEARGAL SD-PE 1 g/l Problem shades (For 100% polyester.) NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/l NEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/l LUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l Problem fabrics (For 100% polyester.) NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/l NAISTAT 1350 2 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l NEARGAL SD-PE 1.5 g/l Problem fabrics and shades (For 100% polyester.) NEARGAL DN 0.5 - 1 g/l NEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/l NAISTAT 1350 2 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l

Dyeing 5.1 Dyes : General Microfibre Dye Selection: Must take account of.... Compatibility and suitability for the application. The wash fastness requirements on medium to heavy shades. The rapid buildup and levelling problems on fine fibres. The mixture of fibre type in many microfibres. Pales shades B class dyes give :… - the best levelness and coverage. - compatibility in trichromatic shades. Medium / Heavy C class dyes give :… - good levelness and coverage. - good general compatibility. - all round fastness properties. All dye variations or incompatibilities are exaggerated when dyeing Microfibres.

orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents. Dyeing 5.2 Buildup Colour Build-up “rule of thumb” : fine filaments dye light, course filaments dye dark. Fothergills equation. (in 1944) C1 W2 C2 W1 C1 & C2 = % dye applied. W1 & W2 = DPF of fibrils. = This equation does not take account of delustering agents, fibre cross section, orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents.

Dyeing 5.3 Fastness Light Fastness “rule of thumb” : reductions of 0.5 to 1.5 point for Micro vs regular fibre. The high surface area exposes more dye to UV light, thus reducing light fastness. Testing : Xenotest vs wool standards. ISO 105 B02 International BS 1006 B02 British DIN 54004 German This may restrict dye selection, especially for sportswear. Trevira Finesse Specified @ 5 Trevira Micronesse Specified @ 4-5 Coolmax Specified @ ?? UV absorbers can be added to the disperse dyebath for the highest standards.

Dyeing 5.4 Fastness Wash Fastness : a constant problem. THE CAUSES ? High surface area, means a greater amount of surface dye present. Weight Reduced fibres have oligomer residues that can reduce fastness. Weight Reduced fibres have a rough surface that can act as a store for oligomer and surface dye. WR on delusted fibres leave pores, that act as reservoirs of surface dye. Spandex Microfibre may have silicone residues that reduce fastness. THE REMEDIES ? A very effective wash after Weight Reduction is essential. A very effective high temperature Reduction Clear and wash is essential. A double Reduction Clear may be required. Use of wetting, penetrating and dispersing auxiliaries in both WR wash and RC.

Reduction Clear NEARGAL DN @ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone creates wash fastness problems for microfibres. NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye. Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant. NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear Lifts surface dye and disperses residues. @ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l (& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l

Dyeing 5.5 Dyes : The best dyes to use on polyester are : Those with Identical Exhaustion Rates Easy clearing dyes : eg Diester dyes Azo-Thiophene dyes

NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes. Dyeing 6 Conjugates : With certain types of conjugate filament…. The compliment or core polymer fibrils may “grin” through the shade, creating a streaky, speckled and uneven look. This mainly occurs where : - the compliment fibril is only shocked (by swelling or physical cracking) rather than dissolving. - the complimentary fibril is a major part. - the conjugate microfibre is a major component of the fabric. - the nylon component is not structurally covered by polyester. Regain solidity of shade by overdyeing with acid dyes. NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes.

Bodied Finish Softener Example 1 Light Weight Silk Desize / Scour & Relax Pre Heat Set Weight Reduce Dye Finish with Dry Mild Set Simple Process Wash off RC Pre-steam if possible. Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 30”. Wash and scour with NEARFIL FAC 0.3 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l Rinse, and refill. Weight Reduce to calculated %WR. Use accelerant. ~ 1 g/l Rinse @ 90 C, then wash @ 95C with NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l Hot rinse again until neutral. Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l NEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems. RC as for WR Washing. Finish by padding @ 60% PU NEARFINISH M88 20 g/l Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40”. Heat Set improver Oil Scorch Protector Silicone & Set oil Scour system Dispersing and Washing system. Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering. Bodied Finish Softener

Soft hydrophIlic, soil release Example 2 Sports Wear - Spandex Normal Process Wash, scour and relax with NEARFIL FAC 0.2 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l LUBRIFIL LAF 1.5 g/l Rinse, and refill. Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’. Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l NEARGAL SD-PE leveling problems. Rinse @ 90 C, then RC @ 90 C with NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l Hot rinse again Finish by exhaust @ 80oC NAISTAT 1350 4% owf Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’. Desize / Scour & Relax Heat Set improver Oil Scorch Protector Silicone & Set oil Scour system Pre Heat Set Dispersing and Washing system. Dye RC Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering. Finish with Dry Mild Set Soft hydrophIlic, soil release antistatic finish.

The Tool Kit The Products The Process The Advantage NEARFIL FAC Deaeration No foam wetting. LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch Scour & Dye Scour-Dye & Anticrease NEARPON KR Scour Efficient Cleaning NEARCHEL TMC Scour Removal of soaps Dyeing Disaggregator NEARCAND LT 75 Setting & Finish Reduce scorching Bleach White nylon NEARGAL DN Dyeing Dispersant and cleaner. NEARGAL SD-PE Dyeing Dispersant & Leveller NAISTAT 1350 Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch Finishing Hydrophilic, soil release NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing Hydrophilic, elastic NEARSOPHT BF100 Finishing Full body cationic. NEARFINISH M88 Finishing Bodied effect.

Thank you