Colour correction 2012

Emotions 0 Disown client 0 Pressure 0 Confusion 0 Where do you start Break it down 0 Write it down 0 Plan

Who has colour correction 0 Regular clients who want a change 0 Sun bleached 0 ‘do it yourself clients’ 0 Bands of colour 0 Light to dark 0 Change tone 0 Dark to blonde 0 Root glare 0 Over highlighted

How to get the information from a client 0 Open Questions 0 What 0 Who 0 When 0 Why 0 Listen 0 Body Language

What do we need to consider What you need to consider Texture/ porosity Is it realistic Can it be achieved ExpectationsTime factor Ability of the hairdresser Will it lastCost Under promise and over achieve- be realistic

Colour family's 0 Perfecton by colour fresh 0 Colour fresh 0 Colour touch 0 Special Mix 0 Sunlight's 0 Relights 0 Colour touch plus 0 Koleston perfect 0 Special blonde 0 Special mix 0 Magma 0 Blondor

Restoring depth and tone

Comb through Minimum fade- replace tone 0 Root application 0 Dampen hair gently and massage the colour 0 Working from crown area take a section of the hair and work the colour through the mid lengths and ends with a comb 0 Continue this method through the rest of the hair

Medium/maximum colour fade Colour touch 0 Section the hair from ear to ear 0 Apply colour from roots through to the mid lengths and ends using a flask 0 Work the colour into the hair using the hands 0 Rinse off excess colour after development time

Koleston rinse normal to porous hair, replace depth and tone ml tint 0 15ml 9%welloxon perfect 0 60ml warm water 0 Mix and apply on completion of regrowth application 0 Develop as normal

Anti fade colour bath replace depth and tone on very porous hair Stage one 0 15ml of tint 0 45ml warm water 0 Mix and apply on completion of re growth application 0 Develop as normal

Stage two 0 Mix 10ml 9% welloxon 0 40ml warm water 0 Apply to lenghts and ends 0 Develop for a further 5 minutes

Lightening techniques

Cleansing rinse 0 The hair is pre shampooed to open the cuticle 0 Blondor multi blonde powder and warm water are mixed together to a pouring consistency 0 Apply this to the hair with a sponge or a brush 0 The hair lightens over the development time 0 Shampoo and post treatment 0 The hair is now ready to be recovered 0 Good for removing unwanted tone

Cleansing shampoo 0 The hair is pre shampooed to open the cuticle 0 Mix 30 grams of blondor powder 0 30mls 6% welloxon 0 60mls warm water 0 15mls shampoo 0 This is applied to the hair with a brush or sponge to required areas 0 The hair lightens over the development time- visual up to 20 mins 0 Shampoo and apply post treatment 0 The hair can now be recoloured

Mild Lightener 0 Mix 1 part of blondor multi powder and 3 parts welloxon perfect pastel developer 0 This is applied to the hair with a brush to the required areas 0 The hair lightens over the development time before being shampooed away, 50 mins without heat or 25 mins with heat- but stay and visual check 0 Shampoo and post treatment 0 Hair can then be recolored

Removing bands 0 Mix 10/0 KP in normal way 0 Apply to dark areas 0 Develop up to 60 mins without heat (30 mins with) 0 When sufficient lift has been achieved (warm in tone), comb off excess with large tooth comb, leaving approximately 20% tint on the hair 0 Now colour to your target colour

Pre Pigmentation Perfecton (under colour fresh) Colour touch (under colour touch) Koleston (under Koleston) 10/3/340/ /43 /45 0/ /440/ Neat to diluted 40mls 5-15 mins 5-10mls- 60mls 1.9%5-30cm to 60mls warm water Natural- Minimumvibrant red- Max Rich natural- min-medDeep brown- med-max

Problems and causes ProblemCauseRemedy Colour to dark Patchy dark Too red Patchy light Colour to light Colour to ash (green) Not light enough White hair not covered Not red enough Root glare Colour banding Bleach too warm(orange)

Problem CauseRemedy Colour to dark Wrong colour choice Left on to long Too low peroxide Cleansing shampoo Patchy dark Porous hair Incorrect application Mild lightener 10/0 Too red Depth to light To high peroxide To much tone Post pigment treatment Cleansing rinse Patchy light Application unevenRe apply and tone Colour to light Left on to long Incorrect application (over lapped) Pre pig and tone Colour to ash (green) Wrong tone used Not pre pigmented when going from light to dark Post pigment with red Cleansing rinse Not light enough Wrong peroxide Not left on long enough Reapply 10/0 White hair not covered Not applied correctly Wrong base Re apply Not red enough Wrong depth Wrong tone Colour applied on to darker depth Post treatment Root glare Coverage over grey Incorrect application Reapply Cleanse ends Colour banding Overlapped Wrong colour used on previous root application 10/0 Mild lighter Bleach too warm(orange) Not left on long enoughRe lightener Add blue to it

Case studies 7/010/0 Target colour 6/43 6/ 0 6/7 4/0 Target colour 6/7

7/010/0 Target shade 6/43 Pre pig ends with Koleston 0/43 (30cm) After 15 mins blot dry Then apply 6/43 20 vol roots to ends Or colour touch mid lenghts and ends Or anti fade colour bath

6/ 0 6/7 4/0 Target Shade 6/7 Mild lightener on the 4/0 Then apply 6/7 20 vol KP or C.T 1.9% on roots On ends apply 6/71 C.T and 0/88 SM to kill undertones