COLLARS

COLLAR Definition A collar is a decorative and functional feature on the neckline of a garment. As a decorative feature, the collar frames the face and enhances both the garment and the wearer. It is both decorative and functional as well as providing warmth to the wearer. Collars may be cut on the bias, on the lengthwise or crosswise grain depending on the pattern or texture of the fabric and the effect desired.

Classification The collars are broadly classified as: Separate set-in collars such as peter pan and mandarin collar Collars developed in part or whole in one with the waist such as the shawl collar. Two-piece notched collar with a lapel and separate collar.

Depending on the shape of the collars they are classified as: Flat fitting collar with a concave curve: it rolls over from the neckline seam or lies flat on the body. Rolled collar with a convex shape: it has a stand. A stand is the material under the collar at the centre back which extends upwards from the garment neckline to the point where the collar rolls or folds over. Stand up collar has no roll back such as or mandarin Nehru or Chinese collar Shirt waist collar is a rolled collar attached to a straight or shaped stand up neckband.

CONVERTIBLE COLLAR This is a rolled collar. It can be worn open or closed.

Tailored collar (Basic 2 piece notched collar) A notched collar is a two piece collar that can only be worn open. It consists of a lapel or reverse, which is actually cut in one with the garment, and a collar, which meets the lapel resulting in a notch. Notched collars are used in all garment categories from tailored coats and suits to evening wear. Single breasted style with low closing Double Breasted Style Single breasted type with high closing

MANDARIN COLLAR This is a standing band that extends up from the neckline and may be designed to meet at the centre front overlap or to end somewhere between the shoulder and centre front of the garment.

WING COLLAR It is a tailored shirt collar with spread points and is stitched on a neckband. It is also called dandy collar.

PETER PAN COLLAR It is a one piece or two piece flat collar with rounded ends at centre front or at both centre front and centre back. It is also called Buster brown, Eton or Dutch collar. It may have flat look, just enough stand to conceal the neckline seam or a high stand at centre back with stand variations in between depending upon the effect desired.

BERTHA COLLAR It is a large cape-like collar falling over the shoulders. Bertha collar, a wide, flat, round collar, often of lace or sheer fabric, worn with a low neckline in the Victorian era and resurrected in the 1940s.

SAILOR COLLAR It is a large square collar hanging in back. Front tapers to a ‘V’. it may also be called a middy collar.

REVERSE It is another name for lapel. It is actually an extension of the front opening of the garment which folds back revealing the facing.

SHAWL COLLAR The shawl is a collar and reverse cut in one piece with the front waist and can only be worn open. There are many variations of the shawl collar from narrow to cape and the collar edge may be notched or styled as desired.

POLO NECK (UK) or TURTLE NECK (US) It is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting, round, and high collar that folds over and covers the neck. It can also refer to a type of neckline, the style of collar itself, or be used as an adjective ("polo necked").

Elizabethan Collars It has been told that proud Queen Elizabeth sponsored this fashion for collars which would conceal the back of the neck because she had a blemish and wished to conceal it. It became conventional attire during her reign along with the wide stiff ruff.

Rippled or Ruffled Collar The rippled collar cut on a circular flare principle, is youthful and pleasing. If collar closes at center front, no center back seam is needed. Circular ruffles may be introduced to plain round collars, or small godets set into the style line at intervals.

CASCADING COLLAR

SLEEVES A sleeve is a section of a garment that covers all or part of the arm.

Classification There are two major classifications of sleeves: A mounted sleeve or a sleeve set into an armhole A sleeve cut in one with the waist of the garment Regardless of the classification sleeves can be short or long, narrow or wide. Some sleeves are designed to add width to the shoulder, others are designed to minimize the shoulder.

A mounted sleeve or a sleeve set into an armhole Within the two classifications there are many variations and sub variations: A mounted sleeve or a sleeve set into an armhole Set-in (normal armhole): puffed, petal and bishop sleeve Raglan Drop shoulder A sleeve cut in one with the waist of the garment. Kimono with gusset Dolman or Bat Wing

RAGLEN SLEEVE

KIMONO SLEEVE

DOLMAN SLEEVE

PUFFED SLEEVE

BUTTERFLY SLEEVE

BISHOP SLEEVE

CIRCULAR CAP SLEEVE

BELL SLEEVE

LANTERN SLEEVE

SET-IN SLEEVE

ANGEL SLEEVE

ROLL-UP SLEEVE

COWL SLEEVE

CAP SLEEVE