RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach.

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Presentation transcript:

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Islands Shelf Surf Beach

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Islands Shelf Surf Beach IOOS – National Waves Plan

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf Julie: LA/LB Harbor Website

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf Dr. “Where the Sewer Meets the Surf” Guza : Alongshore Currents

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

Alongcoast Model Prediction “MOP” Sites - 10m water depth m alongshore spacing.

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model” Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

Huntington Beach Wave Buoy Huntington Beach Case Study Buoy Network Model Validation

Offshore Wave Buoys Measure Arriving Swell from the Open Ocean Model Validation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model

Huntington Beach Wave Buoy South swell North swell Huntington Beach Case Study: Swell Transformation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model

Local Wave Buoys Measure Locally Generated Seas 3. Model Validation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model

Huntington Beach Wave Buoy Local Seas Huntington Beach Case Study : Sea Transformation 3. Model Validation

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model” Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Towards RSM Tools Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

Why Does San Diego’s North County Have So Much Trouble Retaining Sandy Beaches? Example Application :

Oceanside Littoral Cell: The “River of Sand” Wave-Driven Net Southward Sand Transport Sand Leaves Cell at Scripps Submarine Canyon

CDIP Buoys Wave Climate : Oceanside Littoral Cell Alongshore Wave Climate Reconstruction 1 Year: 4/1/02 - 3/31/03 Incident waves Cross-shore Component Alongshore Component

Duration of Large (Erosional) Wave Conditions

DowncoastUpcoast Net Annual Alongshore Sand Transport

Wave-driven Lagoon Sub-Cells Batiquitos Sub-Cell Moonlight Sub-Cell San Elijo Sub-Cell Fletcher Sub-Cell San Diegito Sub-Cell Penesquitos Sub-Cell Torrey Pines Sub-Cell

Predicted Max Potential Beach Width Erosion WINTER Max Potential Beach Width Erosion (m)

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : The Observation Challenge Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach