Lesson 3 Waves

Lesson 3 Waves

This continuous and repetitive transmission of energy from one location to the next is called a wave. A surface wave (in the ocean) is a repetitive disturbance in the water that repeats itself in a pattern. Medium: What the energy travels across/through/over/under (EX: Like a car traveling on a road.)

What are the parts of a wave?

Trough Wavelength Crest

Wavelength Trough Amplitude Crest

Wave: A transfer of energy from one point to the next. One complete wave includes the crest and trough. Crest: The highest point in the wave. Trough: The lowest point in the wave. Wavelength: The distance from one crest to another crest or from one trough to another trough. Wavelength is symbolized as the lowercase Greek letter lambda. Frequency: The time for successive crests or troughs to pass (or vibrate through) a given location. Frequency is a measure of the wave’s vibration. Equilibrium: The point in the middle of a successive trough and crest. Amplitude: The height of a wave from the point of equilibrium to the crest or trough of the wave.

The wind blows Energy (kinetic energy) transferred to the water

Friction (between the wind and water) causes the water to move.

The stronger and longer the wind blows; the stronger and larger the wave.

A wave is the movement of energy through the water. Although a wave appears to carry water to the shore, in actuality the actual water itself is not moving far. That's how surfers can bob along in the water waiting for a breaking wave. Wave height determines the size of a wave. The larger the wave the faster up and down the surfer moves.

Frequency: - describes how many oscillations a wave completes in a period of time. (How often we go from crest to crest to crest.) Very frequent; many crests ( high frequency ) Few crests ( low frequency ) The stronger the wind, the more frequent the waves; the faster the surfer appears to move. The weaker the wind, the less frequent the waves; the slower the surfer appears to move.

As a wave approaches (gets close to) the coast, the shape and slope (angle of the wave) of the shoreline region (area) determines the type of wave that forms.

Waves “break” when the speed of the wave changes as it reaches shallower coastal regions (beach areas). Waves are slowed by friction (rubbing against the ocean floor) as the water becomes shallower. Once a wave gets close to the shore, the top of the wave keeps moving forward even though the bottom part slows down because it is rubbing against the bottom. The top part of the wave lifts up over the bottom part. If it lifts high enough, the top part rolls over and crashes back down, and the wave “breaks.” As waves break, they create a foamy layer of bubbling water, known as surf.

REMEMBER: Once a wave gets close to the shore, the top of the wave keeps moving forward even though the bottom part slows down because it is rubbing against the bottom.

Erosion As waves crash onto a shoreline, small bits of rock are slowly worn away, creating sediments (little tiny pieces of rock/shells/etc.).

An erosional shoreline may contain the following features: Sea Cliff: A wall of rock, carved by the action of waves on a shoreline.

An erosional shoreline may contain the following features: Sea Stack: An exposed island of rock that is a remnant of a former rocky beach area, now completely surrounded by water.

An erosional shoreline may contain the following features: Sea Cave: A cave that is carved out of rock by the action of waves.

An erosional shoreline may contain the following features: Sea Arch: A hollowed archway of rock extending into the ocean.

Deposition Waves can also cause sediments (sand) to be deposited (placed or left) in shoreline regions (the beaches).

An depositional shoreline may contain the following features: Barrier Island: Barrier islands are created as sand is deposited into a region near a shoreline, causing an island to form.

An depositional shoreline may contain the following features: Beach: A beach is any location where sand and sediments are deposited by the action of waves.

An depositional shoreline may contain the following features: Sandbar: A sandbar is an elongated area of sand, separated from the mainland, created by the action of waves.

2. Click on the “S2 Oceans 03: Waves” 1. Go to the “Assessments” tab:

3. Answer all questions and at the bottom check the box, and finally click “submit”.

Lesson 4 Tides and Water Power

Lesson 4 Tides and Water Power

Tides on Earth are caused by the gravitational interaction between the sun, Earth, and moon system. A result of the changes in water levels caused by waves.

Complete the interactive activity on, the “Discover” page 1, under the tab “Tidal Forces”

(Highlights from the interactive) 1.The sun and the moon pull on the Earth’s water, creating tidal bulges.

(Highlights from the interactive) 1.The sun and the moon pull on the Earth’s water, creating tidal bulges. 2.Gravity and inertial keep the Earth in orbit around the sun.

(Highlights from the interactive) 1.The sun and the moon pull on the Earth’s water, creating tidal bulges. 2.Gravity and inertial keep the Earth in orbit around the sun. 3.Solar and lunar days determine the timing of the gravitational effects.

(Highlights from the interactive) 1.The sun and the moon pull on the Earth’s water, creating tidal bulges. 2.Gravity and inertial keep the Earth in orbit around the sun. 3.Solar and lunar days determine the timing of the gravitational effects. 4.The angle of the moon in the sky affects the tidal bulge.

(Highlights from the interactive) 1.The sun and the moon pull on the Earth’s water, creating tidal bulges. 2.Gravity and inertial keep the Earth in orbit around the sun. 3.Solar and lunar days determine the timing of the gravitational effects. 4.The angle of the moon in the sky affects the tidal bulge. 5.Tide-generating forces are created by the pull of gravity from the sun and the moon.

(Highlights from the interactive) 1.The sun and the moon pull on the Earth’s water, creating tidal bulges. 2.Gravity and inertial keep the Earth in orbit around the sun. 3.Solar and lunar days determine the timing of the gravitational effects. 4.The angle of the moon in the sky affects the tidal bulge. 5.Tide-generating forces are created by the pull of gravity from the sun and the moon. 6.Shoreline gravity can affect tides.

Types of tides :

Sun Earth Moon - occur when the sun, Earth, and moon are all in alignment. (More gravitational attraction occurs)

Types of tides : Sun Earth Moon - occur when the sun, Earth, and moon are all at right angles. (Less gravitational attraction occurs)

Incoming tides are called flood currents. Water flows inward toward the shoreline in a flood current. (High tides) When the tide moves out, it is called the ebb current. Water flows away from the shoreline in an ebb current. (Low tides)

Not every location on Earth experiences the same types of tidal cycles. Several types of tidal cycles occur worldwide. Semidiurnal: Semidiurnal tides are locations with two high and two low tides of about the same height each day. The East Coast of the United States has a semidiurnal tidal cycle. Mixed semidiurnal: Locations on the West Coast of the United States experience mixed semidiurnal tides because the levels of tides vary. There are generally two high tides and two low tides, but the water level for each can vary. Diurnal: Diurnal tides are locations where there is only one high and one low tide each day. The Gulf of Mexico experiences diurnal tides.

Semidiurnal: Semidiurnal tides are locations with two high and two low tides of about the same height each day. The East Coast of the United States has a semidiurnal tidal cycle. Mixed semidiurnal: Locations on the West Coast of the United States experience mixed semidiurnal tides because the levels of tides vary. There are generally two high tides and two low tides, but the water level for each can vary. Diurnal: Diurnal tides are locations where there is only one high and one low tide each day. The Gulf of Mexico experiences diurnal tides.

1. Use the lab sheet provided

Lesson 5 Ocean Interactions

Lesson 5 Ocean Interactions

Biosphere: Geosphere: Atmosphere:

Biosphere: Human activities such as fisheries and recreation. Geosphere: Impacts parts of the rock cycle. Atmosphere: Regulating atmospheric gases