CHEMICALS USED IN SKINCARE AND COSMETICS By: Mary Samimi and Cassie Foglia

History of Cosmetics Today we live in a society that puts a lot of value on how we look. Many people have been trying to find the fountain of youth for centuries but have not been able to fight the effects of aging. It is interesting to look back in time and see the evolution of cosmetic chemistry. Their have been a lot of accidental discoveries in science and we would be naive to think that cosmetics isn’t one of them.

The Ancient Egyptians were the earliest users of cosmetics for personal, religious, and burial uses. They would keep their skin lubricated by applying fragrant oils, lotions or ointments. The word ‘cosmetics’ comes from the greek word ‘kosmetikos’ which means skilled in decorating. Around 200A.D. Galen, a Greek physician, mixed rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together to create the first modern cosmetic compound: Cold Cream. History of Cosmetics

During the Elizabethan Era facial masks were all the rage and formulas for these lotions were made from ingredients such as powdered eggshell, alum, borax, ground almond, poppy seeds, milk, butter, wine, fruits, and vegetables. History of Cosmetics

Today the cosmetic industry has evolved and become much more complex with the use of chemicals as active ingredients. Now, cosmetics have to be tested before they can be consumed by the masses. It will be interesting to look into the future a century from now and see how much cosmetics have changed and evolved to meet the needs of 22 nd century consumer. History of Cosmetics

Roles of Ingredients in Cosmetics  There are several terms that are commonly used to describe the role of ingredients in cosmetics and skincare products:  Solvent  Large group of ingredients used to dissolve or break down other ingredients  Used to degrease skin and remove sebum  Emollient  Supple, wax like, lubricating, thickening agents  Prevent water loss  Has softening and soothing effect on the skin  Surfactant  Surface active agent  Degrease and emulsify oils and fat and suspends oil, allowing them to wash away  Used in most forms of cleaners  Many gentle and effective on skin, some can be sensitizing, drying, and irritating for skin if they are main ingredients in a cleanser

Roles of Ingredients in Cosmetics  Emulsifier  Ingredient that keeps unlike ingredients from separating (like oil and water)  Fragrance  Volatile and fragrant plant oils (some are synthetic oils) that add odor to products  Often skin irritants  Preservatives  Substance used to prevent bacterial and microbial contamination products  Provide risk of skin irritation, however using contaminated products can have much greater impact on the skin and eyes  Anti-inflammatory  Ingredients that reduce signs of inflammation, swelling, tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness

Arbonne vs. Clinique  For this presentation we will be comparing two cosmetics and skincare companies to see the difference in ingredients used  The companies are: Arbonne International, and Clinique  Business models and products will be examined

Arbonne  33 year-old cosmetics, skincare, and nutrition company  Botanically based products  Vegan certified  All products are made based on Swiss guidelines  Over 2500 chemicals used in American cosmetics are illegal in Switzerland  Products are paraben free  Parabens have been found in breast cancer tumors

Marketing and Distribution  Arbonne sells products through network marketing  Company employs independent consultants to inform customers and sell products  Products are manufactured and sent to customers through online orders  Advertising is done through catalogs, online webpage, and by providing incentives to consultants

Clinique  46 year old company  Company sells skincare and cosmetic products  Products are hypoallergenic, fragrance free, and created based on dermatology principles  Available in 83 countries and territories

Marketing and Distribution  Implementation of strong promotional effort  External, in-store, and website advertising is used  Promotions done through national ads, magazines, and in-store marketing strategies  Products are purchased through upscale department sores, specialty retailers, perfumeries and pharmacies  Lesser distribution done though freestanding company stores and spas

Products investigated

Arbonne Face Cleanser  extra-gentle, sulfate-free cleanser  Clinically tested for safety and gentleness  washes away makeup, excess oil and dirt without irritating or over-drying the skin  Safe for daily use

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap  Soft, non-drying lather cleans gently, rinses easily Protects skin's natural moisture balance so there's no taut or dry feeling.

Ingredients Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Chloride Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Lauramidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA) Aloe Barbadensis PEG120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate Sucrose Sodium m Hyaluronate Cetyl Triethylmonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate Tocopheryl Ethyl Succinate Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Butylene Glycol Chamomilla Recutita Hexylene Glycol Polyquaternium-7 Laureth-2 Caprylyl Glycol Sodium Sulfate EDTA Disodium EDTA Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol

Comparisons  Clinique contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate  This is a chemical used in cleaning products and cosmetics to cause foaming (used in shampoos)  Depending on manufacturing process it can be contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4- dioxane which are human carcinogens  Sodium Laureth Sulfate is also an eye and respiratory tract irritant

Mascara  creates the appearance of longer-looking lashes

Clinique High Impact Mascara  Adds volume and length

Ingredients

Comparisons  Some overlap between ingredients  Two ingredients that are found in Clinique products that are particularly harmful are butylated hydroxytoluene (BTH) and benzyl alcohol  BHT is found to be toxic in high doses and a tumor promoter (it can mimic estrogen in the body)  Benzyl alcohol is an eye and skin irritant. It’s presence in mascara can cause redness to the eyes BTH Benzyl alcohol

Cover-up  multitasking10-in-1 Complexion Control  botanicals soothe and hydrate to protect skin’s moisture barrier4  lightweight coverage builds to conceal blemishes and dark spots, and minimizes the appearance of pores

Clinique Moisture Surge CC Cream  Lightweight formula instantly colour corrects a range of complexion concerns (redness, dullness, sallowness)  Leaves a healthy- looking glow  Oil-free and contains sunscreen

Active Ingredients  Octinoxate  Octisalate  Titanium Dioxide  Zinc Oxide  Octyldodecyl neopentanoate

Comparisons  Both companies contain skin conditioning agents.  Arbonne: Octyldodecyl myristate  Clinique: Octyldodecyl neopentanoate  Both chemicals are used as a sunscreen and have no harmful effects on humans.

Overall Comparisons  Both Clinique and Arbonne produce high quality cosmetics and skincare producs  Prices of products are quite similar  Marketing and product distribution is very different for these two companies, although both companies seem to be benefiting from their respective systems and both have been around for decades  Arbonne has very accessible ingredient lists, making it more consumer friendly. Clinique’s lists were much harder to find  Although Clinique is hypoallergenic and fragrance free it still does contain ingredients that can be harmful and cause irritation

References Definitions: ingredient-dictionary/definition/anti-inflammatoryhttp:// ingredient-dictionary/definition/anti-inflammatory Arbonne:  Arbonne ingredient policy:  over_arbonne.asp# over_arbonne.asp#  Ingredients:    

Clinique: o Marketing Plan: micozzi/documenti/Clinique_Marketing_Pl an.pdf micozzi/documenti/Clinique_Marketing_Pl an.pdf o Ingredients: o html html o html html o html html