6 Chapter Textile Fibers and Yarns

Objectives List the main characteristics of natural and manufactured fabrics. Explain how fibers are manufactured. Summarize the role of leather and fur as primary materials in fashion. Describe new fiber innovations. Explain how fibers are made into yarns.

Chapter 6 Raw Materials Creating fashion goods begins with attention to their raw materials Fibers have unique properties that influence appearance, strength, absorbency, warmth, shrinkage, and price Fibers can be divided into two groups natural fibers manufactured fibers, also called synthetic fibers

Natural Fibers Natural fibers come from natural sources, such as plants and animals Cellulosic fibers come from plants Examples: cotton and linen Protein fibers come from animal sources Example: wool and silk The quality of natural fibers can vary continued

Natural Fibers Staple fibers are short (less than 8 inches) Longer lengths of staple fibers are considered to be better quality than short lengths Long, continuous fibers are called filaments (measured in yards or meters) Silk is the only natural filament fiber Most natural fibers are comfortable, easy to dye, and prone to wrinkling and shrinking

Cotton Cotton is a cellulosic fiber that comes from the “bolls” (seed pods) of cotton plants the most popular fiber in the global market soft, durable, and very comfortable to wear New finishing treatments have reduced the fiber’s tendency to shrink when washed and wrinkle

Fashion Insights “Environmentally friendly” cotton is grown in a range of colors This eliminates the toxic waste and expense of chemical processing and dyeing The cotton has a luxurious feel and does not fade with washing and drying Its fibers are shorter and weaker than fibers of conventional white cotton

Wool Wool is a protein fiber from the hair (fleece) of sheep or lambs Worsted yarns are yarns with long staple wool fibers (more than 2 inches in length) Shorter wool fibers are used in less expensive woolen fabrics Wool is a versatile fiber with many end uses Examples of apparel: sweaters, coats, suits Other examples: blankets, rugs, upholstery continued

Wool The terms pure wool, virgin wool, and 100% wool are interchangeable They indicate new fibers that have never been used New wool is softer, stronger, and more resilient than recycled wool Recycled wool fibers are recovered from previously made wool fabrics

Silk Silk is a protein fiber from cocoons spun by silkworms Silk is Workers soak them in warm water and unwind the long, natural filament fibers Silk is known for its beauty, strength, and luster as well as it high cost of production, limited durability, and special-care needs imported mainly from China, Japan, and Thailand

Flax (Linen) Flax is Fabric made from flax fiber, called linen, the world’s oldest textile fiber a stiff, absorbent cellulosic fiber made from the stem of the flax plant mainly imported from Europe Fabric made from flax fiber, called linen, is known for its beauty and strength has a tendency to crease and wrinkle

Other Natural Fibers Ramie—a cellulosic fiber from the stalks of a woody, leafed plant called China grass Jute, sisal, raffia, and hemp—other natural cellulosic fibers from plants Camel hair, angora, mohair, cashmere, llama, vicuña, and alpaca—protein “specialty hair fibers” Down—a fluffy feather undercoating of geese and ducks

Industry Facts No marketing efforts were made for natural fibers until manufactured fibers started to compete with them in the mid-1900s This caused natural fiber producers to work together to provide products with more desirable characteristics The result is blends and finishes that give natural fibers wrinkle resistance and easier care

Marketing Natural Fibers Natural fiber trade associations promote the favorable characteristics of their fibers Cotton Incorporated is a marketing and research organization National Cotton Council of America is the central organization of the cotton industry Almost all fiber trade associations provide fabric libraries that contain sample fabrics continued

Marketing Natural Fibers Silk and linen do not currently have marketing organizations in the United States Other marketing organizations include American Sheep Industry Association International Wool Textile Organization Mohair Council of America Alpaca United

Leather and Fur Leather and fur are from the hides or pelts (skins) of animals Though worn since before recorded history, their use is controversial today Artificial substitutes have been developed to copy their look and feel Real leather and fur are quite expensive since supply is limited and processing is complicated

Leather Leather is a tough, flexible material made by preserving animal hides Tanning converts the hides into finished leather Tanned hides come in pieces of various sizes Hides are a by-product of the meat-packing industry The supply of leather in this country depends on the demand for meat rather than leather continued

Leather Cattlehide is the most dominant leather used in apparel. Reptile skins are also used in fashion products New leather finishes, textures, and colors result from specialized machinery and innovative tanning methods Top grain leather is the high quality “genuine leather” used in most consumer products

Marketing of Leather Because of long processing time, fashion trends for leather must be decided 2 years or more in advance Advertising is done by product designers and manufacturers, not tanners and finishers The primary trade association for leather tanners is the Leather Industries of America continued

Marketing of Leather Tanners introduce their leathers in several different trade shows each year which attract garment manufacturers, equipment suppliers, and retailers The Leather Association disseminates consumers information including how to care for leather goods the latest leather fashion trends

Fur Fur is the soft, hairy coat of an animal Processed fur pelts are used for “prestige” apparel and accessories The fur industry includes animal pelt producers, fur processors, and product manufacturers Most are small companies with highly skilled workers continued

Fur Fur processors “dress” the pelts to make them soft, flexible, and more suitable for use in consumer products Product manufacturers make them into finished coats, jackets, garment trimmings, and accessories The U.S. is known for producing top quality furs, many of which go to foreign markets

Marketing of Fur Pelt producers, fur processors, and product manufacturers work together to promote fur products through trade associations Fur Age is the main trade journal for fur industry businesses furs.com, its sister company, is an online consumer magazine continued

