Hairstyling Chapter 15

Hairstyling The art of hairstyling or dressing the hair has always had a direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the times A person’s hairstyle often reflects the period in which they live Historical and technical knowledge of hairstyling will prepare you for the constant cyclical changes of fashion By learning basic styling techniques, you will be able and ready to create endless styles to keep clients happy

Wet Hairstyling Tools: Combs – Brushes Rollers Clips – duckbill, sectioning, double prong Pins – bobby or hair Clamps – butterfly clips

Finger waving Is the process of shaping and directing hair into an “S” pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion Was the rage in the 1920’s

Waving lotion Is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger waving process Traditionally made from karaya gum an ingredient found in trees in India and Africa A good waving lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake when dry If you use too much the hair will be too wet and dripping

Finding the natural part Comb wet hair straight back from the hairline Push the hair gently forward with the palm of the hand Use your comb and other hand to separate the hair where it parts

Horizontal finger waving Part hair Apply waving lotion Shape the hair into a S or C shaping Place index finger of your left hand directly above the position for the first ridge, with the teeth of the comb pointing slightly upward insert the comb directly under the index finger, draw the comb forward about 1 inch Flatten the comb against the head to hold ridge in place Remove your left hand and place your middle finger above the ridge with your index finger on the teeth of the comb Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and applying pressure – do not push or over direct Turn the teeth downward and comb the hair in a semicircular direction opposite the slide Continue this procedure until all sections are complete

Pin Curls Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, line waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles Can be used on all types of hair Work best when the hair is layered and smoothly wound Have three basic parts: base, stem, and circle

3 Basic Parts of a Pin Curl

Base stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl which is the area closest to the scalp 10

Stem section of the curl between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle that gives the curl its direction and movement 11

Circle part of the curl that forms a complete circle, size of circle determines the width of the wave and its strength 12

Mobility of a curl The stem is what determines the mobility or movement of the curl There are 3 classifications of curl mobility: no-stem curl half-stem curl full-stem curl

placed directly on the base of the curl No Stem placed directly on the base of the curl produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl allows minimum mobility

circle is placed half off the base gives good control to the hair Half Stem medium movement circle is placed half off the base gives good control to the hair 15

Full Stem greatest mobility curl is placed completely off the base base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or rectangular Gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit, if it is exaggerated the hair near the scalp will be flat this curl is used to give hair a strong definite direction

Shaping A section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls Are either open ended or closed ended Always begin a pin curl at the open end or convex side of a shaping

Open / Closed Center Curls Open center curls produce even smooth waves and uniform curls Closed center curls produce waves that get smaller in size toward the end. They are good for fine hair, if a fluffy curl is desired

Open Center / Closed Center

Stem and Direction Curls may be turned toward the face, away from the face, upward, downward, or diagonally Terms clockwise and counterclockwise are used to describe the direction of a pin curl

Bases / Foundations Most common is half-moon or C shaping To avoid splits in the finished hairstyle you must use care when selecting and forming the curl base Each curl must lie flat and smooth on its base The shape of the base does not affect the finished curl

Rectangular Base usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth effect and to avoid splits in the comb-out the pin curls must overlap

Triangular Base recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits 23

Arc Base / C shape / Half Moon are carved out of a shaping give good direction and may be used at the hairline or in the nape 24

Square Bases suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift can be used on any part of the head to avoid splits stagger the sections 25

Pin curl techniques Ribboning: involves forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension

Carved Curls those curls that are sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head 27

Wave To create a wave effect use two rows of pin curls set one row clockwise and one counter clockwise

Ridge Curls Are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a finger wave 29

Skip Waves Are two rows of ridge curls usually on the side of the head 30

Pin curl procedure Form C shaping Slice a strand to create the first curl Point your left index finger down and hold the strand in place Ribbon the strand Wind the curl forward keeping the ends inside the center of the curl Hold the curl in the shaping and anchor it with a clip

