Waves. Wave Terminology H = Height A = Amplitude = 1/2H L = λ = Wave Length ( distance 2 consecutive crests) T = Wave Period (Time between 2 consecutive.

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Presentation transcript:

Waves

Wave Terminology

H = Height A = Amplitude = 1/2H L = λ = Wave Length ( distance 2 consecutive crests) T = Wave Period (Time between 2 consecutive crests) f = Wave Frequency = 1/T (# waves/sec) C = Wave Speed or Celerity = L/T (m/s) H/L = Wave Steepnes –Waves Break = H/L = 1/7

Wave Motion & Energy

Wave Spectrum

Ocean surface waves

Wind Waves What influences wave size? –Wind Speed H, L, T –Duration of wind Maximum H –Fetch Maximum H –Wave Height (H) –Wave Interference

i.e. Effect of wind speed on H

Wave Interference

Wave Interference – Area of Fetch

Fetch Area

Wave formation in storms Fetch Area: Chaotic (Rogue Waves)

Wave Speed (Deep Water) C = L/T = 1.25 * √L L = 1.56 *T 2 Slow Wave Speed –long Period (T) –Short Length (L) Fast Wave Speed –Short Period (T) –Long Length (L)

Wave Dispersion Outside Fetch Area: L, T & C remain constant

Waves and Currents

Reduction speed = Increase steepness C=L/T Steepness = H/L

Figure 9.9

Orbital Motion

Shallow Water Waves Deep Water Waves (Depth > L/2) C = L/T = 1.25 * √L Intermediate Waves (L/2 > D > L/20) C ~ D, L Shallow Water Waves (d < L/20) C = 3.13 * √D

Shallow Water Waves

Shallow Water Waves (d < L/20) C = 3.13 * √D C = L / T –C (speed) diminishes in shallow water –T (period) remains constant –.. So L (Length) must also diminish –C & L depend on depth

Figure 9.12

Shallow Water Wave Height

Shallow Water Waves When D<L/20 Speed decreases ~ D Length decreases ~ D Height increases ~ D Wave steepness (H/L) –Increases very quickly H/L = 1/7 Waves break

Wave Difraction

MUNDAKA VIDEO

Teahupoo – Tahiti surging breaker long wavelengths steep slope

Teahupoo Tahiti

Pipeline - Oahu plunging breaker

Folly Beach - SC plunging breaker moderate slope, small wavelength

Rip Currents

Tsunami Waves Earthquakes L ~ 100 – 200 Km P ~ minutes Shallow Water Waves C over 4000m depth = 200 m/s = 720 km/h Refracted by topography Height at sea = 1-2 meters Dangerous in shallow water H~10’s m ; T~10-30 min.

Figure 9 p264 (figure 1)

Figure 9.24

Wave trains or ‘sets’ Train Speed = ½ wave speed = 1/C