Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A Natural Affinity?

Chapter 12 Outline Aperitif: Cheese - an inspiration and an education Wine and Cheese Pairing Fresh and Soft Cheeses Semi-soft Cheeses Soft-ripened Cheeses Firm Cheeses Hard Cheeses Blue-veined Cheeses

Chapter 12 Key Concepts Balance and harmony between wine and cheese Limitations of red wine with cheese The impact of cheese type and wine friendliness

The Inspiring Relationship of Wine and Cheese The main reason people consume wine and cheese together is that they enjoy the combination. Wine acts to cleanse the palate. This occurs due to a basic “washing” action as well as increased saliva production caused by tannic wines and ethanol (alcohol). This cleansing process minimizes sensory fatigue. Alternating with bites of food helps to freshen the palate for more wine.

Other Cheese and Wine Interactions The fat, proteins and acid inherent in cheese combine with acids and tannin in wine to soften the impact of acidity, bitter and astringent sensations that are typical of most white and red wines. The dilution of alcohol when wine is consumed with cheese, in particular, is thought to promote the release of wine aromatics and creating a more pleasant finish.

Inspiring Relationships of Wine and Cheese Continued Artisan cheese makers and knowledgeable restaurateurs create an opportunity for the general public to maximize this enjoyment. One such cheese maker is Etienne Boissy, the 2004 winner of the “trades of the mouth” category in cheese, in France’s annual craftsman/artisan competition Le Concours du Meilleur Ouvrier de France. The contest rewards: include manual skills, intelligence, imagination, taste, technicality, courage and perseverance.

Categories of Cheese The 6 categories of cheese include: fresh, semi-fresh, soft-ripened, firm, hard, and blue-veined.

Fresh and Soft Cheeses Relatively mild and creamy - neither cooked nor ripened. A high moisture content, ranging from %. Do not taste overly acidic or bitter. Not intended to be part of a cheese course. Generally, used as ingredients in other dishes. Examples include: cottage, cream, fromage blanc, mascarpone, Neufchatel, and ricotta.

Semi-Soft Cheeses Include a variety of mild, buttery types that have a sliceable texture. Moisture content ranges from 40-50%. Flavors range from mild to funky. Retain a buttery flavor, and often take on some nutty characteristics. Typically not as pungent as other general styles. Their origin is often traced back to monasteries. Examples: Bel Paese, Doux de Montagne, Edam, Fontina.

Soft-Ripened Cheeses Ripened from the outside in. Can be firm when young and turn soft and runny when mature or ripe. Double and triple cram versions can be described as “gooey”. Fat content ranges from 50-75%. Smooth and rich texture. They have a tendency to coat the mouth. Flavors are mild to intense depending on aging process Many originate from France. Examples: Brie, Brillat Savarin, Limburger

Firm Cheeses Generally have subtlety, a refined texture, and a pleasant, lingering finish. Vary in degree of mildness or sharpness depending on the aging process. Their flavor can range form nutty to buttery and caramel. Examples: Cantal, Cheddar Double, Gloucester, Emmenthaler

Hard Cheeses Referred to as the “grating cheeses”. Moisture content is around 30%. Texture is hard and many times granular and crumbly. Flavors are often sharp, nutty, pungent, and piquant. Flavor results from extended periods of aging. Commonly served as part of cheese board, with salad, or grated and used as a finishing ingredient. The most famous hard cheeses are from Italy. Examples: Asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Ricotta Salata.

Blue-Veined Cheeses Often quite pungent and salty. Have a distinctive appearance, smell, and taste. The molds of Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium glaucum are used to create some blue-green cheeses. Textures range from semi-soft to hard. Examples: Cambrazzola, Gorgonzola Magtag Blue, Stilton.

