Lecture 10 WO details Package Details Garment Details

What is in package? Product description Raw Material Details Accessories description Communication details Delivery instructions Payment terms Delivery schedule Price Any other instruction

Package Reading Different buyers have different ways to describe product People use different terms Different abbreviations are used Important information may be in the extreme corner Some thing may be missing

Cares in reading description Read it collectively Make its photocopy Read it twice Note important points Ask for any term which is not understandable Do not assume Do not rely any other information other than buyer Note every important point

Own information data Make own information data Nothing should be missing Circulate all information to concerned departments Do not hide any information Do not exaggerate Intimate buyer about your understanding from the package

Lecture 11 Costing of Textile and Clothing

Costing ---one of the main jobs of a merchandiser

Fundamental Requirements: Product details Rates of different raw materials Rates of different processes Conversion costs Rejection rates Yield % Over Head cost Any hidden expenses Profit margins

Cares in Costing Accurate calculation of RM Different rates at time of production (not of today) Conversion cost of different process of different firms Consultation with production department No missing of any process and material

Lecture 12 Cost SheetCost Sheet

Direct Cost Raw material Fabric Yarn Knitting/weaving Dyeing or printing Wastages

Accessories Stitching Accessories Stitching thread Labels Patches Buttons zips Strings Cords

Packing Accessories Poly bags Tickets Bands Cartons Price tags Hangers Any other material

Conversion Cost (Stitching labour Cost) Direct Indirect

Direct Cost Wages of operators Piece rates Pressing etc

Indirect Cost Salaries OH Depreciation Taxes In land transportation Bank charges Utility Bills Rents Any other like leasing etc

Costing Process One of the main job of the merchandiser

Lecture 13 Cares in Costing Process No assumptions Every thing should be verified from person concerned Calculate with lot of care Re-check calculation Take help from seniors and juniors

Develop Cost SheetCost Sheet

Description of product and details of buyers Description of product and details of buyers Description of product and details of buyers Description of product and details of buyers  Description of product and details of buyers  Garment measurement  Calculation of Raw Material  Adding of margins and final price determination What should be in product description Four Parts of Cost Sheet

Buyer Details Address Person concerned Department Ref Code Date Order no Article no Name of representative Division

Product Details Fabric (GSM, colors texture etc) Quantity Garment style Delivery dates Special instructions Any other information

Measurement Garment measurements Margins, before wash or after wash etc

Raw Material Calculation Fabric consumption (there are three ways to calculate consumption) Cost of accessories Conversion cost Cost of printing Cost of embroidery Any special finish ] Packing cost Freight Any other material required

Pricing Keep in view: policy of company Market situation Margins percentage Demand and supply situation Any other consideration Give price keeping in mind the negotiating factors

Lecture 14 Raw Material Calculation With the help of GGT or any other plotter By making garments using patterns Just by calculation

Manual Calculation You need: garment specs GSM Fabric width and length Fabric quality level (faults percentage ) And finally you should know how to calculate

Fabric Calculation Garment are calculation

Garment Area Calculation Length Width Margins Folds Shrinkage behaviors Washing affect

Main body Chest *Length *2

Arms area Arm length *(arm hole+ arm opening)* 4

Trousers (Waist band + leg opening )* 2

Consideration in manual calculation Folded areas Margins Grain lines Pattern setting margins

Fabric other than main body Pockets Pocket lining Loops Badges Flaps Collars Cuffs Any other

Relationship between area and GSM For knitted we have to calculate finally in kgs fabriuc required for certain garments For woven we need in yard or meters required

Knitted Fabric Fabric width Dyeing loss End loss Grain alignments

Woven Garments Length of than Width of fabric Waist of ends Pattern margins

Example Calculate fabric required for 1000 garments From the given data

Knitted shirt (all in inches) Length 28 Waist band 2 (folded, included in body length) Arm length 23 Arm opening5 Arm hole 10 Cuff height2 (folded, not included in arm length) Fabric GSM 250 Rib GSM350

Lecture 15 Sampling Highly significant First step for orders Orders depends upon better sampling It has a big cost It needs high skills and technical knowledge It seeks a focused intention

Sampling mechanism Customer Needs development For market survey Sample shoot Sale man sampling Quality assurance purpose For testing

Cares: Samples are produced but production becomes an issue Sampling is a big cost Sampling always in hurry “we need it yesterday” Records maintenance during sampling

Types of sampling

Style Sheet First of all the Style Sheet (also called Bill of Material BOM) comes from buyer for initial working on price & style. Along with that delivery details & quantities are also advised by buyer to make factory work.

Proto Type Sample First of all it’s Proto Sample, where the buyer want to see the basic style. Depending on the buyer you can use all things available if not actual. Most of the time Price is quoted to buyer once Package is receive from buyer, because package carry all the details of fabrication & accessories.

Pre Sales Man Samples (SMS) Since Sale Samples (SMS) are important for meeting & placement (Quantities) point of view (because most buyers see Sales Samples in meeting before placing orders) so some buyer required Pre SMS before SMS it self.

Sales Man Samples (SMS) Once pre-sms samples are approved by buyer (most of the time with comments), buyer ask for sms for meeting. Normally dozens of styles are demanded by buyer, while each style might have more that 1 color (normally 3-4). Actual accessories & fabrication is used for SMS & normally one size is made for that like M (out of S, M, L, and XL). Since it’s a large quantity, mostly buyers pay for sms & use their own courier A/C (DHL / FedEx) to dispatch those samples to buyer.

FIT Once meeting is held & quantities are placed with factory FIT samples is demanded by buyer to see the garment’s appearance in actual. Normally buyer demand M size for FIT sample If rejected, factory needs to re-submit FIT to buyer to before proceedings.

Size Set Once FIT sample is approved Size Set is demanded by buyer to check if the correct specs are being followed in all the size range. Some buyers demand Paper Patterns as well to review specs of size set. Size set cover all the sizes in actual fabrication, in one color.

Pre-Production Sample (PPS or PP) Once the FIT & Size set is approved Pre-Production sample is asked by buyer for the final review & production go ahead. PP is the most important sample & factory cant start production until the PP is approved coz buyer has the right to change any thing in style at this stage & demand re-submission. Once the PP is approved it is sealed with some comments & specs & forward to the production because all the production is based on PP sample. If rejected, need to resubmit accordingly.

TOP of Production Sample (TOP) Once the PP is approved the TOP is sent to buyer with each & every thing in actual. Normally TOP is demanded by buyer to verify, style/accessory/packing/ etc; before the shipment is moved. M size is sent to buyer style wise. Final audit is not conducted until the TOP is approved, even Audit is done before, shipment cant be moved without TOP approval.