Cosmetic Therapy What’s It All About? By: Vickie Mickey, CT,CLHRP

The Fountain of Youth?  The legendary spring of water that was to restore health and youth to anyone who drank from it.  Ponce de Leon other Spanish explorers sought the healing waters.  Cleopatra embarked on many cosmetic procedures to retain her beauty.

Visual Signs of Aging  Wrinkles  Lines  Laxity to skin  Sagging of the skin around the neck & jaw  Brow furrows  Crow’s feet  Bags under the eyes  Lines on the forehead and around the nose  Pigmentation spots  Broken capillaries  Enlarged pores  Dropping of the eyelids

Aging Patterns: Predicting Your Future:  Genetics  Expressions of self  How you look when you are tired vs. rested  Skin damage by the sun

Care & Prevention  Know your Skin!  Daily Exfoliation  Use SUNSCREENS – Daily!!  Fight Free Radicals: load up on antioxidants.  Eyecreams  Moisturize and Drink Water

Medical Fountain of Youth:  Botox  Facial Rejuvenation & Intense Pulse Light  Collagen Fillers  Laser Procedures  Microdermabrasion  Chemical Peels  Pharmaceuticals

Botox Cosmetics Botulinum Toxin Type A - used for many years for frown lines on the forehead, glabella, and crow’s feet ( area around the eyes). Botulinum Toxin Type A can also be used to treat excessive sweating in the underarm area.

Facial Rejuvenation & Intense Pulse Light  Facial Rejuvenation is achieved by the use of light via a laser or intense pulse light therapy.  The light of either modality penetrates deep into the dermis creating heat to the tissue. The heating process rebuild the collagen in the skin which plumps the skin, reduces pore size, and can even skin tone.

Collagen Fillers  There are a variety of collagen fillers on the market.  The collagen is injected into the skin to fill furrows in the nasal labial folds or plump the lips.

Laser Procedures  Skin Rejuvenation  Laser Hair Removal  Vein Removal - Telangiectasia  Benign Pigmented Lesions

Pigmented Lesions  Age Spots  Cherry Hemangioma & Hemangioma  Blue veins  Venous Lake  Solar Lentigenes  Freckles  Melasma  Hyper pigmentation  Solar Keratosis

Treatment of Pigmented Lesions  Laser can be utilized to remove or treat all of these conditions.  These procedures are preformed by the physicians.  Additionally, warts can all be removed by the use of the laser.

Skin Rejuvenation  This procedure is done by a laser that emits a beam of intense light or by IPL that penetrates deeply into the skin tissue.  The light energy breaks down the collagen in the skin, thus stimulating the body to build new cells.  The skin appearance changes with renewed smoothness, plumpness, reduction of pore size and healthier younger skin.  This procedure is performed by physician.

Laser Hair Removal  This procedures allows the reduction of hair in the skin. Depending on the color of the skin and hair different types of lasers are used to achieve reduction.  Clinical studies indicate 6-8 treatments over a month period.  Laser hair removal cannot be performed on eyebrows.  Laser hair removal is not perfected to the point of removal of gray hair.

Laser Vein Removal  The blood vessel is targeted by the laser with a very small beam of light. The light energy heats up the vessel and causes a small burse to the vessel and the body absorbs the blood.  Patients do not need to wear support hose after the procedure and will notice very little reaction the skin.

Microdermabrasion  This term is a general term for the application of tiny crystals used to buff away the surface layer of the skin.  There are many products on the market today to achieve microdermabrasion.  Medical microdermabrasion is unique in that works on both layers of the skin.

Medical Dermdermabrasion  The epidermis and the dermis are effected by this technique in that it removes the dead skin from the stratum corneum or outer layer of the skin.  Stratum corneum acts as a barrier to the outside world and protects the lower cells and organs of the body.  The stratum corneum absorbs limited amount of products applied to the skin.  The imperfections of the skin such as age spots, freckles, fine lines, wrinkles, and blemishes form here.

Medical Microdermabrasion Cont.  Removing the outer dead cells of the skin enables production of new living cells in the dermis layer.  The cell renewal process takes weeks to achieve.  Microdermabrasion can be combined with a light chemical peel to increase the effect.

Benefits of Medical Microdermabrasion:  Exfoliates the Stratum Corneum.  Unclogs sebum build up.  Stimulates collagen and elastin cells as well as the moisture retaining molecules.  Reduces pigmentation.  Helps unclog pores and reduces acne.

Benefits of Medical Microdermabrasion  Resolves discoloration of skin!  Skin is brighter, pore size is reduced.  Tone and texture of skin is more youthful.  Resolves acne!  One of the best skin procedures for skin of color.

Chemical Peels Poly-hydroxy Acids is the new term for hydro-acids as well as sugar and milk acids. Acid peels can be minor in depth of the skin such as home treatments of glycolic acids or alpha hydroxy acids. Usually the home peels do not exceed 12% acid. Deeper acid peels are performed by trained professionals and can range in strengths up to 90%.

Chemical Peels Cont.  Cosmetology limit the percentage of acids that can be used by aestheticians, usually less than 50% solution.  Higher levels must be performed under physician supervision or by physician.

Cosmeceuticals  Medical Grade ingredients used for cosmetic purposes.  Cosmeceuticals have the ability to change the structure of the skin without a doctor’s prescription.  Alpha-hydroxy acids are naturally occurring in sugar plants. Glycolic Acids are extracted from sugar cane, lactic acid are from milk, tartaric acid are from grages, citric acid from citrus fruits, malic acid is from apples and mandelic acid is from bitter almonds. Acids work at the base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds the dead skin cells together.  Retinols helps with cell regeneration and builds collagen. Should be used in the evening, once a week.

Prevention  Antioxidants and Sunscreen can effectively help prevent the signs of aging.  Antioxidants need to be formulated correctly for the skin to absorb the substance. L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in a concentrated form has proven to beneficial in the reduction of damage from UVA/UVB rays. Additionally it reduces the fine lines and wrinkles, provides photo protection, stimulates collagen, and net