Wine Styles Appropriate for Each Category of Cheese 1. Fresh and soft cheeses: 1. Fresh and soft cheeses: usually can be matched effectively with lighter, dry to off-dry, whites and some low-tannin, higher acidic reds. 2. Semi-soft cheeses: 2. Semi-soft cheeses: are relatively wine-friendly as long as wines do not overpower them. Most of these cheeses can be served with many whites, reds, and dessert wines. 3. Soft-ripened cheeses: 3. Soft-ripened cheeses: can be successfully matched with regional red wines and some dessert wines. However, the classic match for these cheeses is Champagne, and other sparklers are suggested as matches.

Wine Styles Appropriate for Each Category of Cheese Continued 4. Firm cheeses: 4. Firm cheeses: is the most wine-friendly of cheese categories. Mild cheddars should be paired with light wines and sharp cheddars with full-bodied wines. 5. Hard cheeses: 5. Hard cheeses: are very wine friendly and versatile. 6. Blue-veined cheeses: 6. Blue-veined cheeses: a classic pairing with fortified and dessert wines.

Cheese Elements that Limit Wine Choices Region differences, aging, vintage, and processing techniques (in both the wine and cheese) will impact match. As with other wine and food matches, components, texture, and flavor elements affect the quality of each match. Firm cheeses and hard cheeses are the easiest to pair with wine.

Basic Wine and Cheese Pairing Guidelines Light white wines with light cheeses. High acid white wines with high acid cheeses. Low acid wines with lower acid cheeses. Strong wines with strong cheeses. Dessert wines with strong, salty cheeses.

Wine Suggestions with Examples of Fresh and Soft Cheeses Type: Boursin (France) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; cream to pale yellow, no rind. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; cream to pale yellow, no rind. Components, Textures, Flavors: triple-cream, smooth, creamy. Usually flavored with herbs, garlic and pepper. Components, Textures, Flavors: triple-cream, smooth, creamy. Usually flavored with herbs, garlic and pepper. Wine Suggestions: dry white wines, Sancerre, fruity, low tannin reds, Beaujolais, Lemberger. Wine Suggestions: dry white wines, Sancerre, fruity, low tannin reds, Beaujolais, Lemberger. Type: Mascarpone Milk Used and Color: cow’s; pale yellow. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; pale yellow. Components, Textures, Flavors: slight tanginess, soft and smooth, buttery. Components, Textures, Flavors: slight tanginess, soft and smooth, buttery. Wine Suggestions: off-dry champagne or sparkling wine, Moscato d’Asti, most dessert wines. Wine Suggestions: off-dry champagne or sparkling wine, Moscato d’Asti, most dessert wines.

Wine Suggestions with Examples of Semi-Soft Cheeses Type: Livarot (France) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; orange rind with golden yellow center. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; orange rind with golden yellow center. Components, Textures, Flavors: semi-soft, pungent, intense flavor and slightly piquant. Components, Textures, Flavors: semi-soft, pungent, intense flavor and slightly piquant. Wine Suggestions: Tokay, Pinot Gris from Alsace, Pinot Grigio, Reisling, a young Bordeaux from the Pomerol district, or New World Merlot. Wine Suggestions: Tokay, Pinot Gris from Alsace, Pinot Grigio, Reisling, a young Bordeaux from the Pomerol district, or New World Merlot. Type: Taleggio (Italy) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; light yellow. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; light yellow. Components, Textures, Flavors: creamy, and semi-soft texture that turns runny as it ages. Components, Textures, Flavors: creamy, and semi-soft texture that turns runny as it ages. Wine Suggestions: Italian Vin Santo (Tuscany), young Merlot or dessert wines such as late harvest Riesling or Sauternes. Wine Suggestions: Italian Vin Santo (Tuscany), young Merlot or dessert wines such as late harvest Riesling or Sauternes.

