Growing Cycles, Common Sizes, Training and Pruning Deciduous Fruit Trees Growing Cycles, Common Sizes, Training and Pruning Deciduous Fruit Tree Growing Cycle Growing Cycles, Common Sizes, Training and Pruning © Ron LaFond 2006

Timing of the Cycle The timing of the cycle depends on several factors Local climate Local weather Plant varieties Timing of the Cycle The timing of the cycle depends on several factors Local climate Local weather Plant varieties © Ron LaFond 2006

Early Spring The plant is at the end of its dormant stage Vegetative or foliage buds are swelling Reproductive or flower buds begin to open Early Spring The plant is at the end of its dormant stage Vegetative or foliage buds are swelling Reproductive or flower buds begin to open © Ron LaFond 2006

Mid to Late Spring Flowering is in full swing Leafing-out begins Earliest blooms are dropping First fruit are forming Mid to Late Spring Flowering is in full swing Leafing-out begins Earliest blooms are dropping First fruit are forming © Ron LaFond 2006

Early Summer Leafing-out is complete Branches are growing longer Fruit should be thinned Early Summer Leafing-out is complete Branches are growing longer Fruit should be thinned © Ron LaFond 2006

Mid to Late Summer Fruit are ripening Vegetative growth is slowing Next season’s flower buds are beginning to forming Mid to Late Summer Fruit are ripening Vegetative growth is slowing Next season’s flower buds are beginning to forming © Ron LaFond 2006

Fall Vegetative growth stops Last of the fruit are ripe Leaves begin to drop Bud scales form over reproductive and vegetative buds Tree enters dormancy Fall Vegetative growth stops Last of the fruit are ripe Leaves begin to drop Bud scales form over reproductive and vegetative buds Tree enters dormancy © Ron LaFond 2006

Winter Leaves have dropped Tree is dormant Flower buds finish forming with winter chill Winter Leaves have dropped Tree is dormant Flower buds finish forming with winter chill © Ron LaFond 2006

Late Winter – Early Spring In late Winter to early Spring the flower buds swell and bud scales crack and fall away The cycle begins again Late Winter – Early Spring In late Winter to early Spring the flower buds swell and bud scales crack and fall away The cycle begins again © Ron LaFond 2006

Winter Chill An accumulation of temperatures of 45ºF or less through the Winter dormancy Winter chill is measured in hours Winter chill is necessary for most deciduous fruit varieties to set fruit Some varieties require as much as 750 hours of Winter chill We might get 300 to 350 hours Winter Chill An accumulation of temperatures of 45ºF or less through the Winter dormancy Winter chill is measured in hours Winter chill is necessary for most deciduous fruit varieties to set fruit Some varieties require as much as 750 hours of Winter chill We might get 300 to 350 hours © Ron LaFond 2006

Sizes of Fruit Trees Fruit trees are commonly grown in 4 different sizes Standard trees – 20’ to 35’ Semi-dwarf trees – 10’ to 15’ Dwarf trees – 5’ to 8’ Genetic dwarf trees 3’ to 5’ Sizes of Fruit Trees Fruit trees are commonly grown in 4 different sizes Standard trees – 20’ to 35’ Semi-dwarf trees – 10’ to 15’ Dwarf trees – 5’ to 8’ Genetic dwarf trees 3’ to 5’ © Ron LaFond 2006

Training Methods for Young Fruit Trees Originally printed in 1944 Training Methods for Young Fruit Trees © Ron LaFond 2006

Training Young Fruit Trees Framework of fruit and nut trees is developed in the first 3 years 3 common methods used to train young trees Central leader method Modified central leader method Vase method Ultimate height of the tree determines the method selected Training Young Fruit Trees Most of the framework of fruit and nut trees is developed in the first 3 years There are 3 common methods used to train young fruit and nut trees Central leader method Modified central leader method Vase method The ultimate height of the tree determines the method selected © Ron LaFond 2006

Central Leader Method The tree is maintained with a single central leader This creates a strong and typically taller tree This method produces more internal shade and less ventilation Taller trees require taller ladders Central Leader Method The tree is maintained with a single central leader This creates a strong and typically taller tree This method produces more internal shade and less ventilation Taller trees require taller ladders © Ron LaFond 2006

Central Leader Method Central Leader Method © Ron LaFond 2006

Modified Central Leader Method A compromise between the central leader method and the vase method Produces the strength of a central trunk yet opens the tree to light and ventilation Central leader stops at 6’ to 10’ and just above a branch Modified Central Leader Method This method is a compromise between the central leader method and the vase method The modified central leader method produces the strength of a central trunk yet opens the tree to light and ventilation like vase pruning The central leader is stopped at 6’ to 10’ and just above a branch © Ron LaFond 2006

Modified Central Leader Method Scaffold branches are selected Choose scaffold branches for position – Radial symmetry Vertical placement Angle of branch crotch Subsequent prunings follow the vase method This method also produces a taller tree requiring taller ladders Modified Central Leader Method Main scaffold branches are selected along the trunk Choose scaffold branches for position – radial symmetry, vertical placement and angle of branch crotch Subsequent prunings follow the vase method This method also produces a taller tree requiring taller ladders © Ron LaFond 2006

Modified Central Leader Method © Ron LaFond 2006

Vase Pruning Method Most widely used method particularly in backyard orchards Accessible canopy –6’ or 8’ step ladders Open center for maximum light and ventilation Commonly used with apricots, plums, nectarines and peaches Can be used with apples, pears and olives Vase Pruning Method Vase pruning is the most widely used method particularly in backyard orchards The canopy of the tree is most accessible – can be reached with a 6’ or 8’ step ladder Creates an open center for maximum light and ventilation This method is commonly used with apricots, plums, nectarines and peaches It can be used with apples, pears and olives © Ron LaFond 2006

Vase Pruning Method The trunk stays short – to 3’ 3 main scaffold limbs are selected Secondary branches are selected to fill out the primary scaffold branches Vase Pruning Method The trunk stays short – to 3’ Typically 3 main scaffold limbs are selected Secondary branches are selected to fill out the primary scaffold branches © Ron LaFond 2006

Vase Pruning Method Vase Pruning Method © Ron LaFond 2006

Vase Pruning Step-By-Step Vase Pruning Step-By-Step © Ron LaFond 2006

Expectations When someone plants a fruit tree – when do they want to see their first crop? What is the biggest mistake most people make when planting fruit trees? Expectations When someone plants a fruit tree – when do they want to see their first crop? What is the biggest mistake most people make when planting fruit trees? © Ron LaFond 2006

At Planting When planting from a bare-root Cut the main leader back to about 2-1/2’ above the ground above a strong lateral bud Prune any remaining lateral branches back to 2 buds If planting from a container – cut back the 1st dormant season Let grow during 1st growing season – no pruning At Planting When planting from a bare-root Cut the main leader back to about 2-1/2’ above the ground above a strong lateral bud Prune any remaining lateral branches back to 2 buds If planting from a container – cut back the 1st dormant season Let the tree grow during the 1st growing season – do no pruning © Ron LaFond 2006

Cut At Too Steep Of An Angle Cutting Above A Bud Cutting Above A Bud From left to right Leader was cut too far above the bud Leader was cut too close to the bud Leader was cut at too steep of an angle Leader was cut correctly Cut Too Long Cut Too Close To the Bud Cut At Too Steep Of An Angle Cut Just Right © Ron LaFond 2006

The First Dormant Season The tree has been in the ground for an entire growing season 2nd season if planted during the season from a container Select 3 branches with wide crotch angles Evenly distributed radially 6” to 8” vertical spacing between them The First Dormant Season After the tree has been in the ground for an entire growing season The second season if planted during the season from a container Select 3 branches with wide crotch angles They should be evenly distributed radially There should be 6” to 8” vertical spacing between them © Ron LaFond 2006

