Brown Sauces: Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié “This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of perfection...”- Escoffier, (referring to demi-glace)

Sauce Espagnole Generally not used directly but refined into a demi-glace or other sauce Developed from a French brown sauce by adding Spanish tomatoes…the early 1600’s Brown Sauce, made by reducing brown stock with a dark roux and tomato product Tomatoes are optional but do deepen the stock’s color

Making Sauce Espagnole Make a 1# of Brown Roux Caramelize 2# Mirepoix or Pinçage (Roasted or Sautéed Mirepoix) Roast the ½# Tomato Product Add the Roux, Mirepoix, Tomato & Bouquet Garni to 5-Qts. Veal/Beef Stock in a Stockpot and Simmer 1-2 hrs Skim Frequently Reduce to Sauce Consistency Strain

Mirepoix vs. Pinçage 2x Onion, 1x Carrot & 1x Celery Sweetness from onion and carrot Herbaceous notes from celery Light and vegetal Luke Mirepoix plus… Tomato product Caramelized by roasting or sauté More assertive flavors Used in brown sauces and stocks Vader

Demi-Glace 50% Sauce Espagnole + 50% Brown Stock, Reduced by 50% May be used as a finishing sauce or (more commonly) as a base for other sauces Alternate Liaisons Arrowroot Cornstarch Potato Starch A “natural” demi-glace or glace de viande is thickened by reduction only (no roux) Natural Demi-Glace reduced by 80% Glace de Viande reduced 90-95%

Reduction vs. Thickening with a Liaison Reduction is usually preferred for taste and consistency Reduction equals a lower yield thus higher cost A roux or other liaison increases yield Liaisons may adversely affect flavor, texture or add additional calories and fat.

Notice the coating on the spoon Sauce Consistency Thin Consistency Sauce or Nappé Consistency Notice the coating on the spoon

Making Demi-Glace (Classic) Combine 1 quart of Espagnole with 1 quart Brown Stock Simmer, Skim and Reduce by 50% -90% Mushroom Stems may be added during simmering Finish with a splash of Madeira, Port or Sherry (optional)

Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.1) Roast Veal Breast (Ribs) with Mirepoix Dégraisser, Deglaze and add all to stock pot Cover with cold water Simmer 5-12 hours. Depouillage. Reduce, season and strain

Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.2) Reduce Brown (Veal) Stock by ¾ or sauce consistency Requires a stock with abundant gelatin aka., Glace de Veau, Glace de Viande

Jus Lié, Fond Lié or Jus de Veau Lié Alternative to a Demi-Glace…lighter and easier Commonly Used in Restaurants as “Demi” Brown Stock Reduced with a Pinçage (Caramelized Mirepoix and Tomato Product) Sometimes thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot Or, thickened by reduction only…requires an abundance of gelatin

“What’s Gravy?” Starch-thickened and de-fatted natural juice from a roast…aka, “jus lié” In England, just a jus, not thickened In New England, a thick tomato sauce as in “Sunday Gravy” Some Types: “Red-Eye” gravy, made from ham drippings and deglazed with coffee (Southern) “Sawmill” gravy, a white gravy…essentially a béchamel seasoned by the meat in the frying process…as in chicken-fried steak or a sausage gravy (Southern) Onion Gravy Giblet Gravy, …the only reason to eat turkey!

Sauce Tomate: Tomato Concassée & Tomato Coulis French Tomato Sauces are usually a secondary component Classic Italian or Spanish Tomato Sauce are base sauces flavored around a mirepoix or soffrito Tomato Concassée Concasser: “to crush, break, or grind” Peeled and Seeded and Chopped Raw or Barely Cooked Best for In-Season-Ripe Tomatoes Cooked Slowly simmered for 5-10 minutes THEN…strain to remove excess liquid (As opposed to cooking all the down and destroying texture and delicacy.) Tomato Coulis Smooth purée strained of seeds and peel Raw or Cooked

Tomato Sauces Classically thickened with a roux French Italian Classically thickened with a roux Uses a white stock, veal or chicken Uses pork bones or other pork products No Roux Simmered with few ingredients Oregano & Basil are commonly added

Improving the Flavor of Tomato Sauces Use the best, ripest, fresh tomatoes. Or a good canned tomato…ie, San Marzano Avoid overcooking the tomatoes The better the tomato the less need for other ingredients Herbs, meats, stock, etc. Use roasting as a means to concentrate tomato flavor and add caramelization flavors Balance both sweetness and acidity with sugar and vinegar or add a gastrique Gastrique: caramelized sugar deglazed with vinegar; used to flavor tomato or savory sauces

Canned Tomato Products Tomato Puree Briefly cooked tomatoes and strained resulting in a thick liquid Tomato Sauce Thinner than puree and may have seasonings and flavorings Tomato Paste (Tomato Concentrate) Tomatoes that have been cooked several hours, strained and reduced to thick concentrate. Generally fairly sweet. Whole or Diced Peeled, seeded and whole or diced. Uncooked. Crushed Unregulated description…may have seeds or peels and varying percentages of tomato

Canned Tomato Products con’t. Sweetness (ripeness) varies Salt is added to bring out the sweetness Citric Acid Preserves and corrects acidity Calcium Chloride Maintains a firm texture too much equals metallic taste and "rubbery" texture Color is NOT necessarily a good indicator of tomato taste. Taste is.

Quick Cooking vs. Slow Cooking Tomato Sauces Marinara* Ragu Quick (20 Minutes) Fresh Tomato Taste Lacks Complexity Long Cooking (Hours) Complex Flavors Usually Includes Meat and a Soffritto *Originally, a slow-simmered tomato sauce from Naples. Italian-American Marinara is generally a quick, fresh tomato sauce or, salsa al pomodoro

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Finely Dice Onion and Émincé Garlic

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Puree and Tomatoes through a Food Mill or Passatutto (Removes skin & seeds.)

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Sweat Onions and then Garlic

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Add the Tomato Paste and Sauté (Turns a shade darker)

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Add the Tomato Puree and Season

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Simmer 30-45 minutes. Finish with fresh basil and splash of olive oil. Check seasoning for sugar, salt, acid & pepper.

Next Week’s Midterm: (Discuss) Cauliflower Soup Each student makes 1 quart using only: cauliflower, WATER, butter, onion, shallot, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and cream. Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Vegetables Each student makes 1 quart From week one’s recipes Clam Chowder Use a clam broth to make a clam veloute Ingredients are limited to clams, clam juice, potatoes, butter, cream. Salt and pepper.

Today’s Lab: Espagnole Classic Demi Glace Demi Glace (Modern) Tomato Sauce, French Coulis De Tomates À La Provençale (Tomato Sauce with Mediterranean Flavors) Chicken Provencale (Poulet à la provençale) Miso Soup and Dashi