Illustration for the long wave theory In detail, see pdf-file “Long wave theory” Nikolay Plink (RSHU) Alfredo Izquierdo (UCA)

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Presentation transcript:

Illustration for the long wave theory In detail, see pdf-file “Long wave theory” Nikolay Plink (RSHU) Alfredo Izquierdo (UCA)

Main fearures of the wave profil wave crest wave trough wave crest wave trough Wind direction = Wavelength h = wave height

Orbital motion is not affected or affected by sea-bottom Wind waves: shallow and deep water waves

Relationships between level and velocity in progressive wave (impedance ratio)

Study area Southern-Chinese Sea Bottom of the Southern- Chinese Sea

3d - image of the bottom Shallow water of the shelf zone Deep trench Steeply inclined continental slope Вьетнам Филиппины Китай

Case А Due to influence of refraction and specific features of continental slope maximum concentration of wave energy is observed at the Eastern coast of Vietnam.

Case В In the beginning of the wave propagation process at deep area with relatively constant depth the wave energy is spreading in all directions uniformly. However in the shelf zone refraction will result in redistribution of wave energy and its concentration at local part of coast.

Case С Refraction assist to formation of boundary waves at the shelf zone of Vietnam and Philippine

Presentation of standing wave as a sum of two progressive waves movinig in opposite diractions

Structure of standing wave

Free oscillation in the shelf zone