Chapter 27 Nail Tips and Wraps

“The more you express gratitude for what you have, the more you will have to express gratitude for.” – Zig Ziglar

Objectives Identify the supplies needed for nail tip application and explain why they are needed. Name and describe the types of nail tips available and the importance of proper fit. List the types of fabrics used in nail wraps and explain the benefits of each. Demonstrate the stop, rock, and hold method of applying nail tips. Demonstrate the Nail Tip Application Procedure.

Objectives (continued) Demonstrate the Nail Tip Removal Procedure. Demonstrate the Nail Wrap Application Procedure. Demonstrate the differences between performing the Two-Week and the Four-Week Fabric Wrap Maintenance Procedures. Demonstrate how to remove fabric wraps. LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?) The cosmetology industry experienced great expansion when the first acrylic artificial nail extensions were introduced in the 1970s. By the '80s, manufacturers had developed products which created very natural-looking artificial nails. It was at that time that the nail industry became the fastest growing area in the entire field of cosmetology; it is still growing today. The professionals who fine-tune their skills with artificial nails earn a very good income. Today's lesson explores the various techniques and procedures used to apply natural- looking artificial nail enhancements. These procedures are beneficial to those who cannot grow strong natural nails of the desired length. Artificial nails may be used to mend or conceal broken or damaged nails; improve the appearance of very short or badly shaped nails; help overcome the habit of nail biting; protect nails against splitting or breakage. Advanced nail techniques such as wrapping with linen, silk, or fiberglass can be used over natural nails to make them stronger, as well.

Advanced Nail Techniques Nail tips: A plastic, pre-molded nail shaped from a tough polymer made from acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) Nail wraps: A method of securing a layer of fabric or paper on and around the nail tip or natural nail to ensure its strength and durability ADVANCED NAIL TECHNIQUES. One of the first things we notice about someone is their hands and fingernails. With the technology of the twenty-first century, there is no reason for anyone to have unattractive nails. There are many ways that you, as a practitioner skilled in nail technologycan help your clients have better-looking hands. NAIL TIPS: Plastic, premolded nails shaped from a tough polymer made either from ABS or tenite acetate. Tips are often used with another service such as a wrap or an overlay. (Overlays are made from methacrylate liquid and powder) NAIL WRAPS: Nail enhancements made by using nail-sized pieces of cloth or paper bonded to the top of the nail plate with wrap resin. (Resins are made from cyanoacrylate monomers.) Wraps are used to repair or strengthen natural nails or to create nail extensions. OPENING ACTIVITY: Divide the class into groups of three to five students. Have them brainstorm about common problems they can think of that are associated with wearing artificial nails (for example: lifting, breaking, peeling, etc.) Ask for a volunteer scribe to come to the front and record the groups’ findings on the board or a flip chart. Leave the list of problems posted and explain to students that you will be coming back to them later.

Materials and Supplies Abrasives: used to shape nails Buffer block: used to buff nails Tip adhesive: used to bond tip to nail Tip cutter: used to clip nail tips Nail dehydrator: used to remove surface moisture

Materials and Supplies (continued)

Nail Tips Tips have a well that serves as the point of contact with the nail plate. The position stop is the point where the free edge of the natural nail meets the tip. Full well Partial well Well-less

Nail Wraps Nail wrap resin: used to coat and secure fabric wraps to the natural nail or tip Resins made from cyanoacrylate, a specialized acrylic monomer with excellent adhesion properties

Fabric Wraps Silk: thin natural material with a tight weave that becomes transparent when resin is applied Linen: closely woven, heavy material that resins do not penetrate easily; colored polish required Fiberglass: thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave Paper: have no strength or durability

Other Supplies Wrap resin accelerator: also known as an activator; acts as the dryer that speeds up the hardening process of the resin Miscellaneous tools: wrap resin, nail buffer and files, small scissors, plastic, tweezers Option: Dip powder and adhesive enhancements OTHER SUPPLIES DIP POWDER AND ADHESIVE ENHANCEMENTS: To further strengthen a fabric wrap, some clients prefer a method called dip powder and adhesive enhancements. For this technique, a fine polymer powder is sprinkled or spooned onto the nail over a completed fabric wrap. Several layers of the dip powder can be applied. Any style of adhesive or resin can be used. Usually, an activator is used to ensure drying. Many clients who normally cannot wear monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements because of skin sensitivity or allergy enjoy this service for the additional strength and wearability it provides.

Other Supplies (continued)

Maintenance Maintenance – term used for when the enhancement needs to be serviced after two or more weeks from the initial application Uses To fill or back fill To structurally correct the nail (rebalance) MAINTENANCE: Nail wraps must have consistent maintenance after the initial appliation.

Maintenance (continued)

Wrap Repair Stress strip: fabric cut to 1/8 inch in length and applied to weak point Repair patch: piece of fabric cut to completely cover a crack or break in the nail WRAP REPAIR: Small pieces of fabric can be used to strengthen a weak point in the nail or to repair a break in the nail.