Marketing of Fur Fur garment sales occur through showrooms of furriers or leased departments within stores With consignment selling, the retailer accepts merchandise to sell, but does not own it Concerned consumers prefer “faux” (artificial) furs The Fur Information Council of America was formed to combat anti-fur activity and project a positive image of the fur industry

Manufactured Fibers Manufactured fibers are created in laboratories Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made from plant sources such as wood pulp plus chemicals that “regenerate” the cellulose Noncellulosic manufactured fibers (“synthetic” fibers) are made from petrochemical mixtures of crude oil, natural gas, air, and water

Steps to Manufacture Fibers Solid raw materials are melted with heat or dissolved by chemicals to form a thick liquid The liquid is forced through a spinneret, which is a nozzle with many tiny holes Each hole forms a filament fiber The filaments are stretched and hardened to become usable fibers

Categories of Manufactured Fibers Manufactured fibers are categorized by generic groups A generic name identifies each family of manufactured fiber with similar chemical composition Most generic groups contain variants Each variant is a manufactured fiber modified slightly during production Variants are given trade (or brand) names continued

Categories of Manufactured Fibers The trade name or trademark and the fiber-making process are registered with the U.S. Patent Office These cost more than commodity fibers Commodity fibers, sold by generic groups, are not identified with a specific maker They have no quality assurance and are imported from foreign countries

Fashion Insights Manufactured fibers have some qualities that are unique or superior to those of natural fibers, such as strength or elasticity Some manufactured fibers feel clammy when worn because they do not absorb moisture Nonabsorbent fibers also build static electricity that causes them to “spark” and cling to the wearer

Characteristics of Manufactured Fibers It is important for people interested in fashion merchandising to know the advantages, disadvantages, and typical uses of each group Polyester is the largest selling manufactured fiber Olefin has excellent wicking ability Wicking is the dispersing or spreading of moisture, such as pulling body moisture to the fabric’s surface where it can evaporate

Industry Facts The United States is the world’s leading innovator and producer of manufactured fibers Innovation is the creative, forward-thinking introduction of new ideas Fiber chemists link molecules of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen into long chains of compounds called polymers

Fiber Innovation The polymers are engineered in the lab to meet specific needs, such as flame resistance Limited quantities of a new or modified manufactured fiber are usually first produced in a pilot plant on an experimental basis This small-scale trial production uses commercial methods to make enough fiber to check its behavior in fabrics and end uses continued

Fiber Innovation Strong competition to create new variants exists among manufactured fiber producers New trademarks appear continually, replacing old ones that are discontinued Manufactured fiber producers help fabric companies with new yarn ideas and with evaluating consumer reaction to the fabrics made from their new fibers

The Latest Fiber Trends Lyocell is a fairly new generic group It is a cellulosic manufactured fiber that is environmentally friendly Other new fibers are being developed from annually renewable resources, such as corn and soybeans Rayon is being made from bamboo, which grows fast continued

The Latest Fiber Trends A recycling process can turn plastic soft drink bottles into “earth friendly” fibers for apparel Microfibers (microdenier fibers) are popular Denier is the term used to describe fiber thickness or diameter Microdeniers are ultra-fine, being less than one denier per filament (about half the thickness of fine silk) continued

The Latest Fiber Trends The addition of spandex fiber to make stretchable fabrics is another trend Nanotechnology is the altering of materials atom by atom at the molecular level This control of tiny measurements is playing a greater role in developing new fiber properties People must be educated about how to use and care for each new fiber innovation

Marketing Manufactured Fibers For popularity in the market, manufactured fibers compete with each other as well as with natural fibers Producers sell new fibers to fabric manufacturers as unbranded commodities or as brand-name fibers Trademarked variants assure consumers that the quality of the fiber has been controlled continued

Marketing Manufactured Fibers Chemical companies that produce fibers maintain a steady flow of advertising and publicity to trade and consumer markets Often cooperative advertising is done to share costs, such as by a manufacturer and a retailer The American Fiber Manufacturers Association, Inc. promotes the use of manufactured fibers

Spinning Fibers into Yarns Yarn production follows fiber production The process of spinning draws, twists, and winds fibers into long, cohesive strands Monofilament yarns are simply single filaments, usually of a high denier Multifilament yarns are made by twisting together many single filaments to make a thicker strand continued

Spinning Fibers into Yarns Staple fibers go through a mechanical spinning process that forms a continuous strand Ply yarns are formed by twisting together two or more single yarns Each yarn strand is called a ply Staple fibers are sometimes left unspun for filling pillows or comforters This is called fiberfill

Yarn Blends and Textures Yarn characteristics can be changed by varying the fiber content A blend is made when two or more fibers are put together before being spun into yarn Different percentages of fibers in blends produce specific results Combination yarns contain two or more yarn plys, each of different fibers continued

Yarn Blends and Textures Another form of combination yarn might mix yarns of various fiber compositions or twist levels Yarns of manufactured fibers are usually textured by processing with chemicals, heat, or special machinery Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns

Marketing Yarn The National Council of Textile Organizations has four separate councils representing the fiber, fabric, supplier, and yarn industries This organization deals with trade laws, customs regulations, packaging, labeling, and product standards collects economic data to anticipate trends holds seminars and workshops for members

Fashion Insights Raw materials play a vital role in the design, uses, and care qualities of finished fabrics The two types of natural fibers are cellulosic fibers from plants protein fibers from animals sources Leather and fur are also raw materials used in fashion products

In Summary Manufactured fibers are either cellulosic or noncellulosic Fiber innovation is achieved by engineering the long chains of chemical compounds called polymers The spinning process twists fibers into monofilament, multifilament, or spun yarns