GLOBAL APPAREL/CLOTHING EUROPE: COMPARATIVE PERSPECTIVES ON TRADE LIBERALIZATION AND PRODUCTION NETWORKS IN THE NEW EUROPEAN CLOTHING INDUSTRY

Convenors John Pickles (UNC) John Pickles (UNC) Gary Gereffi (Duke University) Gary Gereffi (Duke University) Meenu Tewari (UNC) Meenu Tewari (UNC) Adrian Smith (Queen Mary College, University of London) Adrian Smith (Queen Mary College, University of London)

Sponsors –Center for Slavic, East European, and Eurasian Studies –Center for European Studies –EU Center –University Center for International Studies –Carolina Asia Center –National Science Foundation

Special thanks to… Robert Jenkins (CSEEES) Robert Jenkins (CSEEES) Jeremy Pinkham (CSEEES) Jeremy Pinkham (CSEEES) Ruth Mitchell-Pitts (CES) Ruth Mitchell-Pitts (CES) Gali Beeri (CES) Gali Beeri (CES) Meredith Clason (CSEEES) Meredith Clason (CSEEES) Niklaus Steiner (UCIS) Niklaus Steiner (UCIS)

Global Apparel/Clothing Europe Global Apparel/Clothing Europe The Challenge of Outsourcing: How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment The Challenge of Outsourcing: How Are We To Think About Industrial and Community Adjustment –I. North Carolina –II. The Role of the European Union Post-quota/ Post-January Challenges Post-quota/ Post-January Challenges International Standards, Company Codes, and Fair Trading Initiatives International Standards, Company Codes, and Fair Trading Initiatives Competitive Pressure, Upgrading, and Regional Production Systems Competitive Pressure, Upgrading, and Regional Production Systems Global Apparel/Clothing Europe – Lessons Global Apparel/Clothing Europe – Lessons

Central and East European Integration into GCCs 1980s  Outsourcing to Central/Eastern Europe 1980s  Outsourcing to Central/Eastern Europe 1990s  End of MFA and January ? 1990s  End of MFA and January ? –Globalization or/and regionalization? The role of the EU and ‘state’ regulation? The role of the EU and ‘state’ regulation? Industrial and institutional legacies? Industrial and institutional legacies? Labor markets Labor markets Trade unions and labor codes Trade unions and labor codes Managerial skills, contacts, and know-how Managerial skills, contacts, and know-how Laws/regulations/institutions Laws/regulations/institutions

Does place matter? “We will pay particular attention to the ways in which locally and regionally specific institutions, legacies, and norms make a difference in how the post-socialist European clothing industry is being inserted into pan-European and global production networks.” “We will pay particular attention to the ways in which locally and regionally specific institutions, legacies, and norms make a difference in how the post-socialist European clothing industry is being inserted into pan-European and global production networks.”

Central and East European Apparel

Global Apparel? “China will dominate the world” IMF Survey “China will dominate the world” IMF Survey “U.S. textile companies have had 10 years to prepare for quota abolition. If they haven’t done so, they can’t come crawling to us for help.” “U.S. textile companies have had 10 years to prepare for quota abolition. If they haven’t done so, they can’t come crawling to us for help.” –US official quoted in Financial Times July 2004 [just-style.com 23 August 2004]

Ending of MFA… January WTO Report The Global Textile and Clothing Industry post the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing August 2004 “China and India will gain market share in EU, US, and Canada” “Proximity to major markets will be of increasing significance” “Other developing countries are catching up with China in terms of unit labor costs” That is: –2005-> is about China and India –2005-> is about complex inter-regional shifts in production networks and trade patterns

Globalization, Delocalization, and Regionalization –Delocalization –Extended production networks –East European economic integration –Inter-regional shifts Western Europe  Central Europe Western Europe  Central Europe  Southeastern Europe  Southeastern Europe Upgrading, FDI, and new capacities Upgrading, FDI, and new capacities Trans-border triangular trade Trans-border triangular trade

Some conceptual challenges… competition competition upgrading upgrading regional production/trade regimes regional production/trade regimes domestic markets domestic markets diverse economies diverse economies governance lag governance lag labor movements labor movements