Wine Suggestions with Examples of Soft-Ripened Cheeses Type: Limburger (German) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; brown exterior with light yellow interior. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; brown exterior with light yellow interior. Components, Textures, Flavors: soft, smooth and waxy. A very strong aroma, sharp, salty and pungent. Components, Textures, Flavors: soft, smooth and waxy. A very strong aroma, sharp, salty and pungent. Wine Suggestions: lots of Beer. Wine Suggestions: lots of Beer. Type: Camembert (France) Milk Used and Color: cow’s or goat’s; pale yellow with white exterior. Milk Used and Color: cow’s or goat’s; pale yellow with white exterior. Components, Textures, Flavors: soft and creamy, slightly tangy. A slightly more robust flavor than brie. Components, Textures, Flavors: soft and creamy, slightly tangy. A slightly more robust flavor than brie. Wine Suggestions: rich, aged Chardonnay, sparkling wines, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine Suggestions: rich, aged Chardonnay, sparkling wines, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Suggestions with Examples of Firm Cheeses Type: Cheshire (England) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; light to medium yellow, sometimes with blue marbling. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; light to medium yellow, sometimes with blue marbling. Components, Textures, Flavors: hard texture and mellow to piquant. Tangy with a crumbly texture. Components, Textures, Flavors: hard texture and mellow to piquant. Tangy with a crumbly texture. Wine Suggestions: Riesling, ale, Cabernet Sauvignon Wine Suggestions: Riesling, ale, Cabernet Sauvignon Type: Provelone (Italy). Milk Used and Color: cow’s, pale yellow or brown. Milk Used and Color: cow’s, pale yellow or brown. Components, Textures, Flavors: elastic to hard, salty, mild to sharp flavor. May be smoked. Components, Textures, Flavors: elastic to hard, salty, mild to sharp flavor. May be smoked. Wine Suggestions: Chianti, Chianti Riserva, Syrah, Barolo, Chardonnay. Wine Suggestions: Chianti, Chianti Riserva, Syrah, Barolo, Chardonnay.

Wine Suggestions with Examples of Hard Cheeses Type: Asiago (Italy) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; pale yellow. Milk Used and Color: cow’s; pale yellow. Components, Textures, Flavors: Semi-soft to hard texture, mild to sharp flavor. Components, Textures, Flavors: Semi-soft to hard texture, mild to sharp flavor. Wine Suggestions: Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano, a dry rosé. Wine Suggestions: Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano, a dry rosé. Type: Pecorino (Italy) Milk Used and Color: sheep’s; pale yellow. Milk Used and Color: sheep’s; pale yellow. Components, Textures, Flavors: hard, dry and crumbly texture. Very sharp flavor. Components, Textures, Flavors: hard, dry and crumbly texture. Very sharp flavor. Wines Suggestions: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Italy), a variety of whites and medium-bodied reds such as Barbera. Wines Suggestions: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Italy), a variety of whites and medium-bodied reds such as Barbera.

Wine Suggestions with Examples of Blue-Veined Cheeses Type: Cambrazzola (German) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; light yellow interior with blue marbling. Components, Textures, Flavors: semi-soft and fairly smooth texture. Buttery, tangy and peppery. A cross of Camembert and Gorgonzola. Wines Suggestions: New World Merlot, Italian Sangiovese, Chardonnay. Type: Magtag Blue (U.S.) Milk Used and Color: cow’s; yellow with blue streaks Components, Textures, Flavors: hard and crumbly texture. Strong flavor and salty. Wine Suggestions: Allegrini Recioto (Italian red – off-dry and raisined), Austrian Grüner-Veltliner, Madeira.

Chapter 12 Lagniappe “Something extra” What’s wrong with this wine and cheese match?

What’s wrong with Brie and Cabernet Sauvignon? At a recent food and wine dinner, a student team elected to serve a smoked Brie with an Australian Cabernet Sauvignon. The average level of perceived match when tasted together was only 3.5 out of 10 points. What went wrong? Was the poor score based on a mismatch in: –Components? –Texture? –Flavor elements?

