The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity.

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The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity.

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Presentation transcript:

The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity

“Soul Food” Helen Anglin established the 1 st soul food restaurant “Soul Queen” in Chicago’s South side 50 years ago “Soul Food” did not exist until 1963

African American Culinary Tradition Centers on two characteristics: –Southerness –Commensality

Heritage of Slavery Food illustrates the struggle of African Americans –Cornmeal & cured pork were staples on plantations –Slaves also grew their own leafy vegetables Those that resembled African food (turnips, cabbage, eggplant, etc.) –Used animal parts discarded by whites (entrails/chitterlings, pig’s head, pig & chicken feet)

Combined African & American cuisines –Fried Chicken, barbequed pork, boiled greens, sweet potatoes, gumbo Slaves at large communal meals on Sundays It was important to pool foods into communal feasts

The Great Migration With emancipation, Southern blacks migrated north 1920 – 109,000 in Chicago End WWII – increased 8 times Northern Blacks viewed Southern migrants as backward Failed to conform to standards of respectability of urban Blacks

Chicago restaurants excluded them Chicago Defender: “Pig Ankle Joints”: Unsightly, unsanitary eating places and wagons Prejudice against Southern foods: »Laxative effect, little nutrient value, excessive carbohydrates, hot sauces, heavy meats were damaging to the liver & digestive system

Migration Strengthened Desire to Preserve Southern Traditions Southern migrants sought out food joints run by people from their hometowns –(lunch counters, chicken shacks) Outside of industry, food joints were the most popular occupation of migrants –They could be established with ease Used Southern Names –“Dixie Fish,” “Georgia Food & Fish Hut,” “Hanson’s Chitterling Shack”

African Americans fought the chain restaurants by being aware of customers’ preferences During the depression years, many failed, buth then increased in numbers By 1947 Southern Black businesses outnumbered native Chicagoans’ 13:1

Adoption of Migrant Foodways Into the Mainstream A change in integrationist sentiments eased tensions between Northern & Southern Blacks A sense of racial solidarity was built Southerners’ ethnic identity revolved around rural culture, Southerness, Commensality

“Soul Food” Soul Food was “discovered” Soul food restaurants became “funky” places for whites to go when they crossed to the other side of town to listen to music