Chapter 9 The Impact of Spice

Chapter 9 Outline Aperitif: Bayou La Seine – An American Restaurant in Paris Spice in Wine and Food Wine Varietals and Styles Food Types and Styles How Spice is Assessed Identifying Spice Types: Hot, Pepper, or Sweet Impact on Pairing Possibilities

Chapter 9 Key Concepts Adapting ethnic foods to local tastes Prominent spice flavors Differences between herbs and spices Spice flavor levels Savory-spices Sweet-spices Hot-spices Potential wine killers Limiting effects of spice on wine pairing

Flavor Layering Flavor in food and wine can be described as a ‘web’ of differing flavor enhancing characteristics. Flavor layering provides additional elements to the layering effects of taste components and texture. An objective of the food and wine pairing process is to isolate flavors and identify the most prominent ones. Major flavor character categories include: fruity, nutty, smoky, herbal, spicy, cheesy, earthy, and meaty.

The Prominent Spice Categories There are 3 main categories of spice: sweet, savory, and hot. Spiciness can be described as: sweet-spicy, savory-spicy, and herbal (dried or fresh). Spices can be derived from the: root, bark, flower, seed, fruit, or buds. In wine, spice flavors can take on the following characteristics: sweet-spicy, savory- spicy, and hot-spicy.

Gewürztraminer Gewürztraminer is the classic “spicy” white varietal. This wine typically has exotic fruit flavors and flavors of numerous sweet-spices including nutmeg, cloves, ginger, or allspice. The sense of exotic fruit flavors and sweet- spices associated with Gewürztraminer make it the “go to” wine recommendation with Asian and other exotic or spicy ethnic foods such as Mexican and Indian.

Gewürztraminer (2) “Gewürz” in German means aromatic or pungent. “Traminer” translates to mean grape – thus, meaning aromatic grape. The original Traminer grape has been traced back to the village of Tramin in what is now known as the Italian Tyrol. Spicy Gewürztraminer wines are available from the Alsace area of France, Germany, Washington State, Oregon, Idaho and California

Wines with Spice and Herbal Characteristics Wines with Spice Notes: Whites: Gewürztraminer, Viognier, oaky Chardonnay, Austrian Grüner-Veltliner, Mosel Riesling (Germany) and Portuguese Vinho Verde. Reds: Shiraz, Syrah, Côte du Rhône, red Zinfandel (California and Washington), Greek reds, Petite Sirah (California) and Sangiovese. Wines with Herbal Notes: Whites: Sauvignon Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Sémillon, New World Viognier, white Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly- Fumé, and Alsace Riesling. Reds: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Syrah, red Rioja and Italian Chianti.

Wines that Tame Hot-Spicy Foods: Whites: Italian Moscato d’Asti, German Riesling Kabinett, Gewürztraminer and Portuguese Vinho Verde. Reds: the best bet is to select reds with low tannins, lower alcohol and are fruity in nature (e.g., Beaujolais, Gamay, Italian Dolcetto, Lemberger, Valpolicella, and Spanish Tempranillo).

Food Style Consumption of spice has increased substantially over the past 30 years. The first Oriental spice that was brought to Europe was pepper. 41% of U.S. spices are pepper and hot spices (black pepper, white pepper, red pepper, and mustard seed). Greater use of herbs, fusion flavors, robust and bold flavors, chili varieties, and ethnic flavors. Sweet-spice include: cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger, tamarind, etc. Savory spices include: pepper, cumin, cardamom, fish sauce, etc. Hot-spicy include: mustard seed, hot peppers, horseradish, etc.

Food Styles Continued Chilies or hot peppers originated in the Americas and have become a basic ingredient in many cuisines around the globe. To determine a natural wine pairing for spicy foods, it is very useful to look at what the native people drink with a dish in that region of the world. Thai cuisine presents a unique situation where all of the elements and spice types may be incorporated into a single dish: sweet spice, hot spices, savory spices and a variety of herbs.

Definition of Spice Sensations 5 general levels: Imperceptible (no spice=0-2): Sensation is not detectable or if sensation fades almost immediately. No perception or barely perceptible levels. Little Perception (weak spice=2-4): Sensation in which we succeed in identifying or perceiving it in a recognizable way, but, the stimulus is not well- defined. The level of perception is still low. Sufficiently Perceived (moderately spicy= 4- 6): Sensation in which we succeed in identifying and perceiving it in a sufficient level. There is an intermediate level of perception.

Definition of Spice Sensations Continued Abundant Perception (intense spice=6- 8): Sensation in which we can clearly identify and perceive in a very distinct way. The taste- smell sensation is at an emphasized level. Highly Perceived (powerful spice=8- 10): Sensation that can be unmistakably identified with much emphasis. High perceptibility with a lot of emphasis.

Wine Elements that Interact with Food Spice Oak and tannins can clash with spice in foods, depending on the level of spice used in the dish. Spicy and herbal notes in wine can interact with food and spice, some have the ability to tame hot and spicy foods. Spice and herb characteristics inherent in the varietal, growing conditions, and the wine making process can all affect a finished wine and pairing decisions. Acidity, sweetness, body, flavor intensity, alcohol level, oak, age, tannins, fruit-forward qualities, and varietal can interact with food spice.

The Impact of Wine Tannin, Sweetness, and Acidity on Food Spice Acidity in wine cleanses the palate. Many suggest that spicy foods should be paired with fruity, young, low-tannin reds, or whites with moderate-alcohol, some sweetness, and light acidity Hot and spicy foods are typically best paired for a refreshing reprieve that prepares the palate for the next bite. Refreshing acidity and light sweetness can be a nice contrast to spicy foods.

Wine Choices that are Safe Bets for Food Spices and Herbs Coriander and Dill – Sauvignon Blanc Mint – Cabernet Sauvignon Fresh Chilies – Crisp, fruity whites Dried Chilies - fruity, lightly acidic whites or lighter reds Garlic - Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay Ginger - Alsace Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Champagne

Wine Choices that are Safe Bets for Food Spices and Herbs Continued Mustard - Solid, acidic whites (Sancerre, Riesling), lighter Chardonnays (unoaked), lighter Pinot Noir, and Riojas Saffron - Dry whites, young Tempranillo Pepper -Tannic or rustic reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Côtes du Rhône Horseradish - Fruity, lightly acidic white or light red (Sancerre, Dolcetto, Beaujolais)

Chapter 9 Lagniappe “Something extra” Other Causes of Spice in Wines

As pointed out in Chapter 9, spice and herb characteristics in wine are determined by: the varietals used, growing conditions, and the wine making process. The following slides point out a few of many impacts during the wine production process.

Fermentation Temperature: The length of time and temperature that a wine is fermented impacts aromas and flavors in a finished wine. For instance, Pinot Noir fermented at cold temperatures create fruit flavors such as berry and black cherry. Whereas, cool fermentation creates pepper and spice flavors in Pinot Noir.

Type of Yeast The type of yeast used to ferment wine can impact wine flavors. For instance, the use of indigenous yeast flora in Riesling production results in the desirable fruity character. Rieslings fermented using a spontaneous process have stronger flavors of spicy, apple, melon and pear than those using induced fermentation.

Aging in Oak A vary of flavor components are extracted when oak aging is used. The resulting impact depends on type of oak, age, amount of toast, size of barrel, and length of time in oak. One spicy characteristic is a clove-like flavor called Eugenol. It is extracted mainly from untoasted oak.

Additional Reading Jackson, R.S. (2000). Wine Science. San Dieago, CA: Academic Press. Margalit, Y. (2004). Concepts in Wine Technology. San Francisco, CA: The Wine Appreciation Guild, Ltd.