Pin Curl Procedure

Anchoring pins To anchor pin curls start at the open end of the curl – this is the side opposite the stem The clip should enter the circle parallel to the stem To avoid a dent in the curl avoid pinning across the circle If clips touch the skin place cotton under them before placing client under the dryer

Stand up Curls used to create height they are fastened to the head in a standing position to allow hair to flow upward and then downward size of the curl determines the amount of height in the comb-out

Barrel Curls have a large center opening and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base is similar to a roller but does not have the same tension as a roller when it is set 35

Roller Curls Advantages Use to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls Roller holds the equivalent of two to four stand-up curls Faster way to set hair Hair is wrapped around the roller with tension which gives a longer-lasting effect Come in variety of shapes and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for styles

ROLLERS

Parts of a Roller Curl Base: panel of hair on which the roller is placed. Base should be same length and width as the roller. The type of base does effect the volume Stem: hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller, stem gives hair direction and mobility Curl: or circle, the hair that is wrapped around the roller, determines the size of the wave or curl

3 Parts of a roller curl

Choosing your roller size Relationship between the length of the hair and the size of the roller will determine the results C shape, Wave, or Curl

C Shape One complete turn around the roller 41

Wave One and a half turns 42

Curl Two and a half turns 43

Roller Placement The size of the roller and how it sits on its base will determine the volume achieved General rule – larger the roller the greater the volume There are three basic roller placements or bases: On Base, Half Base, Off Base Special roller placement is indentation

On Base For full volume the roller is placed directly on its base Over direct (higher than 90 degrees) the strand slightly in front of the base and then roll the hair down to the base

Half Base For medium volume The roller sits halfway on its base, and halfway behind its base. Hold the strand straight up from the head (90 degrees) and roll the hair down 46

OFF BASE Least volume The roller sits completely off the base Hold the strand 45% down from the base and roll the hair down 47

Indentation Placement of rollers on the head usually follows the movement of the finished style is the point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area, this is often found in a flip style

Hot Rollers To be used only on dry hair They are heated either electrically or by steam Allow the rollers to set in the hair for approximately 10 minutes A thermal protector should be sprayed on the hair prior to setting The result curl is less strong than a wet set curl but longer lasting than a curling iron curl

Velcro Rollers Are not allowed by some state boards because of the difficulty of sanitizing them properly Used only on dry hair, using them on wet hair will snag and tear the hair Often used after a blow-out to reinforce a curl of wave No clipping is necessary the Velcro fabric grips the hair and holds itself in place Mist entire head with hairspray, dry under a hood dryer for 5 – 10 minutes

Comb-Out Techniques Back combing – also called back brushing, teasing, ratting, matting,ruffing or french lacing Best way to increase volume and remove indentations caused by roller setting Involves combing small sections of hair from the ends towards the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base During the 1950’s and 60’s back brushing would allow a client to wear their hair in their style for an entire week Teasing hair is a necessity for a good updo

Back combing procedure Section hair, pick up a section no more than 1 inch thick and 2 to 3 inches wide Insert comb using fine teeth at a depth of about 1 ½ inches from the scalp Press the comb down gently to the scalp repeat this process until desired volume is achieved Create a cushion by firmly pushing the hair down to the scalp Smooth the hair so as not to see the packing or cushioning at the scalp

Backcombing

Hair Wrapping Useful to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape Wrap hair around the head using the head to contour the hair Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair On overly curly hair press it first and then do a dry hair wrapping Apply a silicone shine product before wrapping for a glossy comb out For extra protection stretch a neck strip around the head so that it overlaps at the ends The longer the hair is wrapped the smoother it will be

Hair Wrapping

Blow-dry styling Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation The impression of the client’s haircut will be determined by the quality of the blow-dry