The First Dormant Season These will become the main scaffold branches Head back to about 1/2 their length Cut remaining main leader off above the “new” top scaffold branch If less than 3 branches to choose from – do not cut off the remaining leader Select the 3rd scaffold branch the following season The First Dormant Season These will become the main scaffold branches Head these branches back to about 1/2 their length Cut the remaining main leader off above the “new” top scaffold branch If there are less than 3 branches to choose from – do not cut off the remaining leader Select the 3rd scaffold branch the following season © Ron LaFond 2006

Second Growing Season Select 2 buds to develop into lateral branches One towards the end One about 1/2 way back to the trunk From the sides of the scaffold branches – not the top or bottom Let these branches develop throughout the summer with no pruning Second Growing Season Select 2 buds to develop into branches along the scaffold branches Select one towards the end and one about 1/2 the distance back to the trunk They should come from the sides of the scaffold branches – not the top or bottom Let these branches develop throughout the summer with no pruning © Ron LaFond 2006

Second Dormant Season Reduce the scaffold branches back by about 2/3s above a strong bud or lateral branch Head back the lateral branches by half – to upward and outward facing buds The “fruiting cylinder” is formed by the removal of branches in the center of the canopy This style of pruning develops a cylinder of foliage hollow in the center Second Dormant Season Reduce the scaffold branches back by about 2/3s above a strong bud or lateral branch Head back the lateral branches by half – to upward and outward facing buds The “fruiting cylinder” is formed by the removal of branches in the center of the canopy This style of pruning develops a cylinder of foliage hollow in the center © Ron LaFond 2006

Third Growing Season Most trees should be ready to bear and support a fruit crop Subsequent prunings should all be done during the winter dormancy period After pruning remove all foliage from the tree and off of the ground Remove any “mummies” from the tree Third Growing Season Most trees should be ready to bear and support a fruit crop Subsequent prunings should all be done during the winter dormancy period After pruning remove all foliage from the tree and off of the ground Remove any “mummies” from the tree © Ron LaFond 2006

Pruning the Most Common Fruit Trees Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Oriental Plums, Apples, Pears and Cherries Pruning the Most Common Fruit Trees Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Oriental Plums, Apples, Pears and Cherries © Ron LaFond 2006

Peaches and Nectarines Produces fruit on 1 year old or last season’s growth Prune 1/2 to 2/3 of all of last season’s wood Reasons: Fast growing Needs new wood to bear fruit on Hard pruning helps to support weight of crops Peaches and Nectarines Produces fruit on 1 year old or last season’s growth Prune 1/2 to 2/3 of all 1 last season’s wood Reasons: Fast growing Needs new wood to bear fruit on Hard pruning helps to support weight of crops © Ron LaFond 2006

Apricots & Oriental Plums Produces fruit spurs on 2nd year wood Fruit spurs are short-lived – 3 to 4 years Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly Head back last season’s wood by 1/3 to 1/2 Reasons: Stimulate more fruiting wood – preserving older wood to encourage new fruit spur development Support the weight of crops Allow light and air circulation Apricots & Oriental Plums Produces fruit spurs on 2nd year wood Fruit spurs are short-lived – 3 to 4 years Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly Head back last season’s wood by 1/3 to 1/2 Reasons: Stimulate more fruiting wood while preserving enough older wood to encourage new fruit spur development Support the weight of crops Allow light and air circulation © Ron LaFond 2006

Apples, Pears & Cherries Produces on long-lived fruit spurs that develop on 2 to 3 year old wood Fruit spurs can live 20 to 25 years Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly Reason: Slow growing – heavy pruning is not necessary Apples, Pears & Cherries Produces on long-lived fruit spurs that develop on 2 to 3 year old wood Fruit spurs can live 20 to 25 years Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly Reason: Slow growing – heavy pruning is not necessary © Ron LaFond 2006

In General The hardest pruning is done at the top of the tree The goal is to: Maintain the desires height Maintain the overall shape and size Less hard-pruning is done within the fruiting cylinder In General The hardest pruning is done at the top of the tree The goal is to: Maintain the desires height Maintain the overall shape and size Less hard-pruning is done within the fruiting cylinder © Ron LaFond 2006

