Textile Fabrics & Finishes

Fabric Design & Construction 2 major forms of fabric designs Structural design Building in texture or interest into fabrics Weaving & knitting Applied design Adding color

Fabric Design & Construction Weaving (def) – the procedure of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other Warp – lengthwise (up and down) Weft (or filling) – crosswise (side to side over and under the warp yarns) Selvage (def) – will not ravel – turns at edge to go back the other way Grain – direction of yarn in fabric Bias grain – diagonal True Bias – 45-degree angle

Types of Weaves 3 basic weave types: Plain Simplest & most common Variation – basket weave denier Think of a tennis racket – lengthwise and crosswise pass over and under each other Twill – a yarn in one direction “floats” over two or more yarns in the other direction – dominant yarn is seen on the surface of the cloth creating a diagonal rib pattern Satin – long yarn floats on the surface in one direction – go over 4 or more yarns and under one – creates shiny fabric surface Variations of 3 weave types can create: Stripes, checks, plaids, and other patterns

Variation Terms Jacquard loom Pile fabrics Nap Machine that weaves large, complex designs Pile fabrics Have loops projecting from surface Terry cloth Nap Raised from the surface

Knitting (def) Looping yarns together Gauge # of stitches, or loops, per inch Sportswear, sweaters (natural flexibility and built in stretch to fit the body comfortably) Types Tube form Flat knitted fabrics Page 120 - Characteristics

Knitting Single knit – single needle Double knit – 2 needles Formal wear, lingerie, & T-shirts Double knit – 2 needles Dresses, slacks, suits, & coats Purl Knits – crosswise ridges – reversible Waistbands, neckbands, cuffs Sweater knits – loosely knitted Textured knits Permanently crimped, coiled, curled, or looped

Knitting Warp Knits Tricot Raschel knits Fastest way Stable, durable Most familiar warp knit Does not run or ravel Clingy dresses, shirts, & lingerie Raschel knits Limited stretch, lots of texture

Nonwoven fabrics (def) made from a compact web of fibers, not yarns, held together with a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, and/or pressure. Compact web Use Moisture, heat, chemicals No grain line Disposable Collars & cuffs Vinyl Artificial suedes

Other Construction Methods Laces and Nets Braided Fabrics Also called plaiting Shoelaces, trims Bonded Fabrics Fusible web Iron on patches Quilted Fabrics

Fabric Finishing Apply colors, designs, surface treatments Converters Greige to finished fabrics Bleaching Dyeing Printing Adding finishes

Bleaching Chemicals Remove natural coloring Remove impurities Oils, waxes, Fade products Stone wash

Dyeing Giving color to textiles Colorfast Not fade or change Can launder, dry cleaning, sunlight, perspiration, rubbing

Dyeing Fiber Yarn Before spun into yarn Natural – stock-dyed or bale-dyed Manufactures Solution-dyed Yarn Before wound onto spoils Stripes, checks, plaids

Dyeing Piece Dyeing Garment After woven or knitted Least expensive, fastest Garment Usually knitted Dyed with requested color and immediately shipped

Printing Colors, designs, patterns to surface of garment Overall prints Across all the fabric Directional prints Border prints Even or balanced plaids Ex. checks

Printing Uneven plaids Several basic methods Roller Printing Screen Printing Rotary printing – combo of roller & screen Heat transfer Ink-Jet Printing – cheaper Flocking – with adhesive

Finishes Wearing advantages Temporary Renewable Ease of care Page 127 – fabric finishes Most are permanent Durable Temporary Last until washed Renewable Can be replaced

Finishes Many types but all fall into 2 categories Mechanical Chemical Affects sizes and appearances Ex. Pre-shrunk Pressing & pounding – flat harder surface Chemical Mercerization Ex. Crease-resistant, stain resistant Permanent press Resist wrinklet

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26N3lUzu70g