Shampoo How to formulate solutions

Lesson Topics Shampoo Market Overview Consumer Problems Surfactant Science Formulating a shampoo Testing

Lesson Objectives Shampoo Market Overview –Introduce the shampoo market Consumer Problems –Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix Surfactant Science –Discuss surfactant properties –How they are relevant to cosmetics Formulating a solution –Dissect a shampoo formula –Explaining what ingredients are used and why Testing –Explain how to test a shampoo

Shampoo

Shampoos Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and leave it a more manageable state Solutions - one of the simplest types of cosmetic formulas

Shampoo Market Overall Market –Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion worldwide –Amount of money spent in US on Shampoo/conditioner $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)* *Does not include Walmart

US Top Brands BRAND Pantene – P&G Head & Shoulders – P&G Herbal Essences – P&G Suave - Unilever Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal Tresemme – Alberto Culver Matrix (Biolage) – L’Oreal L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal Dove - Unilever Private Label John Frieda - Kao $ MARKET SHARE *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009

US Top Brands BRAND Suave - Unilever Pantene – P&G VO5 – Alberto Culver Herbal Essences – P&G Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal Head & Shoulders – P&G L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal Tresemme – Alberto Culver Units sold (millions) *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009

Shampoo Market Types of shampoo (marketing) –Normal –Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc) –Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore) –Strengthening –Curl –2 in 1 –Color treated –Color Enhancing –Baby (tear-free) –Natural

Shampoo Market Specialty –Anti-dandruff –Anti-lice –Hair loss treatments Significantly Different –Powdered shampoos –No-rinse shampoo –Co-washing

Consumer Problems Clean hair / oil removal Moisturize Easier to comb Prevent frizz Shine Volume Medicated –Anti-dandruff –Anti-lice –Hair loss

Addressing the problems Problem Clean hair / oil removal Moisturize Easier to comb Prevent frizz Shine Volume Medicated –Anti-dandruff –Anti-lice –Hair loss Technology Surfactants Conditioning agents –Anti-dandruff agents –Acaracides –Minoxidyl

Surfactant Science

Surfactants Defined –Molecules compatible with water & oil –Surfactant = Surface Active Agent

Surfactant Molecule Hydrophilic = Lipophobic Hydrophobic = Lipophilic

Surfactant in solution Reduces surface tension Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil)‏ Forms micelles to suspend particles

Surfactant Typical surfactant mixture –Surfactant is mixed with oil –Lipophilic tails orient with oil –Polar heads orient with water –Micelles are created Micelle formation Critical Micelle Concentration

Surfactant Solutions Depending on concentration different structures are formed Simple shampoos are basically surfactant solutions (no oils)‏

Surfactant Structures

Surfactant Functions Key in Shampoos –Cleaning / Detergency –Wetting –Dispersing –Foaming –Thickening –Conditioning Other functions –Emulsification –Solubilization –Penetration enhancement –Antimicrobial activity –Opacification

Detergency Two types of “dirt” in hair –Solid particulate –Oily deposits Solid particulates –From pollution, hair products –Adhere via Van der Waals forces –Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of surface

Detergency How surfactants remove liquids –Remove dirt & grease from surfaces –Mechanism Surfactant orients along oil/water interface This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution Rinse water removes the oil micelle

Wetting Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water Water with surfactant can spread better on the hair Without SurfactantWith Surfactant

Dispersing Particles are suspended in the shampoo / water solution They are removed upon rinsing

Foaming Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of liquid films Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal of dirt –Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really mean the product cleans better

Thickening Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected by –Concentration of surfactant –Salt concentration –pH

Types of Surfactants Anionic –Negatively charged Amphoteric (Zwitterionic)‏ –capable of both positive & negative charges Cationic –Positively charged Nonionic –No charge

Anionic Surfactants These are the primary shampoo surfactants Alkyl Sulfates –Examples - SLS Alkyl Ether Sulfates –Example – ALES Alpha – Olefin Sulfonates –Examples

Anionic Surfactants Other types –Sulfosuccinates –Alkylbenzene Sulfonates –Acyl Methyltaurates –Acyl Sarcosinates –Acyl Isethionates –Acyl Polypeptide Condensates –Monoglyceride Sulfates –Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates

Anionics Why use them? –Excellent detergency –Relatively inexpensive –Good foaming –Highly stable Drawbacks –Can be irritating –Drying to hair

Amphoteric Surfactants Can have a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the solution Zwitterionic Types –Cocamidopropyl Betaine –Cocoamphopropionate –Sodium Lauraminopropionate

Amphoteric Surfactants Why use them? –Good Detergency –Less Irritating than anionics –Helps thicken system –Helps improve foam Drawbacks –More expensive –Do not foam well enough on their own

Non Ionic Surfactants Surfactant molecules with no charge Types –Fatty Alkanolamides Lauramide DEA Cocamide DEA –Amine Oxides Lauramine Oxide Stearamine Oxide

Non Ionic Surfactants Why use them? –Foam enhancer –Reduce irritation –Increase viscosity –Conditioning effect –Anti-static effect –Solubilize fragrances –Baby Shampoos PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate Drawbacks –Safety issues –More expensive –Do not foam well on their own

Cationics Positively charged surfactant molecules Types –Cetrimonium Chloride –Stearylalkonium Chloride Not used for shampoos –Don’t clean as well –Don’t rinse as well –Don’t foam as well

Shampoo Formulations

Shampoo Characteristics Aesthetics –Appearance Clear Pearlized –Thickness (Viscosity)‏ Foam –Creamy, rich to thin & loose Harshness Conditioning effects

Basic types of Shampoos Normal Volumizing Moisturizing 2 in 1 Baby Natural

Shampoo Performance

Shampoo Formula Water Surfactant Secondary Surfactant Preservative Conditioning agent Color Fragrance Feature Ingredients Specialty ingredients

Shampoo Formula Secondary Surfactant –Modify viscosity –Improve foam –Reduce irritation Aesthetic ingredients –Opacifying agent –Clarifying agents –Colorants

Shampoo Formula Conditioning agents –Silicones –Cationic polymers Preservatives Fragrance Feature Ingredients Formula Adjusters –Acid –Chelating agents

Cosmetic Formula sheet

Normal Shampoo Formula

Activity of Ingredients Many raw materials are sold diluted % Solids = Raw material – water Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9% solid ALS % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids

Volumizing Shampoo Formula

Volumizing Shampoo Higher level of surfactant Volumizing polymer (optional)‏ –Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride

Moisturizing Shampoo Formula

Moisturizing Shampoo More gentle detergents Added conditioning ingredients –Polyquaternium-7 –Dimethicone Copolyol Pearlized – (optional)‏ –Glycol Stearate

2-in-1 Shampoo Formula

2 in 1 Shampoo Added conditioning ingredients –Dimethicone –Polyquaternium-10 Pearlized –Glycol Stearate Stabilizing agent (optional)‏ –Carbomer

Baby Shampoo Formula

Baby Shampoo More mild detergent system Compromise qualities for mildness –Foam –Detergency –Conditioning Minimize fragrance

Natural Shampoo Formula

Natural Shampoo Sulfate free detergent “Gentle” preservatives –No Parabens –No DMDM Hydantoin Natural extract ingredients Synthetic fragrance free?

Making the batch

Equipment Beakers Mixers Thermometer Stand Hot plate Scale Weigh boats Plastic wrap

Formulating Equipment

Shampoo Batching tips Cover batch with plastic wrap Record time, temp, changes Pre-weigh ingredients Weigh container prior to making batch –Compensate for water loss Take specification readings at the end –Adjust as needed –

Shampoo testing QA/QC Tests Performance Tests

Shampoo testing QA/QC Tests Specifications –Viscosity –pH –Appearance –Odor

Shampoo testing Use Tests –Try product yourself –Panel testing

Shampoo testing Tress testing –Combing –Feel / Softness –Shine

Shampoo testing Foam testing –Blender –Shake test

Shampoo testing Safety testing –Patch testing –Irritation tests

Shampoo Stability testing

Shampoo Summary Shampoo Market Overview –Big compared to other cosmetics Consumer Problems –Cleansing, conditioning primary problems Surfactant Science –Makes oil & water more compatible –Responsible for cleaning hair Formulating shampoos –6 types of shampoos Testing –Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests

Shampoos