GLOBAL APPAREL/CLOTHING EUROPE: COMPARATIVE PERSPECTIVES ON TRADE LIBERALIZATION AND PRODUCTION NETWORKS IN THE NEW EUROPEAN CLOTHING INDUSTRY

Convenors John Pickles (UNC) John Pickles (UNC) Gary Gereffi (Duke University) Gary Gereffi (Duke University) Meenu Tewari (UNC) Meenu Tewari (UNC) Adrian Smith (Queen Mary College, University of London) Adrian Smith (Queen Mary College, University of London)

Sponsors –Center for Slavic, East European, and Eurasian Studies –Center for European Studies –EU Center –University Center for International Studies –Carolina Asia Center –National Science Foundation

Special thanks to… Robert Jenkins (CSEEES) Robert Jenkins (CSEEES) Jeremy Pinkham (CSEEES) Jeremy Pinkham (CSEEES) Ruth Mitchell-Pitts (CES) Ruth Mitchell-Pitts (CES) Gali Beeri (CES) Gali Beeri (CES) Meredith Clason (CSEEES) Meredith Clason (CSEEES) Niklaus Steiner (UCIS) Niklaus Steiner (UCIS)

How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment? The Role of the European Union The Role of the European Union –Euro-Mediterranean Economic Zone

How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment? The Role of the European Union The Role of the European Union –Euro-Mediterranean Economic Zone –Western European production systems

How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment? The Role of the European Union The Role of the European Union –Euro-Mediterranean Economic Zone –Western European production systems –Central Europe

How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment? The Role of the European Union The Role of the European Union –Euro-Mediterranean Economic Zone –Western European production systems –Central Europe –East and Southeast Europe

How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment? The Role of the European Union The Role of the European Union –Euro-Mediterranean Economic Zone –Western European production systems –Central Europe –East and Southeast Europe –CIS

Central and East European Apparel

Coordinating the ‘industrial transition’ and competition policy Western Europe Western Europe –Old industries  ‘new economy’ –Low value added  higher value added Central and Eastern Europe Central and Eastern Europe –High quality fabrics -  low-cost assembly –Regional upgrading (CM  CMT  OBM, logistics) –New lower cost assembly regions CEE  SEE  Ukraine, Belarus  ??? CEE  SEE  Ukraine, Belarus  ??? –Geographically extended value chains –Regionally integrated production

The coordinating role of the ‘EU’? –DGTrade, DGEnlargement,… –Customs agreements – outward processing –Quota removal and tariff reduction –Institutional reform: alignment, contract law, –Infrastructural development: roads –Competition policy –Research and development –Coordination mechanisms

The coordinating role of the ‘EU’? –DGTrade, DGEnlargement,… –Customs agreements – outward processing –Quota removal and tariff reduction –Institutional reform: alignment, contract law, –Infrastructural development: roads –Competition policy –Research and development –Coordination mechanisms

The Role of Outward Processing Trade (All Apparel)

Globalization, Delocalization, and Regionalization –Delocalization –Extended production networks –East European economic integration –Inter-regional shifts

Globalization, Delocalization, and Regionalization –Delocalization –Extended production networks –East European economic integration –Inter-regional shifts Western Europe  Central Europe Western Europe  Central Europe  Southeastern Europe  Southeastern Europe

Globalization, Delocalization, and Regionalization –Delocalization –Extended production networks –East European economic integration –Inter-regional shifts Western Europe  Central Europe Western Europe  Central Europe  Southeastern Europe  Southeastern Europe Upgrading, FDI, and new capacities Upgrading, FDI, and new capacities

Globalization, Delocalization, and Regionalization –Delocalization –Extended production networks –East European economic integration –Inter-regional shifts Western Europe  Central Europe Western Europe  Central Europe  Southeastern Europe  Southeastern Europe Upgrading, FDI, and new capacities Upgrading, FDI, and new capacities Trans-border triangular trade Trans-border triangular trade