Tools for blow-dry styling Blow-dryer – and electrical appliance designed for drying and styling hair Its main parts are handle, slotted nozzle, small fan, heating element, speed and heat controls, and cool shot button Temperature control switch helps to produce a steady stream of air at the desired temperature Concentrator is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of air Diffuser is an attachment that causes the air to flow more softly and help to accentuate or keep textural (curl) definition

Blow-dryer tips To keep blow-dryer safe and effective keep it clean and free of dirt, oil, and hair The air intake at the back of the dryer must also be kept clear at all times Dropping a blow-dryer can damage the fan or heating element Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one place, keep it in motion at all times Always direct the hot air away from the client’s scalp to avoid burns Direct it from the scalp towards the ends to seal the cuticle so the hair is smooth and shiny

Tools for styling hair Picks and combs: designed to distribute and part the hair, they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, hard rubber combs should always be used with thermal tools Brushes: choose one based on the length, texture, and styling needs of the hair that you are working with

Brushes

Combs

Classic Styling Brush half round rubber based typically have with seven or nine rows of round tipped nylon bristles heat resistant and antistatic used where little volume is desired 62

Paddle Brush large, flat base are well suited for mid to longer length hair usually with ball tipped nylon pins 63

Grooming Brush usually oval with a mixture of boar and nylon bristles boar helps to distribute scalp oils throughout hair shaft 64

Vent Brush ventilated design, used to speed up the blow drying process great for adding volume and lift at the scalp 65

Round Brush Come in various diameters usually natural bristles, smaller brush gives more curl used to lift hair at scalp and add volume metal cylinders bases act as electric roller use the cool shot button to “set” the shape

Teasing Brush thin nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning along with a narrow row of bristles 67

Tools for styling continued… Styling product: are thought of a “liquid tools” with so many products on the market a stylist needs to consider the following: 1.How long does the style need to hold? 2.What are the environmental conditions, humidity, wind, sun? 3.Type of hair, straight, curly? 4.Amount of support desired, using it on fine or coarse hair?

Mousse light airy whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam It builds moderate body and volume into the hair good for fine hair will not weigh it down great for blowouts needing volume & roller sets

Gel thickened styling preparation that comes in a tube or bottle create the strongest control for slicked or molded styles firm hold may overwhelm fine hair

Liquid Gel / Texturizer lighter and usually a more liquid in form, add volume and body to the hair 71

Straightening Gel / Serum is applied to hair ranging from wavy to extremely curly and creates a smooth straight look that will hold in a variety of weather conditions, this is temporary and will only last from shampoo to shampoo

Volumizers add volume to the hair, usually have a drying effect on the hair and should only be sprayed on close to the roots 73

Pomade / Wax add considerable weight to the hair by causing the strands to join together showing separation in the hair, makes dry hair easy to mold should be used sparingly on fine hair excellent on short hair check ingredients and avoid all products with petroleum and mineral oil 74

Silicone adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural definition nonoily silicones are best to add at the end for extra shine spray formulas are useful for fine hair so they do not add weight 75

Hairspray / Finishing Mist mist or aerosol formula used to hold hair in place available in a variety of holding strengths 76

Thermal Hairstyling aka Marcel waving / thermal curling Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hair Electrical or stove heated Made of quality steel to provide even heat controlled by the stylist Stove irons are capable of higher heat settings preferred w/extremely curly hair

Thermal Iron 4 basic parts Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod (cylinder) Shell

Flat Iron Have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ inch to 3 inches across Straight edges used to create straight styles Beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or curl the ends best are made from full ceramic not coated plates titanium, tourmaline ceramic, nano

Testing Thermal Irons Test it on a piece of tissue paper or a damp towel Clamp the iron on the material and hold for 5 seconds If it scorches or turns brown the iron is too hot

Care of thermal irons To remove dirt, oils and product residue, dampen a towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia Do not immerse the barrel in the solutions Do not do this when your iron is on Do not do this when your iron is hot Premixed solutions

Manipulating thermal irons Grasp the iron in your right hand far enough away from the joint to avoid the heat Place your three middle fingers on the back of the lower handle, your little finder in front of the lower handle and your thumb in front of the upper handle Practice rolling a cold iron until you are comfortable

Manipulating thermal irons

Temperature There is no single correct temperature used for the iron Depends mainly on the texture of the hair Hair that has been lightened or tinted as well as white hair should be treated with gentle heat Coarse hair can withstand a greater temperature

Types of curls Barrel curl – good for short hair (can be volume based, full based, half based, or off base) Figure 6 curl – good for medium hair Figure 8 curl – good for long hair Spiral curl – curling hair by winding it around the rod, inserted at an angle End curls – finished appearance to hair ends, can be turned either under or over

End Curls

Barrel Curl

Figure 6 Curl

Figure 8 Curl

Curl Placement Volume Curl On Base Slightly Off Base Off Base

Safety for thermal irons Keep clean Do not overheat, this can cause the ability of the iron to hold heat uniformly Test temperature Handle thermal irons carefully Place hot irons in a safe place to cool When heating conventional irons do not place the handles too close to the stove Make sure that iron is properly balanced in the stove to avoid injury Use only hard rubber combs Do not use metal combs they can burn the scalp Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curling The client’s hair must be clean and dry to endure a good result Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this will cause fishhooks When ironing lightened, tinted or relaxed hair always use gentle heat

Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated comb Generally lasts from shampoo to shampoo A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural and lustrous condition, and is not harmful to the hair There are 3 basic types of pressing: soft, medium, and hard

Hair pressing Soft Press: removes about 50-60% of the curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hair Medium press: removes about 60 -75% of the curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hair but using more pressure Hard press: removes 100% of curl, apply thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair

Hair and Scalp Analysis Under no circumstances should hair pressing be given to a client who has a scalp abrasion or a contagious scalp condition, or chemically damaged hair Chemically relaxed hair should not be pressed If hair condition is not optimal suggest a series of reconditioning treatments prior to pressing A tight scalp can be made more flexible by scalp massage or brushing

Pressing Comb 2 basic types: regular and electric Constructed of good quality stainless steel or brass Handle is usually made of wood since wood does not readily absorb heat A comb with more space between the teeth produces a coarse or open looking press, while a comb with less space produces a smoother press

Tempering Allows the brass to hold heat evenly You must burn off any polish the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb, if the polish is not burned off the comb may stick to the hair causing scorching and breakage To temper a new comb – 1.heat until extremely hot 2.coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil 3.let it cool naturally 4.rinse w/ hot running water to remove oil 96

Cleaning Pressing Comb Will perform more efficiently if it is kept clean Remove the carbon by rubbing the outside surface and between the teeth with a fine steel wool pad or fine sandpaper Then place the metal portion of the comb in a hot baking soda solution for about 1 hour; rinse and dry

Pressing oil or cream Pressing oil or cream make the hair: softer prepare and condition the hair for pressing help prevent burning or scorching help prevent breakage add sheen to the hair help hair stay pressed longer

Pressing Hints Avoid excessive heat or pressure Avoid too much pressing oil – will smoke and causes hair to look greasy Avoid perfumed pressing oil near scalp to prevent allergies Avoid over frequent hair pressings Keep the comb clean at all times Test temperature on tissue paper Completely dry hair before pressing

Touch-ups Sometime necessary when the hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or humidity The process is the same however you omit the shampoo

Styling long hair Updo – is a hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders and secured with implements such as hairpins, bobbypins, and elastics Usually requested for special occasions such as weddings, proms, and evening events 3 basic updos: chignon, basic French twist, classic French twist Backcombing and backbrushing are a must for updo styling, often times hair is set in rollers first too Hair should be washed and dried the day before the updo because freshly washed hair can be slippery and difficult to work with

Basic French Twist

Classic French Twist/ Pleat

Chingnon/ Knot