Linear Wave Theory (10pt) The maximum vertical particle velocity occurs at (1) Crest (2) trough (3) crossing-point.

Slides:



Advertisements
Similar presentations
Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean ©2003 Jones and Bartlett Publishers.
Advertisements

CHAPTER 8 Waves and Water Dynamics
Introduction to Oceanography Dynamic Oceanography: Waves.
Waves Energy can be transported by transfer of matter. For example by a thrown object. Energy can also be transported by wave motion without the transfer.
Chapter Twelve Waves.
Chapter 9: Waves and Water Dynamics Fig Waves are moving energy Forces cause waves to move along air/water or within water Wind (most surface ocean.
Waves. 2 3  Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force.  An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to.
WAVES.
Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site. Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course.
Waves. 2 3 Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force. An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to return.
Chapter 10 Waves Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Tsunamis, Internal waves
Chapter 16 Waves (I) What determines the tones of strings on a guitar?
Waves. Wave Terminology H = Height A = Amplitude = 1/2H L = λ = Wave Length ( distance 2 consecutive crests) T = Wave Period (Time between 2 consecutive.
Juan Carlos Ortiz Royero Ph.D.
Ocean Waves What causes ocean waves to form and move?
Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 1 ftp://ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu/opl/tommy/Geog3awinter2011/
Wave Theory Essential Question: What is a wave?. Answer Me!!!  Give an example of a wave. Then describe what that wave carries.
The interface between air and sea is almost always in motion…
Waves A wave is a rhythmic disturbance that carries energy through matter or space.
Chapter 11 Elasticity And Periodic Motion. Goals for Chapter 11 To follow periodic motion to a study of simple harmonic motion. To solve equations of.
Barry Latham Physics: Principles & Problems Glencoe Science, 2005.
Waves and Water Dynamics
WAVE Basics Chapters 15.
For this section we start with Hooke’s Law. But we already learned this. (partially)
Wave Term Review. Waves 1) A wave is any disturbance that transmits _____________ through matter and space.
Copyright © 2009 Pearson Education, Inc. Lecture 1 – Waves & Sound b) Wave Motion & Properties.
Wave Mechanics Physics 1. What is a wave? A wave is: an energy-transferring disturbance moves through a material medium or a vacuum.
Wave Motion. Conceptual Example: Wave and Particle Velocity Is the velocity of a wave moving along a cord the same as the velocity of a particle of a.
Chapter 10 Waves.
Chapter 11 Waves. Chapter 11.1 Notes Wave is a disturbance that transmits energy through matter and space. Medium is the matter through which a wave travels.
Surface Waves. Surface Wave A wave that has characteristics of both transverse and longitudinal waves (Ocean Waves). Surface Wave Applet.
Vibrations and Waves Waves Periodic Motion Periodic motion – a motion that repeats in a regular cycle. Simple harmonic motion – results when.
Wave Characteristics and Speed. a traveling disturbance that carries energy through matter or space matter moves horizontally or vertically just a little,
Types of Ocean waves. Capillary wave capillary wave, small, free, surface-water wave with such a short wavelength that its restoring force is the water’s.
Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves
WAVES. Understanding wave physics is important for human life (and not just for surfing) 1. A wave is the transmission of energy through matter – in this.
Waves in the Ocean. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. Parts of a wave are, Wave crest,Wave trough, Wave height (H), Wave Amplitude,
Unit 9 Notes Waves.
Ocean Waves Capillary Gravity Wind generated Tides Tsunamis Seiches.
Waves. Waves 3 Types of Waves Mechanical Waves: Wave motion that requires a medium (ie. water, sound, slinkies, …) Electromagnetic Waves: No medium is.
Chapter 10 Waves.
Ocean Waves Chapter 10 Oceanography.
Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean.
Chapter 13 Wave Motion.
Wave Breaking (10pt)  Which type of breaker for the steepest bottom slope?  Spilling breaker  Plunging breaker  X Surging breaker.
Light and Sound energy. Wave Definition A wave – is something that carries energy though matter or space. Waves transfer energy Energy spreads out as.
WAVES. Wave – propagation of energy through a medium. Speed is determined by the properties of the medium. Gravity waves – sufficiently large waves where.
Waves Chapter 9.
Waves and Water Dynamics
The Waves An Introduction to the World’s Oceans Sverdrup et al. - Chapter Ten - 8th Ed.
Chapter 17 – Mechanical Waves and Sound Mechanical Waves Water waves have two features common to all waves: 1. A wave is a traveling disturbance.
© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. W Waves and Water Dynamics Chapter 8.
Simple Harmonic Motion
WAVES.
Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface
Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)
Reflection & Standing waves
Unit 10: Part 1 Waves.
Waves and Sound Table of Contents What Are Waves? Properties of Waves
WAVE.
Waves Vocabulary.
Waves Page 49 in Notebook.
Sound Waves Notes
What are waves? A wave is a transfer of energy from one place to another. Waves take many forms. Wave Characteristics include: Amplitude Wavelength Frequency.
Waves.
What are waves? A wave is a transfer of energy from one place to another. Waves take many forms. Wave Characteristics include: Amplitude Wavelength Frequency.
Waves and Sound PHYS 1090 Unit 7.
Key areas Conditions for constructive and destructive interference.
Wave Vocabulary.
Linear Wave Theory (10pt)
Presentation transcript:

Linear Wave Theory (10pt) The maximum vertical particle velocity occurs at (1) Crest (2) trough (3) crossing-point

capillary waves (10pt)  What is the primary restoring force for capillary waves? (1) Coriolis force (2) Gravity force (3) Surface tension

Tsunamis (10pt)  What is the ratio of tsunami celerity at 400m waterdepth to that at 40m waterdepth?

Elastic Wave on Tensioned String (15pt) When Tension=300N, Mass/length=3kg/m, Circular frequency=10rad/s Find the corresponding wavelength!

Airy’s Linear Wave Theory (15pt) Wave length=120m, water depth=15m What is the wave period?

Celerity & Group Velocity (15pt) If a sinusoidal wave has the following dispersion relation between circular frequency w and wave number k w=3k Find its celerity and group velocity.

Celerity & Group Velocity (15pt)  When wavelength=80m at 6m water depth, what is the group velocity?

particle velocity (20pt)  When wavelength=80m at 6m water depth (same as previous question), what is the maximum horizontal particle velocity at the crest of 2-m wave amplitude?

Wave energy (20pt)  What is the total wave energy in one wavelength and along 1-km crest line in deep water for H=4m T=11s

Wave Power (20pt)  What is wave power in deep water per unit width of crest line? H=4m T=11s

Encounter Frequency: Doppler Effect (20pt) If ship speed is 6m/s and advancing in the same direction as a linear wave of length=120m in deep water, What is the encounter wave frequency observed from the ship?

Partial Standing Wave (30pt) When maximum and minimum free- surface elevations above MWL are 1m and 0.2m and the distance between them is 30m Find wave length and reflection coefficient!

Perfect Standing Wave (30pt) In Deepwater, Elevation of anti-node above MWL=4m Wave period=10s What is the magnitude of horizontal particle velocity 2m below the node?

Particle Orbit of Linear Wave (25pt) Wave length=100m, water depth=10m, wave height=2m What is the major semi-axis (longer radius) of the elliptical orbit at z=0?

Pressure (30pt) Wave length=100m, water depth=10m, wave height=2m (same as previous question) What is the static and dynamic pressure magnitude 3m below MWL?

Shoaling (30pt) In case of normal incidence and mild- slope seabed (neglect refraction and reflection) What is the new wavelength and wave height at depth=7m for 11s deepwater wave.