Roses Roses © Ron LaFond 2006

Hybrid Tea Roses Prune in winter when dormant Bloom on current season’s growth Remove all suckers below the graft union Remove any dead, damaged or diseased canes Develop 6 to 12 equally spaced canes Younger canes tend to flower heavier Canes should be from 18” to 36” high by 1/2” in diameter Hybrid Tea Roses Prune in winter when dormant Bloom on current season’s growth Remove all suckers below the graft union Remove any dead, damaged or diseased canes Develop 6 to 12 equally spaced canes Younger canes tend to flower heavier Canes should be from 18” to 36” high by 1/2” in diameter © Ron LaFond 2006

Hybrid Tea Roses After pruning the shrub should appear as an open vase shape with few to no branches All cuts should be made to upward and outward facing buds Cuts should be made at a slight angle away from the bud Remove all foliage from the plant and ground Hybrid Tea Roses After pruning the shrub should appear as an open vase shape with few to no branches All cuts should be made to upward and outward facing buds Cuts should be made at a slight angle away from the bud After pruning remove all foliage from the plant and ground under the plant © Ron LaFond 2006

Climbing Roses Prune in winter when dormant Flowers occur towards the ends of new growth in spring and summer Train canes horizontally to establish a framework As new lateral canes develop along the main canes train horizontally Climbing Roses Prune in winter when dormant Flowers occur towards the ends of new growth in spring and summer Train canes horizontally to establish a framework As new lateral canes develop along the main canes train horizontally © Ron LaFond 2006

Climbing Roses Horizontal canes should be spaced about 12” to 18” apart In winter thin lateral growth to space 12” apart Head remaining lateral growth to 2 to 3 buds Periodically replace main horizontal canes Climbing Roses Horizontal canes should be spaced about 12” to 18” apart In winter thin lateral growth to space 12” apart Head remaining lateral growth to 2 to 3 buds Periodically replace main horizontal canes © Ron LaFond 2006

Saving Old and Overgrown Plants Rejuvenation Pruning Saving Old and Overgrown Plants Rejuvenation Pruning © Ron LaFond 2006

Rejuvenation Pruning A.K.A. Restoration Pruning Method used to restore the beauty and vigor of old, overgrown woody trees and shrubs Can be used to maintain a desired size of potentially large landscape shrubs Typically done over a series of pruning sessions – reducing stress to the plant Rejuvenation Pruning A.K.A. Restoration Pruning A method of pruning used to restore the beauty and vigor of old and overgrown woody trees and shrubs The method can be used to maintain a desired size of potentially large landscape shrubs It is typically done over a series of pruning sessions or seasons to reduce stress to the plant caused by the removal of large quantities of older and larger growth © Ron LaFond 2006

How Much First remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood Next begin to remove about 1/3 of the oldest, largest living branches On older, larger plants it may be necessary to remove less at one time This is a judgment call based on the gardener’s experience and knowledge of the plant How Much First remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood Next begin to remove about 1/3 of the oldest, largest living branches On older, larger plants it may be necessary to remove less at one time This is a judgment call based on the gardener’s experience and knowledge of the plant © Ron LaFond 2006

How Often Rejuvenation pruning is typically done over a series of at least three seasons In some cases 4 or more seasons may be required to complete the process To continue to maintain shrubs remove some of the oldest wood every year Always use good pruning techniques How Often Rejuvenation pruning is typically done over a series of at least three seasons In some cases 4 or more seasons may be required to complete the process To continue to maintain shrubs remove some of the oldest wood every year Always use good pruning techniques © Ron LaFond 2006

