Conditioners and Treatments Restructuring Hair

Conditioners Conditioners contain proteins or moisturizers to help restructure hair Provide strength and body (from protein) or protect against further damage (by adding moisturizer)

Structure of the Hair Heredity, health and diet determine the texture and structure of the hair Conditioners help give luster, shine and manageability as the damage hair grows out and is cut off Clients that use hair products and heat must use conditioners to maintain healthy hair

Basic types of Conditioners Rinse-Out: Applied and rinsed out within a few minutes, Use to soften cuticle and detangle Treatment or/ Repair: Applied for minutes, restores moisture and protein. Sometimes heat is applied. Leave-In: Applied to hair and not rinsed out. Lighter weight conditioner

Conditioner Ingredients Silicone- Reflects light and adds shine to the hair Humectants-Absorb or retain moisture (Decreases frizz in the hair) Quaternary ammonium compounds (Quats) – Attach to fibers and provide longer protection against damage hair

How Conditioners Affect the Hair Conditioners smooth the hair and help the cuticle lay down, allowing light to reflect Protein conditioners can penetrate the hair to reconstruct the texture Moisturizing conditioners attract moisture from the air and are absorbed in the cortex layer of the hair

Instant Conditioners Remain on hair for 1-5 minutes (Rinse-Out) or remain in hair (Leave-In) Contain humectants to add shine to dry, brittle hair and improve the appearance Average range for most conditioners are 3.5 – 6.0 on the Ph Scale Designed to lower the Ph of hair after chemical services

Treatment Conditioners- Moisturizers Treatment conditioners are heavier and creamier than rinse-out Application time is minutes Formulated to penetrate deeper into the hair shaft and last longer Most of these conditioners require the use of heat, to open the cuticle

Treatment Conditioners- Protein Formulated to slightly increase diameter of cuticle, adding more body to the hair Available in various strengths Concentrated protein conditioners usually have a brown appearance, improve strength and temporary close split ends Penetrate to the cortex and replace the keratin (protein) that has been lost Approve appearance, increase elasticity and equalizes porosity Not given after chemical services due to possible altering of the protein bonds

Treatment Conditioners Deep-Conditioning Also known as hair masks or packs Protein conditioners are heavy cream base moisturizers Penetrates the cuticle layer and enters the cortex Use when equal amount of moisturizing and protein are desired for treatment

Additional Conditioner Agents Thermal Protectors- Use before any thermal service to protect the hair from harmful effects of sources of heat Scalp Conditioners – Often cream base, used to soften and improve health of scalp. Contain moisturizing and emollient agents Medicated Scalp Lotions- Provided by a physician to heal scalp disorders Scalp Astringent Lotions- Reduces oil accumulation on the scalp. Used after scalp treatment and before styling

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