022000Biehl 1. 022000Biehl 2 022000Biehl 3 022000Biehl 4 INCI:Dicaprylyl Carbonate Spreading value:1600 mm 2 / 10 min Sensory feeling:dry, volatile.

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Presentation transcript:

022000Biehl 1

022000Biehl 2

022000Biehl 3

022000Biehl 4 INCI:Dicaprylyl Carbonate Spreading value:1600 mm 2 / 10 min Sensory feeling:dry, volatile silicon oil like Skin compatibility:excellent Stability:hydrolysis stable Origin:vegetable (fatty alcohol) Biodegrability:yes It‘s personnel data

022000Biehl 5 What can it do for you? Skin Cleansing Deodorants / APs Sun Care Skin Care

022000Biehl 6 Superior skin compatibility ADVANTAGES: Skin Care Smoothes the skin Dry, silicon oil like skin feel Fast spreading emollient Good emulsifiability

022000Biehl 7 Fast spreading emollient Skin Care Smoothness Time Cetiol ® PGL Cetiol ® J 600 Cetiol ® CC

022000Biehl 8 EmollientINCISpreading Value [mm 2 /10 min] Cyclomethicone> 2600high Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl Carbonate1600 Cetiol ® OEDicaprylyl Ether1600 Myritol ® 331Cocoglycerides750medium Cetiol ® PGLHexyldecanol/Hexyldecyl Laurate750 Eutanol ® G 16Hexyldecanol600 Myritol ® 318Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride550 Cetiol ® J 600Oleyl Erucate350slow Almond OilPrunus Dulcis200 Spreading Values Skin Care

022000Biehl 9 Superior skin compatibility Method: Human Patchtest, 20 % AS in cosmetic alcohol Skin Care Irritation Score (Erytheme) Cetiol ® CC IPMN-Hexadecan

022000Biehl 10 Emulsifiability of different emollients Skin Care IngredientsINCI w/w% Eumulgin ® VL 75Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin Emollient16.0 Carbopol 2 %Carbomer15.0 KOH 20 %Kaliumhydroxide0.6 WaterAqua63.9

022000Biehl 11 Good emulsifiability magnification 400 x 50 µm Droplet Size: E Droplet Size: D Droplet Size: C Skin Care Standard formulation with Eumulgin ® VL 75 Droplet Size: B Droplet Size: A

022000Biehl 12 IngredientINCIDroplet Size Myritol ® 331CocoglyceridesA Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl CarbonateB Eutanol ® GOctyldodecanolB Cetiol ® OEDicaprylyl EtherC Myritol ® 318Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideC Paraffinum LiquidumC CyclomethiconeD Skin Care Emulsifiability of different emollients with Eumulgin ® VL 75

022000Biehl 13 O/W Emulsion with Cetiol ® CC Rec. DE 99/239/6 Ingredients INCIw/w % Emulgade ® PL 68/50Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol2.5 Dehymuls ® PGPHPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5 Amphisol KPotassium Cetyl Phosphate0.5 Cutina ® GMS-VGlyceryl Stearate 1.0 Novata ® AB Cocoglycerides1.0 Myritol ® 331Cocoglycerides 5.0 Copherol ® F 1300Tocopherol1.0 Siliconoil Wacker AK 350Dimethicone0.5 Carbopol 980Carbomer0.3 Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl Carbonate6.0 Glycerin 86 %Glycerin5.0 KOH 20 %Potassium Hydroxide0.6 Perfume, Preservativeq.s. WaterAqua74.1 Skin Care

022000Biehl 14 W/O Emulsion with Cetiol ® CC Rec. DE 99/244/3 Ingredients INCIw/w % Dehymuls ® PGPHPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate3.0 Lameform ® TGIPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate1.0 Zincum N29Zinc Stearate1.0 Cetiol ® AHexyl Laurate6.0 Cetiol ® SNCetearyl Isononanoate5.0 Eutanol ® G 16Hexyldecanol1.0 Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl Carbonate8.0 Glycerin 86 %Glycerin5.0 MgSO 4. 7H 2 OMagnesium Sulfate1.0 Perfume, Preservativeq.s. WaterAqua69.0 Skin Care

022000Biehl 15 ADVANTAGES: Sun Care Solubility for crystalline UV filter Dispersing performance for pigments Increase of UV absorption SPF enhancing capacity Balanced sensory due to spreading ability

022000Biehl 16 Spreading fast slow Solubility little high Sun Care Solubility for crystalline UV filter & Spreading performance C Alkyl Benzoate Cetiol ® OECetiol ® CC Myritol ® 331 Cyclomethicone

022000Biehl 17 Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C Solubility for crystalline UV filter Sun Care Solubility [%] Cetiol ® CC Cyclo- methicone Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane C Alkyl Benzoate Myritol ® 331

022000Biehl 18 Sun Care Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C Solubility for crystalline UV filter C Alkyl Benzoate Myritol ® Cetiol ® CC 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor Solubility [%] Cyclo- methicone

022000Biehl 19 Sun Care Dispersing performance for pigments A C METHOD: Titanium dioxide was dispersed into the emollient under stirring without homogenisation (80 parts Emollient + 20 parts Titanium Dioxide (Titanium Dioxide T 805, Degussa) ) The pigment dispersion was assessed by microscope examination and viscosity behaviour

022000Biehl 20 Sun Care Viscosity & Homogeneity of Pigment Dispersions Emollient Viscosity Homogeneity (mPas) Myritol  331 / Cocoglycerides14 000A Cetiol ® CC / Dicaprylyl Carbonate 9 000B Cetiol  PGL / Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 9 000B Paraffinum Liquidum 8 000C Cetiol  OE / Dicaprylyl Ether3 000C Cyclomethicone 3 000C

022000Biehl 21 Sun Care Formula for SPF determination Rec. DE 97/062/1 IngredientsINCIw/w % Emollient16.0 Neo Heliopan E 1000Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate6.4 Neo Heliopan BBBenzophenone-31.6 Copherol ® F 1300Tocopherol1.0 Carbopol ® ETD 2001Carbomer0.3 Eumulgin ® VL 75Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate,3.5 Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin Glycerin 86 %Glycerin3.0 WaterAqua67.5 KOH 20 %Potassium Hydroxide0.7 Perfume, preservativeq.s.

