Basic Houppelande patterns Men’s or Women’s Houppelandes By THL Charles Pierre de Bourbon

Measurements length of houppelande – how long do you want it to be shoulder to shoulder measurement single shoulder measurement neck measurement Armsceye measurement (make loose) length of bent arm measurement

Draw a vertical line the desired length of the houppelande plus 4 inches Draw a horizontal line from the top of the vertical line 2 1 1

3. Measure down the vertical line 4 inches and place a mark 4. Draw an inverted arch from that point up to the horizontal line that is the length of your shoulder plus one fourth of the circumference of your neck 3 4

5. Draw line from the top of the arch to the edge of your fabric that is the length of your houpelande. 6. Move one fourth of the way along the arch and 1 fourth of the way between the bottom of both lines and make a point…do this twice 7. Connect the bottoms of all four points to create a large arch which will become the bottom of your houppelande 8. Cut two pieces like this…then cut two more pieces using this pattern turned over 5 6 6 7

F E F E C B B C A A D D Sew sides A together, Sew sides B together leaving ½ the circumference of your arm open from the top…do the same for side C Sew sides E together leaving the measurement for the neck unsewn, repear for sides F

Sleeves 12. Draw a vertical line the length that you want the sleeve to be from your shoulder 13. From the top of the vertical line draw a horizontal straight line that is ½ the circumference of your arm measurement 14. From the edge of the horizontal line draw and inverted arch the length of your bent arm measurement (see left for example) 15. Draw a sideways arch joining the bottom of the vertical line to the open end of the inverted arc. (see illustration at left) 16. Cut four of these with two facing. 13 14 12 15

18 17. Sew sides A together 18. Along the top of each sleeve measure halfway between the seem and the end of the top line and make a point 19. Do the same thing in other direction. 20. Form one point measure down 4 inches and draw a sideways “S” curve with the point 4 inches down being the lower point and the point on the opposite side being the upper point of the “S” curve. (use diagram at right for reference) 21 Then sew sides B together 19 B B A A 20

22. Sew sleeves to houpelande so that point A on the sleeve is lined up with the shoulder seam…repeat for otherside

Basic Collar A 23. Set in your collar in the unsewn area at the top of the houpelande…it will vary for man and women: Men will have a standing collar of some description, though sometimes it does have “V” neckline Women usually always had a “V” lined neck with a lapel-like collar B

Belting the houpelande Women’s houpelands belted under the bosom at the point of their collars, while a man’s houpeland typically belted at the waist.