Specific Food and Wine Selections Food item: Smoked Brie with spiced pecans, roasted garlic, and apple compote. Wine selection: 2001 Wynn’s Coonawana Australia Cabernet Sauvignon

Figure 11.2C: Components Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie COMPONENTS FOOD1FOOD1 WINE1WINE1 Sweetness Acidity Saltiness Bitterness Dry to Sweet Acidity Effervescence 0510 Basic components profile

Figure 11.2C: Components Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie COMPONENTS FOOD1FOOD1 WINE1WINE1 Sweetness Acidity Saltiness Bitterness Dry to Sweet Acidity Effervescence 0510 Sweetness mismatch

Figure 11.2C: Components Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie COMPONENTS FOOD1FOOD1 WINE1WINE1 Sweetness Acidity Saltiness Bitterness Dry to Sweet Acidity Effervescence 0510 Acidity mismatch – apple compote and lactic acid in Brie

Figure 11.2C: Components Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie COMPONENTS FOOD1FOOD1 WINE1WINE1 Sweetness Acidity Saltiness Bitterness Dry to Sweet Acidity Effervescence 0510 Saltiness and Bitterness is fine

Top Section of Figure 11.4: Components Impact on Predicted Match: Smoked Brie & Cabernet ComponentsSimilarityContrastScore Sweetness Match_____________ _ 0 _ Sweetness Match_____________ _ 0 _ (Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0) (Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0) Acidity Match_________ X __ _ 0 _ Acidity Match_________ X __ _ 0 _ (Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0) (Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0) Low to Moderate Levels of Food Saltiness_.5 _ Low to Moderate Levels of Food Saltiness_.5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0) (Yes=.5, No=0) Low to Moderate Levels of Food Bitterness_.5 _ Low to Moderate Levels of Food Bitterness_.5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0) (Yes=.5, No=0) Moderate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level Match Moderate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level Match (Yes=1, No=0)_____ (Yes=1, No=0)_____ High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match) No Match High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match) No Match Components Subtotal___ 1 ___

Top Section of Figure 11.4: Components Impact on Predicted Match: Smoked Brie & Cabernet ComponentsSimilarityContrastScore Sweetness Match_____________ _ 0 _ Sweetness Match_____________ _ 0 _ (Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0) (Food Sweetness < or = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0) Acidity Match_________ X __ _ 0 _ Acidity Match_________ X __ _ 0 _ (Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0) (Food Acid < or = Wine Acidity Yes=1, No=0) Low to Moderate Levels of Food Saltiness_.5 _ Low to Moderate Levels of Food Saltiness_.5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0) (Yes=.5, No=0) Low to Moderate Levels of Food Bitterness_.5 _ Low to Moderate Levels of Food Bitterness_.5 _ (Yes=.5, No=0) (Yes=.5, No=0) Moderate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level Match Moderate-High Food Saltiness or Bitterness and Wine Effervescence Level Match (Yes=1, No=0)_____ (Yes=1, No=0)_____ High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match) No Match High Levels of Food Salt or Bitterness (Yes=No Match) No Match Components Subtotal___ 1 ___ Smoked Brie and Cabernet Sauvignon did not have a match in sweetness level nor with acidity in this preparation. No excessive saltiness or bitterness existed in the food item

Figure 11.2C: Texture Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie TEXTURE F2F2 WINE2WINE2 Fattiness Overall Body Tannin Alcohol Overall Body 0510 Basic texture profile

Figure 11.2C: Texture Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie TEXTURE F2F2 WINE2WINE2 Fattiness Overall Body Tannin Alcohol Overall Body 0510 The fat level of the Brie is not a great match with the tannin in this wine.

