Neil Watson The Body Shop Neil.watson@thebodyshop.com Skin Products Neil Watson The Body Shop Neil.watson@thebodyshop.com

Formulating cleansing products Formulating moisturising products Control of body odour and sweat Sun Protection Removal of unwanted hair

Cleansing products Product types Soap. (Superfatted soap, Transparent/ Glycerin soap, Translucent/ pearlised soap, Combo Bars (Dove Beauty Bar, Syndet bars.) Emulsions. (Creams, Lotions, Milk, Cold Cream, Rinse –off emulsions (foaming cleansers)). Liquid synthetic detergents. Gels. (Surfactant, basic viscous lotion). Wipes. Masks. Mousse. Scrubs. Toners.

Skin types Dry skin Normal/Combi skin Oily skin

Moisturising Products 14 April 2017

Formulating moisturising products Emollients An emollient is a material which, when applied to the skin makes it feel soft and smooth. Humectants These exhibit hygroscopic behaviour, they can draw in and hold onto large amounts of water.

What makes a good moisturiser? You need to understand the skin type you are formulating for. You need to understand target area It should feel nice on application, not too greasy. It shouldn’t ‘soap up’ It should smell nice, or have no base odour

Additives Natural additives Hydroxyacids Vitamins EFAs Polysaccharides Delivery vehicles – liposomes, encapsulates

Control of body odour and sweating 14 April 2017

Sweat Apocrine – contains proteins and amino acids Eccrine Main source of nutrients for bacteria Eccrine – salt and water

Formulations 3 actions Odour modification – deodorising action or masking Fragrance Odour removal – washing Odour prevention – anti-perspirants Aluminum Chlorohydrate Aluminum zirconium Chlorohydrate

Product formats Roll-on – good skin contact, efficacy Might pull your hair, longer drying time Aerosol – quick drying time Hygienic Stick - good skin contact, efficacy Poor hygiene profile Cream – excellent skin contact messy

Efficacy testing Olfactory Gravometric Sniff test – trained noses Controlled conditions Weighing the amount of sweat At least 20% reduction in sweat levels in treated versus untreated

Sun protection 14 April 2017

Suncare products How does sunlight affect the skin? Tanning through darkening of melanin precursors Skin damage – sunburn, premature ageing, skin cancer Free radicals

UVA & UVB light UVB – (290-320nm) UVA – (320-400nm) Responsible for long term damage Can penetrate glass UVB – (290-320nm) Causes sunburn (erythema)

Sunscreens A Sunscreen is the UV light absorbing agent that helps to lower the incidence of dermal malignancies. The function of the sunscreen is the protection of the skin from damaging UV light. Physical sunscreens Chemical Sunscreens

SPF calculations and star rating SPF = Time to produce erythema in protected skin Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin Star Rating = mean UVA/UVB ratio 0 to <0.2 too low to make UVA claim

Hair Removal 14 April 2017

How do we remove hair? Mechanical Chemical Tweezing Threading Electrical epilation Electrolysis Sugaring Waxing Shaving Chemical Thiglycollates Enzymes

Epilation & Depilation Epilation – is a process of hair removal from below the skin’s surface Depilation – is a process of the temporary removal of hair from the surface of the skin.

Shaving Wet shave Dry shave Soften hair Mechanical removal Reducing friction on skin

Depilatories Thyoglycollate Enyzme based Work by breaking the disulphide linkages in the keratin hair fibres, and totally disintegrate the hair Enyzme based These contain protein-digesting enzymes (papain is a good example. Treat the empty hair follicle to reduce hair growth over a number of months