OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care J&J – BSI SEMINAR 14th May 2012

A fruitfull collaboration On 10 specialty products; Radia 7750; Isoamy Laurate Radia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Radia 7758; Sorbitan Isostearate Radia 7447; PEG-8 Diisostearate Radia 7687; Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7373; Triisostearin Radia 7380; Trimethylol Propane Triisostearate Radia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Radia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

WHO is oleon?

Core business of Oleon Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural Oils. Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry. Biotechnologies Seeds Pesticides Other services for agriculture Growers Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds Crushing Oils Food Renewable energies Renewable chemicals Oil cake Animal health and breeding Animal nutrition Breeders Transformation and animal productions Growers and breeders Oilseeds division Food and animal sector division Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern

International character of Oleon Oleon Americas Oleon Sales Offices 6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang) Oleon HQ Oleon Northern Europe Oleon GmbH Oleon Southern Europe Oleon France Oleon UK Oleon Asia Pacific Oleon China

Environmental concern Innovation driven Values of Oleon Environmental concern RSPO member Iso14001 certification Innovation driven Investments in innovation centre Technical involvement Application research & Product improvement in R&D lab Quality focus COSMOS/Ecocert Kosher/Halal

Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria Oleon is an RSPO member RSPO Promoting the Growth And Use of Sustainable Palm Oil Oleon is member since 2007 Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria Among its principles …Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families. …No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations

Our Chemistry.

From nature to oleochemistry Containing Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…

From oleochemistry to consumer product Esterification Ester Fatty acid Alcohol building block Hydrolyses Glycerol Fatty acid

A glance into the Radia building blocks Fatty acid – function -COOH Alcohol-function - OH  + =  INCI Polyglycerol Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycol Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 60 Polysorbate 80 Sorbitan Sorbitan Laurate Fatty acid – function -COOH Sorbitan Oleate Sorbitan trioleate C8/C10 Lauric acid Myristic acid Palmitic acid Stearic acid Oleic acid Isostearic acid Sorbitan isostearate Isoamyl Isoamyl laurate Isopropyl Isopropyl myristate Isopropyl palmitate Isopropyl isostearate Pentaerythrityl Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracaprate Pentaerythrithyl stearate Pentaerythrithyl tetrastearate Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate Propylene glycol Propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate Propylene glycol stearate Glycerol caprylic/capric triglyceride Glyceryl laurate (90%) Glyceryl stearate Glyceryl oleate …

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin Stands for: Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance Established for: Non-ionic emulsifiers Formula: HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule] Purpose: Scale to performance of the emulsifier High HLB = hydophylic type Low HLB = lipophylic type FA function -OH function Hydrophylic part Lipophylic part High HLB FA function -OH function Hydrophylic part Lipophylic part Low HLB Low HLB Oil (Fat) soluble Water in oil emulsion High HLB Water soluble Oil in Water emulsion

Characteristics: HLB versus performance 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Characteristics O/W emulsifier Mixing unlike oils together   Making W/O emulsions Making self-emulsifying oils Wetting Powders Making O/W emulsions using surfactant blends Making detergent solutions (HLB 13-15) Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying) into water (10-18) Radia Radiasurf 7755 Radiamuls 2253 Radia 7887 Radiasurf 7758 Radiamuls 2155 Radiasurf 7145 Radiasurf 7141 Radiasurf 7443 Radiasurf 7402 Radiasurf 7125  Radiamuls 2248 Radiasurf 7447 Radiasurf 7444 Radiasurf 7454 Radiasurf 7473 Radiasurf 7403 Radiasurf 7423 Radiasurf 7404 Radiamuls 2157 Radiasurf 7147 Radiasurf 7137  

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect … softens and smoothes the skin … results in elastic and lubricated skin An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology: Spreading Absorption Greasiness Stickiness Softness Smoothness

Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry An emollient can be characterised by physico chemical terminology Low viscosity  Viscosity = light feel & good spread Branched structure  Liquid means easy to handle = Cold processing  Light feel Saturated structure  Chemical stability  No off odour, no off colour Low molecular weight  light & dry feel  quick absorption High polarity (Harkin)  Good spread Low contact angle  Wetting capacity

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

How commercial is a W/O-emulsion? Radia 7887: W/O emulsion How commercial is a W/O-emulsion? Applications: Sun Screen milks Skin protective baby creams Massage milks Lotions and creams For dry and sensitive skin Hand & feet care Night creams Properties: Skin protection Long lasting moisturization Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients Reduced preservative concentration

How do you benefit of a cold process method? Radia 7887: cold process How do you benefit of a cold process method? COLD PROCESSING equals cost reduction by means of …time No heating time No cooling time …energy No need for melting …amount No additional co-emulsifier Low concentration T (°C) +/- 80 20 1 2 3 Homogenize 4 5 Hot Process Time T (°C) Cold Process 1 2 3 5 4 20 Homogenize Time

Radia 7887: its building blocks Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE Glycerol Ricinoleate Sorbitol Isostearate Saponification of a vegetable oil Rapeseed oil Extraction & destillation Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) Hydrogenation & filtration Wheat/Maize Saponification, neutralization & destillation Rapeseed oil 21

The identity of Radia 7887 Radia 7887 INCI: POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE HLB: 4,2 Performance: Single emulsifier Liquid W/O emulsifier Sensorial: provides emulsions with a glossy appearance Speciality: EO free - Palm free - PEG free fit for high and low internal phase based on natural raw materials no need for co-emulsifier functions at low levels (<1%) COLD Process Radia 7887

Radia 7887: viscosity How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients? Increase of water phase % Using emollients with higher viscosity Homogenization (sharing force) Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream

Stability testing parameters? Radia 7887: stability Stability testing parameters? Test formulation W/O Oil phase Oil 10 %, 18% or 30% Emulsifier 1% or 4% Water phase Glycerol 4% MgSO4.7H2O 0,7% Preservative q.s. Water to 100% Low external phase = 10% High external phase = 30% Low surfactant = 1% High surfactant = 3.5% Evaluation methods 1) Centrifuge stability (3x15min @ 4000rpm) 2) Temperature stability 8 weeks @ 50°C 3 months@ 40°C >4 months@ RT Freeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT 3) Viscosity stability ( mPas) Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle After 1 day After 3 months 4) Appearance Visual aspect

Radia 7887: stability What about stability performance? A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with …MCT …paraffin oils up to 18% A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with …sunflower oil …paraffin oils A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation. R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!

Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2 Radia 7887: formulations Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2 Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Radia 7887 Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate 3.6 Radia 7373 Triisostearin 0.5 Radia 7363 Triolein (= Sunflower oil) 18 B Glycerin 4810 Glycerin 4 water Aqua To 100 Mg.SO4.7H2O 0.8 C preservative 0.7 ok Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.) Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3 Radia 7887: formulations W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3 Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Radia 7887 Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate 4 Radia 7208 Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2 Radia 7732 Isopropyl Palmitate 11 Sweet almond oil Avocado oil B Glycerin 4810 Glycerin 3 water Aqua To 100 Mg.SO4.7H2O 0.5 C preservative 0.7 Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.) Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1 Radia 7887: formulations Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1 Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Radia 7887 Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate 3,6 Olive Oil 15 Radia 7373 Triisostearin 0,5 Radia 7500 Cetyl Palmitate 2 B Glycerin 4810 Glycerin 3 water Aqua To 100 Mg.SO4.7H2O 0.5 C preservative 0.7 ZnO 10 Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.) Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

Radia 7887: the movie

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

The identity of Radia 7750 Radia 7750 INCI: ISOAMYL LAURATE Performance: High wetting power Solvating functionality (short chain ester) Sensorial: Silky feeling Degreasing power Excellent spreadability & quick penetration Anti-tack agent Speciality: Natural building blocks Practical Usage Applications: Body oils & bath oils Wet wipes Natural hair care products O/W & W/O creams Radia 7750

Radia 7750: a green chemical

Radia 7750: wetting properties

Radia 7750: practical use Usage level Often used as primary oil : 4-80%. Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils. O/W and W/O emulsion creams: 5-20%. Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 % Natural hair care: 1-5%

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Isostearic derivates: Characteristics Isostearic derivates are saturated: Chemical stability No need for antioxidant Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil. Isostearic derivates are branched: Excellent emolliency Non-greasy afterfeel Highly substantive lipid film Soft skinfeel Glossy appearance

Isostearic derivates: Characteristics Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues): No crystallization Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives Isostearic derivates are liquid: Cold emulsion method Practicial use A solution for heat sensitive products A solution for challenging formulations

Isostearic derivates: Portfolio INCI Radia Isostearyl alcohol Radianol 1980 Isostearic Acid Radiacid 908/909 Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7687 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7181 Triisostearin Radia 7373 Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate Radia 7380 Isopropyl Isostearate Radia 7739

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373 INCI: TRIISOSTEARIN Performance: Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments Solvating functionality Modifies melting points Sensorial: Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient Speciality: ‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification properties Applications: Lipsticks (long lasting) Colour cosmetics 39

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7739 INCI: ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE Performance: Light texture emollient Functions as overall reducer of tackiness Affective solvent and disperser Sensorial: High gloss & low occlusive Fast absorption & good spreadability Imperceptible afterfeel on the skin(Better than IPM) Speciality: low amount of residue required Applications: Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations Face and eyes make up Radia 7739

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7380 INCI: TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE Performance: Substantive and roch, film forming emollient Dispersant for solid ingredients Potential SPF booster Sensorial: Good Lubricant Rich Film forming emollient Shine & plasticizer properties in hair care Non-tacky feel Improves skin elasticity Speciality: Mineral oil replacement Applications: general skin & hair care depilatory creams, colour cosmetics, sun and baby care, shaving formulations Radia 7380

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7687 INCI: NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIISOSTEARATE Performance: Silky and good spreading emollient Viscosity increasing agent Sensorial: Skin conditioning agent Silky and rich skin feel Applications: Sun care Protective creams Shaving creams Moisturizing creams and lotions Baby care Make-up Radia 7687

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7181 INCI: PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE Performance: Dispersant activities Contributes as waterrepellent agent Pearlescent – bodying agent Sensorial: High gloss film Resists to rub off Good lubrication & reduces drag on application Substantive and cushion feel. Speciality: Good alternative to castor oil. Applications: Sun care Liquid foundations Lipsticks High solid make up Radia 7181

Oleon Head Office Assenedestraat 2 9940 Ertvelde - Belgium T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11 F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00 E: info@oleon.com