Evaluate Basic Construction Standards Obj If you purchase or construct a pair of pants what is important for you to consider?

Pants Crotch length should be comfortable when sitting or bending

Shirt or coat construction If you purchase or construct a blouse or shirt what is important for you to consider?

Shirt Blouse Coat Collar points should be sharp Collar should lie close to the neck Set in sleeves, raglan & kimono sleeves should be smooth at the bodice and smooth at the sleeve cap A Set in sleeve design that is to be gathered as an example of a child’s puff sleeve- only the sleeve cap should show gathering Cuffs should overlap comfortably Button & button holes should lap without puckering Zippers should be smooth and match the fabric unless it is part of a color design Hems are determined by the design

Sleeve Types Set in Sleeve Raglan Kimono

What’s inside??? What is used in a collar, cuff and button/button hole area to give shape and support?

INTERFACING Interfacing Types *Non Fusible are woven *Fusible are non woven

Warm up #1-3 List sleeve types #4-What is important for you to consider when you buy or make pants? #5-What is in a collar that gives shape & support?

Obj. #3.02 Demo. Basic construction skills Sleeves Interfacing use Closures Hemming

Manufactured Apparel Seam and Seam Finishes Seam size 1/2” different than home sewing 5/8” Seam finishes according to fabric type 1. Most are serged finish today 2. Pinked seam finish- fabric that doesn’t ravel 3. Machine Zig zag finish- loosely woven or heavy fabrics 4.Bound seam finish-medium to heavy weight fabrics & attractive finish for unlined jackets 5.Turned & Stitched finish- light weight to medium weight fabrics 6. Double stitch- medium weight 7. Lapped- leather, suede, ultra suede

Seams Flat fell seam- decorative and strong -- suitable for all fabrics but heavy--used for jean inside leg seams for durability Welt seam- heavy weight fabrics because it is less bulky than flat fell seam French seam- sheer fabric

Seam & Seam Finishes Warm Up 1. What is the size of an industry seam? 2. What are the types of seam finishes used for heavy weight fabric? 3.What type of seam finish is on your shirt/blouse you are wearing today?

Reduce Bulk in Seams Trimming-evenly cut away part of the seam allowance Grading-cut each seam allowance to a different width Clipping-making straight cuts into the seam allowance- so curved seams will lie flat Notching-cutting V-shaped sections from the seam allowance on an outward curve

Flat-felled Seam Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction p. 547 Cut out 2—4” squares of fabric—thread machine Place fabric WRONG sides together Stitch 5/8” seam on one side only Press open then press both to one side Trim the under seam allowance to 1/8” Turn under the long seam and Press under the edge of the seam ¼”-on top of small seam Stitch the folded edge to the garment-Press Staple onto paper-label-list steps to make Place in portfolio

Flat felled seam 1. Place WRONG sides together 2. Sew 5/8” seam 3. Trim one seam allowance to 1/8 ”

4. Fold large seam allowance in ½ over the small seam 5. Tuck under & Pin 6. Sew and press

Top stitch edge of folded seam

Welt Seam-used for heavy fabrics Right sides together Stitch a plain seam Press both seam allowances to one side Trim the under seam allowance to ¼” Wider seam allowance should be on top On the good side of the fabric Topstitch 1/4” from seam center

Warm up Cut out one apparel garment from a magazine Glue onto notebook paper Label 1.type of sleeve 2.label area where interfacing may be used- example-cuff 3.label where reduce bulk types may have been uses -example- collar outside curve –notching Use your notes

HEMS What is an indicator of a well made hem? Hem is parallel to the floor Hem edge is flat and smooth Hem is straight and even Hem is machine or hand sewn

Hand Sewing Coarse dull needles are for heavy fabrics that are loosely woven -The needle # is low and dull- Example #1, curved point, large eye,thick and long Fine needles are sharp and for lightweight to medium weight fabrics –The needle # is high and sharp point- Example #7-12, short, small eye, and very sharp point Needle Types 1. Sharps- most often used, average in length and small eye, sharp point 2. Betweens- short needles and small eye 3. Crewel or embroidery- large eye and dull point

Clothing: Fashion, Fabric & Construction pg. 538 Hem Finish depends on __ and the __. If fabric ravels, ______. Why do knits not need seam finishes? List 4 hem finishes and how to make them and fabric types. Sew on own project.