022000Biehl 22 SPF enhancing capacity Sun Care Result:In a given formulation the substitution of Mineral oil by Cetiol ® CC increases the SPF in vitro by > 100 % SPF in vitro (Labsphere) Paraffinum Liquidum Cetiol ® CC

022000Biehl 23 Sun Care O/W Sun Lotion with Cetiol ® CC SPF > 20 (est.)Rec. DE 99/095/10 Ingredients INCIw/w % Eumulgin ® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin Lanette ® ESodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1.0 Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl Carbonate12.0 Myritol ® 331Cocoglycerides10.0 Neo Heliopan AVOctyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5 Neo Heliopan 303Octocrylene 9.0 Eusolex T 2000Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 5.0 Veegum UltraMagnesium Aluminium Silicate 1.5 Keltrol TXanthan Gum 0.5 Glycerin 86 %Glycerin 3.0 Hydagen ® BBisabolol 0.5 Water Aqua46.0 Perfume, Preservative q.s.

022000Biehl 24 W/O Sun Blocker with Cetiol ® CC SPF 30 (est.) Rec. DE 99/095/14 Sun Care Ingredients INCI w/w % Dehymuls ® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate4.0 Lameform ® TGIPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate2.0 Beeswax3.0 Zinc Stearate1.0 Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl Carbonate11.0 Myritol ® 331Cocoglycerides10.0 Eusolex T 2000Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone15.0 Isostearic Acid1.0 Copherol ® F 1300Tocopherol2.0 Glycerin 86 %Glycerin5.0 Water Aqua44.5 MgSO 4 ·7 H 2 OMagnesium Sulfate1.0 Hydagen ® BBisabolol0.5 Perfume, Preservative q.s.

022000Biehl 25 Deodorants / APs Can be used for Sprayable Antiperspirant PIT formulae Transparent Antiperspirant Gels Antiperspirant Cremes & Roll on Suspensions Antiperspirant Sticks Performance in stick formulations: Gives a special dry, powdery & silky skin feeling Reduces white residues ADVANTAGES:

022000Biehl 26 Deodorants / APs Evaluation of AP/Deo Sticks with Cetiol ® CC Rec. DE 99/250/30 Evaluation: Dicaprylyl Carbonate65 Hydroxystearic Acid10Market formula Rezal 36 GP25 Hardness++++ Gloss (Stick surface) yesno Sensorial feelingexcellentgood White residue (in vitro)nolittle White residue (in vivo) lessyes

022000Biehl 27 Deodorants / APs Suspension stick with Cetiol ® CC - white residues on sheets

022000Biehl 28 Skin Cleansing METHOD: Development of benchmark formula which is similar in terms of ingredients & percentage to standard market formulations Substitution of emollient in this formula to evaluate their cleansing properties Product quantity: 1.0 g Milk Defined application Evaluation in comparison to benchmark ADVANTAGES: Improvement of cleansing abilities of make-up remover

022000Biehl 29 Skin Cleansing Benchmark formula for Skin Cleansing Test IngredientsINCI w/w % Emulgade ® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate Lanette ® OCetearyl Alcohol0.5 Mineraloil Paraffinum Liquidum7.5 IPPIsopropyl Palmitate7.5 WaterAqua78.5 Perfume, Preservativeq.s.

022000Biehl 30 Skin Cleansing Reference Formula for Skin Cleansing Test Ingredients INCI w/w % Emulgade ® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate Lanette ® OCetearyl Alcohol0.5 Mineral OilParaffinum Liquidum6.0 IPPIsopropyl Palmitate6.0 Emollient3.0 Water Aqua78.5 Perfume, Preservativeq.s.

022000Biehl 31 Skin Cleansing METHOD: Lipstick Foundation Mascara Rest time: 10 minutes

022000Biehl 32 Skin Cleansing Cegesoft ® C24 Cetiol ® LC Myritol ® PC Benchmark Cyclomethicone Cetiol ® A Make-up remover efficacy reducedimproved Cetiol ® CC Cetiol ® OE

022000Biehl 33

022000Biehl 34 BACK-UP CHARTS

022000Biehl 35 Dry, volatile silicon oil like skin feel O/W - Rec. 99/239/6 (with Cetiol ® CC) vs. Rec. 99/239/4 (with Cyclomethicone = 0-Line); n = 10 human volunteers, pair comparison test Pick-up Consistency Peaking Cushion Distribution Absorption I Absorption II Smoothness Tackiness Oiliness Waxiness Powdery good high much easy fast high little much less good low little difficult slow little much little Skin Care

022000Biehl 36 Deodorants / APs Sprayable Antiperspirant with Cetiol ® CC Rec. DE 99/237/1 Ingredients INCIw/w % Emulgade ® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate Eumulgin ® B 2Ceteareth Cetiol ® CCDicaprylyl Carbonate5.0 Cetiol ® LCCoco-Caprylate / Caprate5.0 Water Aqua30.0 Locron L 50 % Aluminum Chlorohydrate40.0 WaterAqua15.0 Perfume, Preservativeq.s.