Consumer perspectives on eco- labelling of textiles Results from five European countries Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø National Institute for Consumer Research (SIFO)

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø The role of the consumer Eco-labels is presented as a solution to environmental challenges in the textile industry. Eco-labelling presupposes a relatively rational actor, able to seek and process information and willing to act upon that information. Consumers are ascribed roles as acting and morally responsible persons. Are European consumers ready to take on this responsibility?

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Research questions I.How do consumers consider the relevant labelling schemes for textiles? II.What are the consumers’ attitudes and practices regarding eco- labelling of textiles? III.Who do the consumers consider to be the responsible actors?

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Data Data from France, England, Norway, Sweden and Germany. Approximately 1000 respondents in each country. Data collected through TNS’ web panels. Data collection period ( – ).

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø General attitudes “Labelling helps me make better choices when I am shopping”. Per cent proportions. (F= 13,795; p=.000, one-way ANOVA).

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø EU flower Consumer associations with the official EU eco-label, the EU-Flower. Per cent proportions. N= 5186.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø The Nordic Swan Norwegian and Swedish consumers’ associations with the Nordic eco- label. Per cent proportions. N= 2088

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Differences in gobal and national labels Respondents are much more familiar with the national labels than with the global labels. Global labels are in general much younger than national labels. National labels have to a greater extent been promoted by governments. The respondents might also be more familiar with the labels with a broad scope thant the labels that are exclusively used on textiles. Respondents from Norway are least aware of the global labels. Respondents from Germany seem to be most confident on the meaning of the labels.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Considerations when buying textiles Think about the last time you were buying clothes for yourself or someone in your household. How concerned were you about the following aspects? Numbers shown are the percentage who answered that the respective interest is their first priority.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Allowed for environmental considerations when buying clothes and textiles for yourself? Per cent proportions. N = 5165.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Considerations when buying textiles. Per cent proportions. Respondents answering “don’t know” have been excluded. Total N = 5076.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Political consumption? Respondents who argue that environmental considerations are important, also emphasises fair trade, health and to a certain extent quality. Respondents who emphasise design also argue that price, colour and quality are important for them when buying textiles. Respondents from Sweden and Germany are the ones that claim to be most concerned about environment, fair trade and health.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Best strategies? «Which of the following strategies do you think are the best for the environment, and which are the worst?”. Numbers shown are the percentage who answered that the respective strategy is best. Per cent proportions.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Availability «I know where to shop if I want to buy eco-labelled clothes and textiles”. Per cent proportions. Total N = 5183.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Willingess to pay «I am willing to pay more for the clothes and textiles that I buy for myself if I am guaranteed that they have been produced in an environmentally friendly manner”. Per cent proportions. N = 5175.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Responsibility “I think that I have a responsibility as a consumer to buy products that are as environmentally friendly as possible”. N= 5160.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø “It is primarily the government’s job to implement measures to address environmental concerns in the textile and clothing industry”. N = 5155.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø “I trust the textile and clothing industry to take environmental considerations into account when producing their goods”. N = 5166.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Conclusions General support towards eco-labels. Varying consumer knowledge about the relevant labels for textiles – global vs. regional/national labels. German and Swedish respondents most concerned and knowledgeable. Women report to be more concerned than men. Environment is only one of several important considerations. Respondents arguing that environmental considerations are important also emphasise fair trade and health

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø A majority of the respondents in all countries argue that they have very much or quite a lot responsibility to buy products that is as environmentally friendly as possible. the respondents places a significant share of the responsibility on the governments even though they are ready to take action themselves. A moderate share of the respondents in all countries state that they trust the textile and clothing industry to take environmental considerations into account when producing their goods. These results indicates that there is a need for regulation, either through traditional regulations policies which stipulate mandatory products or process standards, or through new environmental policy instruments like eco-labels.

Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø Thank you for your attention! Marthe and Eivind