AUSTRIAN — ITALIAN JOURNEY By Wen-Chung Chiang

Siena San Gimignano Lucca

Vienna (Wien, 維也納 ) I have been in Wien several times. To me, its prestige has always been due above all to the musical tradition preserved by the Opera and its famous orchestras. Unfortunately in the past times when I was Wien, most musical activities were also closed for summer vacations. This year was the first time I attended a Wiener Philharmoniker concert in the acoustically perfect Großer Musikvereinssaal, and a production of Richard Strauss’ “Der Rosenkavalier” in the Wiener Staatoper. Both performances were extraordinary and they marked the highlights of our brief two-day stay in the city.

Two lovely ladies posing in the Graben area of Wien. The end of the road stands the Dome of Michaelertor, the entrance to the Hofburg.

The magnificent carved stone Virgin Mary (above) and pulpit (right) of Stephansdom, Wien

Program of the Wiener Philharmoniker concert on January 12, 2004

Program of the Wiener Staatoper performance on January 13, 2004

Venice (Venezia, 威尼斯 ) The scenic sights along the railroad crossing the Alps from Wien, Austria to Venezia, Italy were well worth the duration of almost eight hours sitting in the train. The journey began at 9 AM in the morning in Wien, and when we arrived in Venezia, the sun already set. We had explored Venezia extensively last year, so we spent only one night and one half day in the city this time. A casual walk in Venezia, browsing in little specialty shops, sipping a cup of Cappuccino and tasting various kinds of Panini, was nothing short of delights.

One never gets tired of such kind of view typical in Venezia — old buildings, bridges and reflected images in the canal. In fact, Venezia kept surprising me no matter how many times I had visited it.

Ca’ d’Oro (Golden House), Venezia. Although it has lost the gilded decoration which gave it its name, the mansion retains an elegant façade in the ornate Gothic style.

Milan (Milano, 米蘭 ) Set in the heart of northern Italy at the foot of the Alps, Milano is the second largest city of the country, and the capital of Italian fashion. We had planned a short stay in Milano for the purpose of seeing an opera in Teatro alla Scala, the most famous opera in the world. Unfortunately the theater was in the process of a major renovation, therefore all performances were moved to another venue quite off the city center. Well, that gave us a strong excuse to come back again.

Duomo, Milano. The Cathedral marks the climax of architecture of the Gothic period. Magnificent !

Castello Sforzesco, Milano. This huge brick quadrilateral building now houses several museums.

Museo degli strumenti musicali, Castello Sforzesco, Milano — An extensive collection of musical instruments. Above: Glass Harmonica.

Museo degli strumenti musicali, Castello Sforzesco, Milano. Above: Clavicembalo. Right: An ancient organ.

Santa Maria delle Grazie, Milano. In the former refectory of this Renaissance church is the famous painting “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci.

One week in Tuscany (Toscana) Toscana is not just a frozen Renaissance portrait but a living procession of daily lives with artistic setting, gourmet food and more. The recent movie “Under the Tuscan Sun” casted by Dianne Lane might give you some taste of how lives are on this marvelous land. We’re very pleased that we had a week in Toscana. We accommodated ourselves in a nice hotel in Firenze (Florence) and commuted between Firenze and nearby towns such as Siena, Pisa, San Gimignano, and Lucca. Of course Firenze was full of fun by itself alone…

Santa Groce & Dante Statue, Firenze. The church and the cloisters of Santa Groce give onto one of the town’s oldest squares, dated back in Florence (Firenze, 翡冷翠 ) Florence (Firenze, 翡冷翠 )

The tomb of Michelangelo (d 1564), Santa Groce The 18C monument of Marchiavelli (d 1527), S. Groce

The tomb of Galileo (d 1642), Santa Groce The tomb of Rossini (d 1868), Santa Groce

Above: San Miniato al Monte, one of the oldest churches in Firenze dominating a hilltop. Right: Firenze, viewed from Piazzale Michelangelo

The splendid golden mosaics on the dome of Battistero, S. Maria del Fiore, Firenze

Siena ( 席恩那 ) Siena ( 席恩那 ) In July 1944 American and French troops surrounded Siena and forced the city to surrender. General Monsambert ordered troops not to “let any shells fall on Siena, otherwise you’ll be shot”. It’s a good story telling the historic and artistic treasures of Siena. Right: Piazza del Campo. All roads in Siena lead to this shell-like piazza.

Above: Piazza del Campo; Right: Palazzo Pubblico & Torre on Piazza del Campo, Siena.

Duomo, Siena. German composer Richard Wagner was so affected that he burst into tears at the sight of this cathedral.

Battistero, Piazza dei Miracoli Pisa ( 比薩 ) Pisa ( 比薩 )

Battistero, Duomo, & Torre Pendente (Leaning Tower) on Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa

Duomo, Pisa

Camposanto & one of its wall frescoes, Pisa. This burial ground of Pisa was begun in 1277 by Giovanni di Simone, one of the architects of the leaning tower. Its galleries were paved with about 600 tombstones.

San Gimignano San Gimignano San Gimignano stands on a hilltop in the Tuscan countryside where vineyards flourish. The town looks very impressive when you approach it from below. The numerous Medieval towers have earned it the nickname “San Gimignano dalle belle torri (of the Fine Towers)”. Right: Piazza della Cisterna, San Gimignano

San Gimignano wears a “crown of towers”

Lucca ( 盧卡 ) Lucca ( 盧卡 ) Lucca has a rich heritage of churches, palaces, squares and streets which gives the town a charming air, unscathed by contemporary developments. Right: Duomo, Lucca. The cathedral, dedicated to St. Martin, was rebuilt in the 11C.

Lucca, viewed from Torre Guinigi, the highest point in town.

The Pisan Romanesque façade of San Michele, Lucca

The visit of Lucca was not complete without a touch of Puccini. Giacomo Puccini was born in 1858 in the house behind the statue, under reconstruction at the time when we were there.

Roma was our last stop before heading for home. Since we had been in Roma for an entire week last year, the pictures shown here do not necessarily represent the most popular attractions of the eternal city. Right: The beautiful statue posts of Palazzo Barberini ROME (ROMA, 羅馬 ) ROME (ROMA, 羅馬 )

Basilica di San Pietro, Vaticano. Viewed from the top of Castel Sant’Angelo, Roma

An interesting garden decoration/ statue shop in Roma

Fontana dei Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), Piazza Navona, Roma. The four river statues – Danube, Ganges, Rio de la Plata and Nile, created by Baroque master Bernini, all turn their backs against Sant’Agnese in Agone (under reconstruction in the pictures), designed by Bernini’s opponent Borromini.

References  The Green Guide - Italy, Michelin Travel Publications, UK, 2001  Inside Guides: Tuscany, Discovery Channel, APA Publications GmbH & Co., 1998; Updated 2002  知性之旅 - 羅馬, Discovery Channel, APA Publications GmbH & Co., 1999