Wrap Removal Wraps must be removed carefully to avoid damage to the nail plate. Enhancement is immersed in acetone.

Wrap Removal (continued) Wrap melts away and the softened material is gently removed with a wooden pusher. A manicure should follow wrap removal to rehydrate the nail and cuticle.

Practical Procedures Pre- and Post-Service Nail Tip Application Nail Tip Removal Nail Wrap Application Two-Week Maintenance Four-Week Maintenance Fabric Wrap Removal NOTE: The Pre- and Post-Service Procedures have not been reproduced in the Course Management Guide Lesson Plan since they are published in the textbook. The instructor should decide if they are to be repeated in the practical class. Procedure sheets are found in LP 25.0. NOTE: Explain to students when the Practical Class will occur (perhaps now). Tell them that you will hand out procedure sheets for each of the following procedures and that they will follow along as you review the steps. They will put away the sheets during the actual demonstration, performed either by you or by the applicable Milady DVD (to ensure consistency between demonstrations). The standard Pre- and Post-Service Procedures are not duplicated in this lesson plan.

Summary and Review What are the supplies, in addition to your basic manicuring table, that you need for nail tip application? What types of nail tips are available and why is proper fit important? What types of fabrics are used in nail wraps? Explain the benefits of each wrap type. Describe the stop, rock, and hold method of applying nail tips. SUMMARY AND REVIEW  Nail tips are a great way for clients to wear long and glamorous-looking nails. Due to the nature of the procedure, numerous follow-up maintenance services are needed, which results in return business and increased revenue for the practitioner. Care should be taken throughout the procedure to avoid damage to the natural nail. 1. What are the supplies, in addition to your basic manicuring table, that you need for nail tip application? Answer: The supplies needed for nail tip application are abrasive boards, buffer block, nail tip adhesive, nail tips, tip cutter, and nail dehydrator. 2. What types of nail tips are available and why is proper fit important? Answer: The nail tips available are partial well, full well, and well-less. Tips that do not cover the natural nail from sidewall to sidewall can cause the tip to crack at the sides or split down the middle. 3. What types of fabrics are used in nail wraps? Answer: The three types of fabric nail wraps are silk, linen, and fiberglass. 4. Explain the benefits of each wrap type? Answer: Silk becomes transparent when resin is applied; it is lightweight and has a smooth appearance. Linen is heavier and thicker and, therefore, is the strongest wrap fabric. Fiberglass is easy to use and easy for an adhesive to penetrate, which improves adhesion; it becomes durable with the resin activator. 5. Describe the stop, rock, and hold method of applying nail tips. Answer: The steps of the method are: Find the stop against free edge at 45-degree angle. Rock the tip on slowly. Hold tip in place 5 to 10 seconds until adhesive has hardened.

Summary and Review (continued) Describe the Nail Tip Application Procedure. Describe the Nail Tip Removal Procedure. Describe the Nail Wrap Application Procedure. Explain the differences between Two- and Four-Week Maintenance Procedures. Describe how to remove fabric wraps and what to avoid. 6. Describe the Nail Tip Application Procedure. Answer: The steps of the Nail Tip Application Procedure are: Pre-service, remove polish, push back eponychium, remove cuticle tissue, buff natural nail to remove shine, size tips, apply dehydrator, apply adhesive, slide on tips, trim nail tip, blend tip, shape nail, and proceed with desired service. 7. Describe the Nail Tip Removal Procedure. Answer: The steps in the Nail Tip Removal Procedure are: Soak tips in acetone, slide off tips with a wooden pusher, and buff nail. 8. Describe the Nail Wrap Application Procedure. Answer: The steps in the Nail Wrap Application Procedure are: Pre-service, remove polish, clean nails, push back eponychium, remove oily shine, apply dehydrator, apply nail tips if desired, cut adhesive-backed fabric and apply to nail, apply wrap resin, trim fabric, apply wrap resin, apply wrap resin activator, apply second coat of wrap resin and second coat of resin activator, shape and refine nails, buff wrap nail, remove traces of oil, and apply polish. 9. Explain the differences between Two- and Four-Week Maintenance Procedures. Answer: At the Two-Week Fabric Wrap Maintenance Procedure, the nails are buffed and wrap resin is applied to regrowth area and the entire nail. At the Four-Week Fabric Wrap Maintenance Procedure, all steps in the two-week maintenance are completed, plus wrap fabric is cut and applied to the regrowth area (slightly overlapping old wrap fabric). 10. Describe how to remove fabric wraps and what to avoid. Answer: The steps to remove fabric wraps are: Pre-service, soak nails in acetone, slide off softened nail wraps with a wooden pusher, buff natural nail, and condition skin. Avoid damaging the nail plate.

You have completed one unit of study toward course completion. Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.