Shearing vs. Hand Pruning © Ron LaFond 2006

Shearing Fast, non-selective method of pruning It should be limited to plants with leaf sizes of less than 1” It should also be limited to plants that can recover fast enough to hide the sheared leaf stubble and exposed ends Shearing forces the growth of adventitious buds along stem internodes causing a heavy buildup of growth at stem-ends Shearing Fast, non-selective method of pruning It should be limited to plants with leaf sizes of less than 1” It should also be limited to plants that can recover fast enough to hide the sheared leaf stubble and exposed ends Shearing forces the growth of adventitious buds along stem internodes causing a heavy buildup of growth at stem-ends © Ron LaFond 2006

Shearing Continual shearing can lead to the buildup of exposed, dead or bare stem ends Very often, continual shearing will require rejuvenation pruning to restore a plant’s appearance Depending upon the type of plant and the frequency of shearing, rejuvenation pruning may need doing annually Shearing Continual shearing can lead to the buildup of exposed, dead or bare stem ends Very often, continual shearing will require rejuvenation pruning to restore a plant’s appearance Depending upon the type of plant and the frequency of shearing, rejuvenation pruning may need doing annually © Ron LaFond 2006

Shearing For smaller areas, consider using hand-shears – they typically do a better job than power hedge trimmers Or better still, consider hand pruning Shearing For smaller areas, consider using hand-shears – they typically do a better job than power hedge trimmers Or better still, consider hand pruning © Ron LaFond 2006

Hand Pruning A slower method Offers more selectivity Hand pruning allows removal of exactly what was intended Hand pruning eliminates the unsightly leaf damage, buildup of dead stem-ends and adventitious growth Hand pruning tends to reduce the frequencies of subsequent prunings Hand Pruning A slower method Offers more selectivity Hand pruning allows removal of exactly what was intended Hand pruning eliminates the unsightly leaf damage, buildup of dead stem-ends and adventitious growth Hand pruning tends to reduce the frequencies of subsequent prunings © Ron LaFond 2006

Pruning and Rejuvenation Ground Covers Pruning and Rejuvenation Ground Covers Pruning and Rejuvenation © Ron LaFond 2006

Ground Cover Basics Many different types of plants are used as ground covers in today’s landscapes In the truest sense of the definition, ground covers should be able to spread and root along the stems that come into contact with the soil Ground Cover Basics Many different types of plants are used as ground covers in today’s landscapes In the truest sense of the definition, ground covers should be able to spread and root along the stems that come into contact with the soil © Ron LaFond 2006

Ground Cover Basics Many plants that do not fit into this definition are still used as and are referred to as “ground covers” and in many cases can best be described as low fillers The methods of pruning described here are intended for use on the plant materials that comply with this definition of “ground cover” Ground Cover Basics Many plants that do not fit into this definition are still used as and are referred to as “ground covers” and in many cases can best be described as low fillers The methods of pruning described here are intended for use on the plant materials that comply with this definition of “ground cover” © Ron LaFond 2006

Restoration Over time many groundcovers can develop thick overgrowth This overgrowth is often a source of: Invertebrate pests – slugs, snails and various insects Vertebrate pests – rats and mice Diseases The overgrown vegetation often inhibits irrigation Restoration Over time many groundcovers can develop thick overgrowth This overgrowth is often a source of: Invertebrate pests – slugs, snails and various insects Vertebrate pests – rats and mice Diseases The overgrown vegetation often inhibits irrigation © Ron LaFond 2006

Restoration Many ground covers benefit from periodic scalping to reduce the overgrowth Before scalping groundcovers: Locate all irrigation heads Remove all debris Rotary brush-mowers are typically used Restoration Many ground covers benefit from periodic scalping to reduce the overgrowth Before scalping groundcovers all irrigation heads should be located and all loose debris removed Rotary brush-mowers are typically used for the process © Ron LaFond 2006

Rotary Brush-Mower Rotary Brush-Mower © Ron LaFond 2006

Restoration Periodic scalping increases light and air circulation producing healthier, more lush vegetation Periodic scalping also reduces the buildup of dead stubble at the edges of the ground cover planting Annual scalping can be done at the end of the dormant season – depending on the ground cover type and vigor Restoration Periodic scalping increases light and air circulation producing healthier, more lush vegetation Periodic scalping also reduces the buildup of dead stubble at the edges of the ground cover planting Annual scalping can be done at the end of the dormant season – depending on the ground cover type and vigor © Ron LaFond 2006

