Hair conditioner Colloids CE 457/527 Juan Carlos Alva Nieto Ken-Tye Yong Anthony Rivers

What is hair conditioner? To restore hair to its natural state Undo damage by giving better look Containing cationic surfactants in combination with long chain fatty alcohol and other lipid components. leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable

Hair conditioner as consumer product Safety concern Toxicity Eyes injuries Irritation to the skin Colorants Visual appealing Preservation of consumer products Microbial contamination Spread of disease

Hair composition Morphological Cortex, Cuticle, Medulla. Intercellular cement Chemical 19 proteins: –Cystine –Keratin –Glutamic acid. –Leucine, etc.

Interactions of surfactants and polymer with hair Three main types of interactions: Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent bonds) Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds) Dispersion forces (van der waals attractions)

Emulsions Emulsion Mixture liquid / liquid Surfactant / amphiphilic. “Water in oil” W/O or “Oil in Water” O/W. Oil in Water O/W. Water in Oil W/O Microemulsion Spontaneous formation. Thermod stability. High solubilization capacity. Clear appearance.

Microemulsions and foams Microemulsions Liquid / liquid. Stability –Second surfactant. –Proteins, glucosoides, lipoids, sterols. –Size bubble. Foams Liquid / gas. Micronic layer Microscopic bubbles. Stability –Second surfactant. –Viscosity / liquid. –Proteins (Saponin, etc)

Reconstructer –Water-based Microemulsion Foam. –Solubilized proteins and amino acids. Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-. Carry and deposit in the hair surface. –Benefits. –Flexibility. –Repair damage. –Reduction in splits ends.

Formulation –Hair conditioner composition Anionic emulsifiersGlycerol stearate1.5 % Wt Cetyl alcohol3 % Wt Lubricant additivesStearyl dimethicone4 % Wt HumectantsGlycerin1.5 % Wt Propylene glycol1.5 % Wt PreservativesMetyl paraben0.30 % Wt CarrierDeionized water87 % Wt Fragance Not established.

Formulation –Reconstructer composition Hydrolyzed proteins Keratin, hydrogenated soy, yeast, wheat germ glycerides. Amino acidsCystine, aspartic acid, lauryl glutamate. Biological additives Casein, beer, eggs, nettle extract, etc. OtherVitamins B-12, Inositol, Paba, and Iron.

Adsorption How the reconstructer works? Attachment of the hair conditioner – fundamental. Adsorption is very important. (large species). Low enough molecular weight proteins Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.

Detanglers Objectives and purpose Removes tangles from hair Straighten curly and wavy hair Able to last for a long period Improve the texture of hair Easier to comb Imparts and glass like shine to hair

Ingredients used in detanglers De-ionized water (94.6 % wt) 1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2.5 % wt) Glycerin (humectants) (0.5 % wt) Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1.5 % wt) Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0.4% wt) Colorants (0.2 % wt) Fragrance (oil) (0.3 % wt)

Functions of ingredients Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants) Positively changed nitrogen atom allowed the cationic group to attach negatively charged surfaces Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair 1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) Act as solubilizers To form better microemulsion Thermodynamically stable system

Functions of ingredients Glycerin (humectants) Attracted to water Penetrate the cuticle Stabilize the moisture content within the hair shaft Soften and swell dry brittle hair Citrus acid (acidifiers) Dissolve the soap residue on the hair eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt

Making procedure Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W) Dissolve water-soluble ingredients. –60% water –Heat & Stirring. Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients. –Heat / melt solids. Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-. Add the remained water. Cool, add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH and viscosity.

Packaging reconstructers. Bottle. Used for the microemulsion. Pump finger foamer. Instant foaming action (foam). Mixture liquid/air No chemical propellant PET Easy to operate

Ingredients in Moisturizer deionized water % hetoxide G % Methyl Paraben.15 % disodium EDTA.10 % Hest CSO 10.0 % Hetol G 2.5 % Hetol CA 1.5 % Hetamid MA 1.0 %

Ingredients Continued Glyceryl Stearate.70 % Hetoxamate SA % Cocoa Butter.50 % Hest MS.50 % Hetsorb L % Propyl Paraben.05 % Kathon CG.07 % Glycerol- thickening agent

Production Machinery

Process Diagram

Colloidal Attributes Thickness –Makes hair thicker, fuller looking Ability to stay in hair –Some conditioners you can leave in all day Stability

Design Considerations Make hair soft/manageable –Gives it that shine Make hairs all lay the same way –Makes hair look smooth Seals cuticle layer –Prevents frizzing Prevent split ends

Surfactants used in Moisturizer Ability to form micelle Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts Form cross link

Marketing Considerations Labeling –Tells active ingredients Commercials –Shows results of using product Different needs for different hairs –Sum need more moisture –Some for dyed, color treated hairs

Packaging Materials used –Post consumer recycled plastics –Make containers soft, squeezable