3.2.8 Zigzag Weaves 1. Concept zigzag weave is a variation of the angled twill, which gives a zigzag appearance in the fabric, so it is called zigzag weave.

Fig.3.31 Zigzag weave The top points of the angled twill are in a horizontal line, and the top points of the zigzag twill are in a diagonal line. Each top point moves a number of threads which we called zigzag move. See Fig

2. Construction of the zigzag weaves (1)Choose base weave. (2)Determine K O which is the number of threads before changing direction. We can calculate the repeats after the zigzag move was chosen. The ends of each zigzag=(2K O -2)-m (m---the zigzag move) Repeat R O =The number of zigzag × the ends of each zigzag R y =base weave repeat

(3) Drawing the outline of each zigzag, and then drawing the first interlacing point at the first end. See Fig marked with “ ■ ” (4) Drawing the warp threads from 1 to K O according to the base weave, and drawing the other threads in the opposite direction until the last end of the first zigzag. (5) Drawing the other zigzag in the same way.

Example: Base weave 2/2 ↗,K O =8, M=3, draw the zigzag weave The ends of each zigzag =2×8-2-3=11 The number of the zigzag =4 R O =4 × 11 =44 R y =4

3. Applications The zigzag weaves are usually used for apparels, sheets and decorative fabrics. Fabric sample

3.2.9 Entwined Twills 1. Concept This is a variation of the broken twill. It is generally developed from a combination of even sided Z and S twills and gives the fabric a simulated lattice appearance. See Fig.3.33

Fig.3.33 Entwined twill Fabric sample

Pay attention to three points: 1) The repeat is always a multiple of the base twill repeat. 2) Generally choose even sided twill as base twill. 3) The number of twill lines in one repeat and the number of ends in one line depended on the new repeat and base weave.

Formulae for entwined twill: a) New repeat ÷ base twill repeat = number of twill lines in one repeat. b) New repeat ÷ 2 = number of ends in one line (length of line).

2. Weave drawn (1) Design the size of pattern, and calculate the repeats, lines in one repeat, length of the line as mentioned above. (2) Divide the repeat into two parts equally. Draw the first Z twill line according to the base weave in the left part.

(3) Draw the first S twill line by stepping up the base weave float in the right part. (4) Draw the other Z twill lines in same length in the left. (5) In the same way, draw the other S twill lines in the right.

3. Applications Entwined twills are used for apparels and sheets

Example: Base twill 2/2 ↗, new repeat 8, draw the Entwined Twill A: 8÷4=2;two twill lines in one repeat B: 8÷2=4;four ends in one line. C: draw the first Z twist in the first part according to 2/2 ↗ marked as “ ● ” D: draw the first S twist line stepping up the base weave float marked as “ ● ” E: draw the other Z and S twists in the same length at the first and second part marked as “ ● and ● ” respectively

Home works: 1) Drawing the zigzag weave. Base weave ↗ K 0 =8, m=4. 2) Drawing the following entwined weaves. ① Base twill 2/2 ↗, new repeat 16. ② Base twill 3/3 ↗, twill lines 3. ③ Base twill 4/4 ↗, twill lines 2.