LESSON – 14 KNOWLEDGE OF ACCESSORIES USED IN SHIRT

INTRODUCTION Accessories means trimming material used in shirt – different kinds – depends on types of shirt – type of fabric used – style of shirt – type of finishing etc. TYPES OF ACCESSORIES Threadbuttonelastic buckleeyeletlacing labelshoulder padsinterlining

THREADS Threads made from flexible yarns – these yarns made from fibers, filament, bonded cord or monofilaments – For industrial or domestic sewing threads, natural threads ( cotton, linen, silk ) or synthetic threads ( polyester ) are used TYPES OF THREAD 1. Strand : Twist or bond two or more than two fibers or filaments together – ( continue…)

2. Multifilament yarn : two or more than two strands used – twist or bonded – 3. Monofilament yarn : made with special treatment - only one filament used - What is ply ? The number of strands used to make a yarn e.g. 2 ply, 3 ply, 4 ply or mono cord

Different finishing process used on thread are : 1. Soft finished : for smoothness – lubricate the threads- have good sewing ability 2. Mercerization : deep the threads in costic soda solution – process on cotton – have good durability, shining, smooth surface – can dye ( continue… )

Industrial threads : The thread have ticket no. – available in form of cone, parallel cone, tube, spools or broad based plastic tubes Ticket no.Ply * 60,70,80,90, ,140,160 * 20, 24, 30, 36, , 60, 70, 80, , 120

Ticket no.Ply *12, 16, 20, 24, 4 30, 36, 40, 50 * 30, 36, 40, Industrial threads must have uniform – evenness, smoothness, elasticity and strength

BUTTON Used for closing – basic and decorative purpose – different size and shape – many design – Kinds of button :1. sew on button : have two or four holes – vary in thickness and shapes – stitch with the help of thread – by button stitch machine or by hand – size are define by ligns – 2. button with shank : button have shank on bottom – self mould – made from metal, cloth ( continue..)

3. Reinforced button : have two or four parts – button passed through fabric – can fix with the help of snap attaching machine

ELASTIC Made from rubber or synthetic material - different in size – core, wrapped, braided or woven Used in woven or knitted material – in shirt, use on sleeve hem or bottom hem

BUCKLE Have different size and shapes – square, rectangle or round in shape – in centre, a bar is given – buckles are with prong or without prong used for closing of different parts of a shirt – on belt, sleeve, shoulder, pocket used to fix the tab

INTERLINING For stiffness on front placket, collar, cuff, etc. Two types of interlining : 1. Woven interlining : two types – fusible and non fusible – fusible have layer of thermoplastic – melt by heating - fixed – non fusible

INTERLINING 2. Non woven interlining : fusible – special process made on tiny fibers –paper fusing--

SHOULDER PAD Shoulder pad : used in over garments like jacket, coat – made from cotton fibers or sponge

LABELS LABELS Labels : for decoration or basic purpose – fix on pocket, placket, or collar