A Cosmetic Chemists Guide to Natural Formulating Standards Perry Romanowski Element 44 Inc

Natural Formulating

Involved in Natural Formulating Natural Formulating Course Blogging Audience Demand

Lots of interest in Natural Formulating

Learn how to create effective natural formula Online course Define Natural Explore functional natural ingredients Specific natural skin & hair formulations How to market natural products http://chemistscorner.com/natural-cosmetics

Scope Natural Cosmetic Market Natural Standards Groups Standards Should you get certified?

Natural Cosmetic Market $30 billion globally 2013

Small Natural Brands

Bought By Clorox For >$900 million Bought By Colgate For $100 million

Greenwashing

Modern Day Greenwashing Active Naturals Oat, Soy, Seaweed Oh yeah…. Dimethicone Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate

Natural has no legal definition

Media Chemical Fear Mongers

Natural Standards Groups

Major US Natural Standards Groups USDA National Sanitation Foundation National Product Association OASIS

Highest Standard - NPO USDA regulates term “organic” as it relates to agricultural products through its NOP regulation, 7 CFR Part 205 Label cosmetics as organic if they meet same criteria governing organic food certification

USDA – NPO labeling categories “100% Organic” – Contains only organically produced ingredients “Organic” – Contains 95% organic ingredients “Made with organic…” – Contains 70% organic ingredients Can’t use the seal

Most people follow USDA rules Labeling Confusion USDA labeling rules INCI labeling rules Most people follow USDA rules

NSF / ANSI Organic Standards Not as strict as USDA standards “Contains Organic Ingredients” 70% or more organic – O70 State exact percentage of organic content Harmonized with NaTrue in EU

Natural Product Association Standards “Protect & equip consumers to maximize their well being” Standards cover all FDA defined cosmetics For products labeled “Natural” Based on Natural ingredients Safety Responsibility Sustainability

International Natural Standards

COSMOS Standards Promote organic agriculture Use natural resources Clean processing and manufacture “Precautionary Principle” Integrate Green Chemistry principles

Principles of Green Chemistry

Whole Foods Standard Premium Body Care Standards Four key areas Results Source Environmental Impact Safety List of 400+ ingredients not allowed

Details of the Natural Standards

Definition of Natural Not Synthetically Derived or Synthetically processed If it’s not from a plant, it’s not natural USDA definition Other standards are not as strict

Common Standards Water is natural Mineral ingredients are natural Physically processed agro-materials are natural Some chemical processing of agro materials Some synthetics allowed

Some Prohibited Ingredients Parabens Formaldehyde Donors Petrolatum & petroleum derived Propylene glycols Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Ethanolamines Synthetic Silicones Synthetic Fragrances Synthetic Polymers EDTA

Differences in Standards Positive List – NPA, COSMOS Negative List – Whole Foods, NPA Nanoparticles – prohibited by COSMOS, Whole Foods. NPA? NSF? GMO – Prohibited by COSMOS Not by NPA Animal Testing – Prohibited by COSMOS

Some Chemistry Allowed Distillation Esterification & Etherification Expression Extraction Fat Splitting Fermentation Hydrogenation Protein Hydrolysis Saponification Sulfation – (no SLS)

How to get certified Learn the specifics of the certification Create your formulas Pay money to the certifying group Once you’re approved, you can use the label Continually get certified

Should you get Certified?

Should you get Certified? - Yes It appeals to consumers Stand apart from competition Get clear formulation guidance It may eventually be required

Should you get Certified? - No Consumers don’t know standards It costs money It restricts formulating / innovation You give up control

Should you get Certified?

Learn how to create effective natural formula Online course Define Natural Explore functional natural ingredients Specific natural skin & hair formulations How to market natural products Started 2/17/15 http://chemistscorner.com/natural-cosmetics