Color Theory What is color?

What is it? Color is the visual perception of the reflection of light.

Law of Color Only three colors, called primary “pure” colors Yellow, red and blue

Secondary Colors Two primary colors mixed in varying proportions = Orange Green Violet

Color Wheel 12 –hue color circle created from the three primary colors Name of a color referred to as tone or hue, identified by its position on the color wheel. Tone can be described as warm, cool or neutral.

Warm and Cool Colors Colors can be classified as either warms or cool colors

Complementary Colors Opposite one another on the color wheel. When mixed equally they neutralized each other

Characteristics of Color Color has three main characteristics Hue- identified based on it’s position on the color wheel Value/level degree of lightness or darkness of a color relative to itself and other colors Intensity- the vividness, brightness or saturation within its own level

Identifying Existing Color Contributing color + Artificial Color = Final color result

Melanin Two types of melanin in the cortex of the hair Eumelamin-black pigment Pheomelamin- red pigment

Gray Hair Melanocytes slow down production Strands lose color Heredity Different patterns of gray Percentages of gray vary with individuals

Applications for Gray 75-80% gray hair; adjust color formula to one level darker than desired level 25-30% gray; apply a color one level lighter than the desired shade

Gray Hair Pre-soften resistant hair or pre-lighten to increase porosity

Hair Color Chemistry Types of hair color Non-oxidative-non-reactive, direct dyes that only coat the surface of the hair shaft/ nothing to lighten and no chemical changes occur. Certified colors used in foods, drug and cosmetics last until shampooed out

Non-Oxidative Color Semi-permanent Last through several shampoos, dye molecules in solution capable of penetrating the cuticle layer, smaller in size, slightly alkaline.

Oxidative Hair Color Demi-uses low volume peroxide developer, only add color to the hair, cannot lift hair color

Permanent Hair Colors Combined with peroxide, chemical reaction occurs Small molecules penetrate the hair, oxidize in the cortex and link to form a permanent colored molecule

Permanent Hair Colors Also referred to as aniline derivative tints/ penetrate the cuticle and cortex, remain until they are removed by chemical means, hair grows out and is cut off. Main ingredient is paraphenylene diamine 24 hour patch test must Be given before any permanent Hair color application To ensure the client is not Allergic to the product

Lighteners Bleaching or de-colorizing, used when a lighter hair color is desired Involves the oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair. Hair goes through several stages of color changes as it is lightened

Types of Lighteners On-the-scalp lighteners Gentle can be applied directly on the scalp Oil lighteners pH 9 Cream lighteners pH 9 Off- the- scalp Powder bleach, alkaline salts and strong oxidizing agents. Stronger than oil or cream

Developers Hydrogen peroxide (H²O²) most common oxidizing agent Volume = amount of oxygen gas removed from solution. Also called developer

Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes Not professionally used Contain vegetable dyes Metallic salts and or combination of the two Henna Interfere with other professional beauty services Can be toxic to the client and the operator