COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Energy consumption associated with the production and distribution of jeans in the UK Stephen Anderson University of Westminster

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Objectives of the project Energy study of jeans supply chain French and UK comparison Energy consumed in producing and supplying jeans CO 2 emitted in producing and supplying jeans INRETS and Westminster each carrying out data collection and energy calculation with common approach

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Jean supply chain Cotton farming Spinning and dyeing Fabric manufacture Garment manufacture Import of goods Regional distribution Retail outlet The production and distribution of jeans can be broken down into seven main operations:

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Transport Cotton PlantingGinningCrop careHarvestingSpinning yarn Transport DyeingTransport FinishingTransportWeaving fabric Transport Entry portFinishingTransportSewing garment Transport StorageTransport Distribution centre Retail outlet Final consumer Transport Processes & transport in the production & distribution of jeans Cotton Cultivation Spinning and dyeing Fabric manufacture Garment manufacture Import of goods

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Garment manufacturing Transport Pattern cutting Sewing Transport WashingTransportSpecial finishingTransport Final finishing Processes are not necessarily carried out locally – transport might be required and could be long distance Processes are not necessarily carried out locally – transport might be required and could be long distance

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 French and UK case studies UK supply chain –Cotton from Turkey and USA –Denim made in turkey –Jeans made in Morocco French supply chain –Cotton from Uzbekistan and India –Denim made in India –Jeans made in Bangladesh

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Distribution of jeans – French case (1) Port Le Havre-France Entrepôt sous douane (ICD)- Mise en container Chennai-Inde Port Chittagong- Bangladesh Port Singapore Champs de coton Chennai-Inde Filature/Tissage Ahmedabad-Inde Confection/lavag e Dhaka-Bangladesh

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Distribution of jeans – French case (2)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Distribution of jeans – UK cases Transport 1 Cotton PlantingGinningCrop careHarvesting Spinning yarn DyeingFinishingTransport AWeaving fabric Transport 2Transport 3 FinishingMaking garmentStorage Final consumer Transport Cotton Cultivation – USA and Turkey Spinning, Dyeing and Fabric manufacture - Turkey Garment manufacture - Morocco UK Import of goods Transport 4Transport 5 NDCRetail outlet Transport 6 RDCs Transport activity in supply chain Transport 1 – Road & Sea Transport 2 – Road & Sea Transport 3 – Road, Sea or Rail Transport 4 – Road Transport 5 – Road Transport 6 – Road UK Distribution

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Distribution of jeans – French case (1)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Distribution of jeans – French case (2)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Distribution of jeans – UK cases Total distance using US cotton = 17,950 km Total distance using Turkish cotton = 7,605 km

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Grammes of oil equivalent per pair of jeans (cotton from USA)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 CO 2 per pair of jeans (cotton from USA)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Grammes of oil equivalent per pair of jeans (cotton from Turkey)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 CO 2 per pair of jeans (cotton from Turkey)

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Transport energy from field to shop

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Transport energy from field to home

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Transport from shop to home

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Issues related to non-transport data Energy data for: –Cotton production –Fabric production –Garment make-up Other items used (zips, buttons, etc.) Type of energy used in each activity Generation and use of electricity in different countries (for CO 2 )

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Issues related to transport data Movement of product upstream of garment makeup more difficult to obtain (i.e. cotton fibre transport, denim transport) Empty running and average lading factor Vehicle energy use - not practical to obtain from companies Final consumer transport – average distance travelled, quantity purchased (kgs), empty running

COST 355 – Namur 1-3 Dec 2004 Summary of results to date Transport is not a major contributor to energy use or CO 2 in a basic jeans supply chain Most commercial transport energy used between jeans make-up and supply to domestic market Consumer transport energy can be greater than total commercial transport energy Logistics (transport & stockholding) accounts for about 25% of total supply chain energy use