Maintenance Edging should be done at a steep angle to reduce the buildup of stubble along the edges Balanced fertilizers can be used once a year – after scalping or at the start of the growing season Some ground covers may require periodic feeding, others none at all Maintenance Edging should be done at a steep angle to reduce the buildup of stubble along the edges Balanced fertilizers can be used once a year – after scalping or at the start of the growing season Keep in mind some ground covers may require periodic feeding, others none at all © Ron LaFond 2006

Non-Traditional Ground Covers Some woody, spreading plants may fall into this category, i.e. junipers It is inappropriate to scalp such plants It is best not to edge these plants Prune what needs to be pruned using only hand pruners Non-Traditional Ground Covers Some woody, spreading plants may fall into this category, i.e. junipers It is inappropriate to scalp such plants It is best not to edge these plants Prune what needs to be pruned using only hand pruners © Ron LaFond 2006

Non-Traditional Ground Covers Thin out or head back selected branches by following them back into the plant and removing them at a logical point Always HIDE YOUR CUTS! This method maintains a softer appearance Non-Traditional Ground Covers Thin out or head back selected branches by following them back into the plant and removing them at a logical point Always HIDE YOUR CUTS! This method maintains a softer appearance © Ron LaFond 2006

The Right Tool For The Job Any job requires the use of the correct tool It is important to the correct pruning equipment when pruning any plant The Right Tool For The Job Any job requires the use of the correct tool It is important to the correct pruning equipment when pruning any plant © Ron LaFond 2006

Hand Pruners There are two common types of hand pruners Hand pruners are typically good for cuts up to about 3/4” in diameter – depending on the hardness of the wood Hand Pruners There are two common types of hand pruners Hand pruners are typically good for cuts up to about 3/4” in diameter – depending on the hardness of the wood © Ron LaFond 2006

Bypass Pruners Cuts with a “scissor” action with one blade passing by the other Bypass pruners tend to make cleaner cut Bypass Pruners Cuts with a “scissor” action with one blade passing by the other Bypass pruners tend to make cleaner cuts © Ron LaFond 2006

Anvil Pruners Cuts with one sharp blade coming down on to another Anvil pruners tend to crush stems Anvil Pruners Cuts with one sharp blade coming down on to another Anvil pruners tend to crush stems © Ron LaFond 2006

Loppers Loppers can be described as “long-handled” hand pruners Most loppers are good for cuts up to 1-1/2” diameter Larger loppers are made to handle cuts up to 2-1/2” diameter Handel lengths vary as well Loppers also provide an extended reach – even when cutting smaller diameter branches Loppers Loppers can be described as “long-handled” hand pruners Most loppers are good for cuts up to 1-1/2” diameter Larger loppers are made to handle cuts up to 2-1/2” diameter Handel lengths vary as well Loppers also provide an extended reach – even when cutting smaller diameter branches © Ron LaFond 2006

Loppers Anvil Lopper Bypass Lopper Loppers Left – bypass lopper Right – anvil lopper Anvil Lopper Bypass Lopper © Ron LaFond 2006

Hedge Shears Used to shear hedges Can also be used to quickly dead-head herbaceous perennials They can offer some selectivity when shearing When kept sharp and clean they leave clean, crisp cuts Hedge Shears Used to shear hedges Can also be used to quickly dead-head herbaceous perennials They can offer some selectivity when shearing When kept sharp and clean they leave clean, crisp cuts © Ron LaFond 2006

Hedge Shears Hedge Shears © Ron LaFond 2006

Pruning Saws Pruning saws vary in shape and size depending upon the task They typically have coarser blade – a carpenter’s saw doesn’t work Pruning Saws Pruning saws vary in shape and size depending upon the task They typically have coarser blade – a carpenter’s saw doesn’t work © Ron LaFond 2006