Figure 11.2C: Texture Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie TEXTURE F2F2 WINE2WINE2 Fattiness Overall Body Tannin Alcohol Overall Body 0510 The body of the Cabernet overwhelms the smoked Brie

Middle Section of Figure 11.4: Texture Impact on Predicted Match: Smoked Brie & Cabernet TextureSimilarityContrastScore TextureSimilarityContrastScore Food Fattiness and Wine Tannin Match_ 0 _ Food Fattiness and Wine Tannin Match_ 0 _ (Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0) (Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0) Food Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity Match_ 0 _ Food Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity Match_ 0 _ (Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0) (Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0) Food and Wine Body Match____________ _ 0 _ Food and Wine Body Match____________ _ 0 _ (Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0) (Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0) Texture Subtotal___ 0 ___

Middle Section of Figure 11.4: Texture Impact on Predicted Match: Smoked Brie & Cabernet TextureSimilarityContrastScore TextureSimilarityContrastScore Food Fattiness and Wine Tannin Match_ 0 _ Food Fattiness and Wine Tannin Match_ 0 _ (Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0) (Food Fattiness = Wine Tannin Yes=1, No=0) Food Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity Match_ 0 _ Food Fattiness (Vegetable Fat) and Wine Acidity Match_ 0 _ (Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0) (Food Fattiness = Wine Acid Yes=1, No=0) Food and Wine Body Match____________ _ 0 _ Food and Wine Body Match____________ _ 0 _ (Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0) (Food Overall Body = Wine Overall Body Yes=1, No=0) Texture Subtotal___ 0 ___ Texture, tannin and body mismatches are keys to the overall poor level of perceived match between the smoked Brie and Cabernet.

Figure 11.2C: Flavors Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie FLAVORS F3F3 W3W3 Spicy Intensity Persistence Spicy Intensity Persistence 0510 Basic flavor profile Hot Mint

Figure 11.2C: Flavors Wine: Wynn’s Cab Sauv Food: Smoked Brie FLAVORS F3F3 W3W3 Spicy Intensity Persistence Spicy Intensity Persistence 0510 Hot Mint Hot spice in the pecans overpowers the mint of the Cabernet! Flavor intensity and persistency are not a bad match

Lower Section of Figure 11.4: Flavor Impact on Predicted Match: Smoked Brie & Cabernet Flavor SimilarityContrastScore Flavor SimilarityContrastScore Low to Moderate Spice Level Match ______ _______ 0 _ Low to Moderate Spice Level Match ______ _______ 0 _ (Food Spiciness = Wine Spiciness Yes=1, No=0) (Food Spiciness = Wine Spiciness Yes=1, No=0) Moderate Food Spice and Wine Sweetness ______ ______ _ 0 _ Moderate Food Spice and Wine Sweetness ______ ______ _ 0 _ (Food Spiciness = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0) (Food Spiciness = Wine Sweetness Yes=1, No=0) High Levels of Food Spice No Match High Levels of Food Spice No Match Flavor Intensity Match_ 1 _ Flavor Intensity Match_ 1 _ (Food Intensity = Wine Intensity Yes=1, No=0) (Food Intensity = Wine Intensity Yes=1, No=0) Flavor Type Match ______ _______ 0 _ Flavor Type Match ______ _______ 0 _ (Flavors similar or contrasting Yes=1, No=0) (Flavors similar or contrasting Yes=1, No=0) Flavor Persistency Match_ 1 _ Flavor Persistency Match_ 1 _ (Food Persistence = Wine Persistence Yes=1, No=0) (Food Persistence = Wine Persistence Yes=1, No=0) Subtotal Flavor____ 2 ____

Figure 11.4: Total Predicted match Score Food Item: Smoked Brie & Cabernet Components Subtotal____ 1 ____ Texture Subtotal ____ 0 ____ Subtotal Flavor ____ 2 ____ Total Predicted Match ____ 3 ____

Conclusions on Match The predicted match using the decision tree format indicated a match level of around 3 out of 10 for the smoked brie and Cabernet. The average across a group tasting them together rated the match at 3.5 out of 10. Match level varies substantially by individual. The range of match level across all tasters at this dinner varied from 1 to 9 out of 10 points in this mixed tasting.