Warm up --Hemming 1. What hemming type is used on knit fabrics? 2. Look at your clothing you have on today, what hemming type do you have?

Hand Hemming Blindstitch – used with all fabrics and hem finishes. This stitch shows less than others and allows for movement without pulling. Hemming stitch – used to stitch a hem with seam tape or lace finish. Catchstitch – good for hemming knits and stretch fabrics. This stitch can be done at the hem edge or as a blind catchstitch inside the hem. Slip stitch – used to join a folded edge, such as a hemmed finish, to the garment. This stitch is excellent for narrow, hand-rolled hems.

Seam finish pillow project Cut 2 – 6” squares of fabric Thread machine Put fabric right sides together Sew 1/2” seams leaving a 2” opening Clip corners and trim seam to ¼” Turn inside out Press Stuff and STOP Pin seam finish worksheet back to pillow Put in your tray to finish opening next day Sew on your own project

Warm up ( place on overhead when complete #2-5) 1. Take out your stuffed seam finish pillow & leave on your table area 2. Look at your pants -How are they hemmed? Machine or hand hem 3. What is the best hand hem to use for knit fabric? Catch or blind hem 4. What is the best hand hem to use for fabric that will ravel? Catch or blind hem

Hemming Pants Not all shoes are the same. A heel will change the amount of space available on the front of the foot for a hem to hang freely. A flat shoe will almost follow the normal foot for hemline availability. Although a sneaker is usually a "flat" sole, the padding on the top of the sneaker will effect how a hem hangs on the front of the foot.

Hemming Pants. The same hemline will land on a different part of the foot depending on the type of shoe that is worn. With a heel the front of the pant leg has enough clearance to hang freely and not crinkle the line of the pant leg. A flat shoe or sneaker does not have that clearance and the pant leg is going to crinkle due to it riding on the top of the shoe.

Which it the correct length ?

Items to hem pants *Dressmaker shears *Matching thread or thread one shade darker *Seam ripper *Hand sewing needle *Seam gauge *Sewing machine *Iron on fusible tape *Iron *Press cloth

Steps to hem 1.Try on pants/skirt 2.Turn up hem and pin 3.Or determine how much hem to take out 4. Rip out the old hem 5. Press old seam crease out 6. Finish seam edge- serge ‘ or turn under ¼” 7. Pin hem 8.Hand or machine sew hem 9. Press hem seam

Measure & Pin hem

Machine Blind Hem Set the stitch pattern

Place the hem side down on the sewing machine bed. Roll back the body of the garment to expose the inside edge of the hem

Steps to hem using machine Place the hem side down on the sewing machine bed. Roll back the body of the garment to expose the inside edge of the hem. Sew so that the needle swing, catches a thread or two of the rolled back fabric. Set a seam guide to keep the straight sewing on the hem and the rolled back fabric stays evenly in place.Set a seam guide Rather than back stitch, leave a tail when you start and stop sewing. Tie the tails together to knot the thread

Finished machine hem

Slip stitch for hand hemming

Needle should grab a small amount on the hem side and one thread on the leg side about ¼” apart on the row

Stations for hand sewing Station 1- computers-2 students to each computer. Turn up volume to hear videos. View video on hemming pants and close an opening- List steps to do hemming/closing as you listen, pin station 2 sample to this paper Station2- Clothing: Fashion, Fabric & Construction, page 508 – hand hemming knit fabric using the catch stitch- Cut out 4” square of fabric, thread hand sewing needle with double thread-fold up 1” of fabric, pin, then begin the catch stitch. Staple onto Station 1 paper & label –turn in on overhead Station 3- Clothing: Fashion, Fabric & Construction page 509- hand hemming any type of fabric that will ravel- use the blind stitch- to close your seam finishes pillow opening after stuffing, tuck in the open edges, pin together, then use blind stitch. Do your best to not let the seam be seen. Pin pillow back on seam finish worksheet and turn in Work on your own sewing project when all stations are finished