Pruning Saws Folding Limb Saw Bow Saw Surgery Saw Pruning Saws Left – bow saw Top right – folding limb saw Bottom right – surgery saw Bow Saw Surgery Saw © Ron LaFond 2006

Chain Saws These can make short work of larger limbs They are not intended to shear plants Wear all of the protective gear necessary Use the safely Gas or electric Chain Saws These can make short work of larger limbs They are not intended to shear plants Wear all of the protective gear necessary Use the safely Gas or electric © Ron LaFond 2006

Pole Pruners and Pole Saws These rarely work as a combination tool It is best to have separate pole pruners and pole saws They are both hand powered and gas or pneumatic The upside – they can greatly extend your reach The downside – it can get you too far away from the work – accuracy can suffer Pole Pruners and Pole Saws These rarely work as a combination tool It is best to have separate pole pruners and pole saws They are both hand powered and gas or pneumatic The upside – they can greatly extend your reach The downside – it can get you too far away from the work – accuracy can suffer © Ron LaFond 2006

Pole Pruners and Pole Saws Left – pole pruner head Center – pole saw head Right – pneumatic pole tools Pole Pruner Head Pneumatic Pole Tools Pole Saw Head © Ron LaFond 2006

Power Hedge Trimmers These should only be used on plants with small foliage and capable of quick recoveries They can cover a large area in a short time This type of shearing often triggers a response of adventitious shoots at the cut ends causing a thick, overgrown appearance Power Hedge Trimmers These should only be used on plants with small foliage and capable of quick recoveries They can cover a large area in a short time This type of shearing often triggers a response of adventitious shoots at the cut ends causing a thick, overgrown appearance © Ron LaFond 2006

Power Hedge Trimmers Probably one of the most misused tools in the landscape maintenance arsenal Possession does not require use Many times hand tools do a better job and reduce the need for constant shearing Power Hedge Trimmers Probably one of the most misused tools in the landscape maintenance arsenal Possession does not require use Many times hand tools do a better job and reduce the need for constant shearing © Ron LaFond 2006

Power Hedge Trimmers Power Hedge Trimmers © Ron LaFond 2006

Maintenance of Pruning Tools It is important to maintain all pruning equipment – manual and power Keeping tools sharp and clean will expand their life span Clean, sharp tools makes pruning tasks easier and safer Maintenance of Pruning Tools It is important to maintain all pruning equipment – manual and power Keeping tools sharp and clean will expand their life span Clean, sharp tools makes pruning tasks easier and safer © Ron LaFond 2006

Clean Equipment Clean all equipment before storing Remove sap build-up on pruners Remove rust Oil and lubricate tools before storing When storing power tools for extended periods – run out the fuel and change the oil Clean debris buildup that collects in power hedgers and chainsaws Clean Equipment Clean all equipment before storing Remove sap build-up on pruners Remove rust Oil and lubricate tools before storing When storing power tools for extended periods – run out the fuel and change the oil Clean debris buildup that collects in power hedgers and chainsaws © Ron LaFond 2006

Sharp Equipment It’s always best to go into a pruning job with sharp tools Files, sharpening stones and grinders can be used to maintain a cutting tools edge Find what works best for you and the specific tools Learn to sharpen your power hedge trimmers and chainsaws Sharp Equipment It’s always best to go into a pruning job with sharp tools Files, sharpening stones and grinders can be used to maintain a cutting tools edge Find what works best for you and the specific tools Learn to sharpen your power hedge trimmers and chainsaws © Ron LaFond 2006

Lubricants Keep pruning tools well oiled – to keep them working freely Keep power trimmers and chainsaws well lubricated – to reduce “freezing-up” Use the proper fuels and fuel-oil mixtures Equipment that works well is usually safer to handle Lubricants Keep pruning tools well oiled – to keep them working freely Keep power trimmers and chainsaws well lubricated – to reduce “freezing-up” Use the proper fuels and fuel-oil mixtures Equipment that works well is usually safer to handle © Ron LaFond 2006