Chapter 7 Trims, Leather, and Fur
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Trims are the necessary supplies used to finish and adorn both garments and accessories. Threads, formed by spinning and twisting fibers together, hold garments together. Thread quality is vital to durability. A variety of threads are used: –Cotton –Core spun and spun polyester –Continuous filament –Multifilament and monofilament –Silk and embroidery thread
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Elastics are used in swimwear, underwear, Activewear, pull on pants and skirts and stretch cuffs. Types of elastic used: –Knitted elastic –Knitted spandex –Narrow braided elastic –Webbed elastic –Woven elastic –Elastic thread
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Interfacings are layers of fabric placed directly under the garment fabric for support and structuring. Types of interfacings: –Nonwoven –Knit –Woven
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Narrow fabrics include narrow lace, ribbon, braid, decorative bands, piping, and cording. They can be functional or decorative and include: –Banding –Beading –Binding –Edging –Galloon –Insertion –Medallions
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Laces are made on four types of machines: –Barmen –Leaver –Raschel –Venice Embroidery, another decorative trim, is made as either continuous Schiffli or in pieces on Framework machines. Woven ribbons and Passementerie (braids and cords that are either woven or knitted and heavier than ribbon) are other trims.
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Fasteners consist of zippers, buttons and hook and loop fasteners. Zippers, made practical in 1912, are made in three basic types: –Polyester coil –Molded –Metal Those types are sold in three basic forms: –Continuous –Closed end – Separating
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Buttons Buttons serve both functional and fashion interests. Originally made from real pearl, today less than 10% of all buttons sold in the United States are made of natural materials. Most buttons today are made of a variety of plastics, with a small number of metal and natural (pearl, shell, wood, leather, porcelain and bone).
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey Trims Hook and loop fasteners, or Velcro, can be used on shoes, apparel and many other applications. Belts are manufactured in two types: –Rack to retailers –Cut up to apparel manufacturers Labels are used to identify garments and hangtags are designed to draw attention to the garment.
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey The Leather Industry Leathers are preserved animal hides and skins, byproducts of the meat industry. Leather processing, while improved, still takes much longer than the production of fiber and fabrics. Leather processing can take up to 6 months, requires extensive equipment and skilled labor and consists of three steps: –Pretanning, a cleaning process –Tanning, a preserving process –Finishing, which produces thickness, moisture and esthetic appeal
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey The Fur Industry Fur, the hairy coat of mammals, is long associated with wealth and prestige. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, PETA, has raised awareness about the use of fur in fashionable clothing. Fur sources are from all six continents, although mainly North America Fur farming is also a major source of pelts.
Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e© 2005 Pearson Education, Inc. Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey The Fur Industry Fur processing takes four steps: –Preliminary cleaning and softening –Fleshing, or cleaning and stretching –Leathering, a tanning process –Finishing, to condition Marketing for farmers and trappers is held via auction in the following major centers: –New York –Frankfurt –St. Petersburg –Montreal