Organic and Fair Trade Cotton in Africa by Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.)

2 Introduction Initiative of private companies: ORGANIC EXCHANGE Initiative of NGOs: EU – Programme: “Fair dialogue- mutual benefit: responsible cotton stewardship”

3 Organic Cotton Conference February 2004 in Hamburg, Germany EU-Organic Cotton Working Group met in June nd Organic Cotton Conference in Cotonou, Bénin in October 2004 The Conference Declaration and further information can be found at:

4 Factors for improvement Good extension service Better basic agricultural know-how Better know-how about low risk and sustainable production systems Reduced dependency of income on only one cash crop Food security (in quality and quantity) Reliable input supply Good infrastructure for the marketing of agricultural products Reliable and fair market partners

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 5 bioRe - Training Centre

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 6 bioRe - Training Centre FFS – Training on use of ox-weeder

7 Integration of trap crops Sunflower + Pigeon peas Chemical free production does not mean organic. The soil fertility must be improved or at least maintained in an organic production system. This is the main principle laid down in the IFOAM and EU - Regulations for Organic Agriculture.

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 8 American Bollworm

9 Benefits of Organic Agriculture Benefits for the farmers Increased productivity compared to traditional farming. Higher profits for the farmers. Diversification of the agricultural production Additional income by marketing of other crops Less health risks for the farmers by not using chemical insecticides. No risk of working days lost as no health hazards with botanical insecticides

10 Benefits for the village community Creation of new employment in the village. Additional income for the village. Less environmental pollution of soil and water by not using chemical insecticides.

11 Benefits for the country Higher foreign currency earnings for the country because of the higher value of the exported certified organic cotton. Less foreign currency spent on imported agricultural inputs like chemical insecticides. Better reputation for the country which can be useful for the tourism industry.

12 FFS - Farmers Field School Planting Moringa trees

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 13 Sowing in rows

14 Soil erosion Control measures

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 15 Compost making

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 16 Cotton + Sunflower

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 17 Harrowing with ox-weeder

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 18 bioRe bioRe Farmers with their groundnuts

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 19 bioRe farmers with Pigeon peas + Sesame

The UK market Towards 10% organic by 2010 € 36 million – 0.2% of cotton textiles sales in 2002 But sales increasing at 38% per year (2003) and accelerating The sector grew 60% in 2003 Organic cotton use has more than doubled between 2001 and 2003 However, at this growth rate 10% will only be achieved in 2015, unless…

At least one major retailer starts an organic cotton programme each year. And new organic production begins requiring over time some 25-50,000 small farmers. Source: Simon Ferrigno, PAN-UK The UK market Towards 10% organic by 2010

22 Steps to develop organic cotton -1 Accept that organic cotton production is possible Accept that organic cotton production can be a profitable option for many African farmers Abolish regulations that hinder organic agriculture (e.g. mandatory use of chemicals)

23 Steps to develop organic cotton -2 Allow botanicals for pest control Protect the organic producers against GM varieties Research in organic farming practices Provide a qualified and efficient extension service and training for the farmers

24 Support to organic cotton -1 Financing of research and training (at least 5-10% of the research funds) A strong participation of the farmers to determine the priorities of research Assistance in set-up of Internal Control Systems Extensionists measuring a plot

25 Support to organic cotton -2 Financing certification Partnership with textile companies Contract production Preferential and tariff free access for sustainable textiles in the EU Setting targets like 10% OC by 2010 No subsidies for chemicals

Saro G. Ratter (Dipl.Ing.agr.) 26 More Information about International Environmental Award for Sustainable Development Partnerships from ICC and UNEP in the context of the World Summit on Sustainable Development in Johannesburg in the year 2002.

27 Summary: A holistic approach is required to improve the ecological and economic conditions of cotton production. Organic cotton is an option for many farmers. Organic cotton production works in diversified production systems. Know-how about organic farming methods can replace chemical inputs. Partnership with fair and reliable business partners is important.