About.com Hemming How to hem pants and a skirt videos in search block type: hem pants Scroll to hemming pants video with this address click on it then--- Wait for video to load 1. Write steps down how to Hem Pants

Hand Hemming Blindstitch – used with all fabrics and hem finishes. This stitch shows less than others and allows for movement without pulling. Hemming stitch – used to stitch a hem with seam tape or lace finish. Catchstitch – good for hemming knits and stretch fabrics. This stitch can be done at the hem edge or as a blind catchstitch inside the hem. Slip stitch – used to join a folded edge, such as a hemmed finish, to the garment. This stitch is excellent for narrow, hand-rolled hems. Iron on fusible tape- press into hem seam

Blindstitch hem Blindstitch – used with fabrics that ravel for hem finishes. This stitch shows less than others and allows for movement without pulling. Turn hem edge up ¼”, pin, then fold up 1” more, pin. Thread needle, place threaded needle under the ¼” edge and pull through. Place threaded needle

Catchstitch Hem Catchstitch – good for hemming knits and stretch fabrics. This stitch can be done at the hem edge or as a blind catchstitch inside the hem. _____________________________ _X_X_X_X_X_X_X_X_X_X_X_X_X_ _____________________________ Threads look like an X in the hem

Pillow opening How to close a pillow opening In Search box type: hand close a pillow opening Scroll down-click on “ Completing a decorative pillow by hand sewing an opening” Watch video and write a summary on paper

Summary Joe wants to hem his 1970’s knit polyester pants he got from Goodwill for his Halloween party outfit. He plans on wearing his one inch heel dress shoes. What type of hem finish should he use?

Warm up & Hemming activity 1. Catchstitch hand hem finish is used on what type of fabric hem? Finish your catch stitch hem and turn in 2. Cut out 4” square of any type of fabric 3. Thread your machine, look at your machine instruction book for directions on how to set your machine for machine hemming. 4. Turn one edge up 1”, get hemming foot 5. Hem using the machine

Warm up 1. What type of presser foot is used to hem apparel? 2. Why does the stitch pattern on the sewing machine need to be set in a zig zag design when machine hemming apparel?

Thread types Reader’s Digest: Complete Guide to Sewing page 12 Thread for constructing a garment should be strong, durable & stretchy. 3 types of cotton thread: soft (untreated), Glace’(polished), and mercerized (machine embroidery) Synthetic threads-made from polyester or nylon

Thread & needles Match needle & thread size If eye is too small, the thread will be damaged If needle is too large, the thread will not fill the needle punctures The higher the number the finer the thread Medium thread is #50 Use thread one shade darker than the fabric color if it doesn’t match perfect

Complete Guide to Sewing p.12 Use thread sheet paper List 9 types of threads with fiber usage Cut 2” threads for thread type, tape on 1” and let the other 1” of thread hang out so you can feel thread weight & type

Warm up 1. Threads for constructing garments should be _____,______,______. 2. What happens to the thread if the eye of the needle is too small? 3. General purpose thread is what size? 4. When purchasing fabric and one can’t find the exact color thread to match, what color should one choose?

Complete guide to sewing p. 26 Sewing machine needles The finer the fabric the finer point of machine needle you will use Draw the 3 types of machine needles and label on back of handout sheet -–Normal or Universal needles are used for all woven fabrics-size Ball Point needles are for knit and stretch fabrics-size 8-20 with rounded point -- Extra fine point are used for heavy fabric denim, heavy linen or canvas-size Draw parts of the machine needle and label-the left drawing is looking at the side of the needle Page 27 handout underline –Size of the needle depends of the size of the fabric yarns-the finer the yarns, the finer the needle Spun polyester thread is suitable for nearly all fabric types Stitch length for ordinary seaming depends on fbric weight, texture, and structure As a rule, the heavier the fabric, the longer the stitch: the lighter the fabric, the shorter the stitch Before starting a sewing project always make a test seam sample

Practice Advanced Apparel Construction GO SEW