Juan Carlos Ortiz Royero Ph.D. Wave Hydrodynamics Juan Carlos Ortiz Royero Ph.D. From: wavcis.csi.lsu.edu/ocs4024/ocs402403waveHydrodynamics.ppt and the book: wind generated ocean wave by Ian R. Young 1999

Fields Related to Ocean Wave       Ocean Engineering: Ship, water borne transport, offshore structures (fixed and floating platforms).      Navy: Military activity, amphibious operation,   Coastal Engineering: Harbor and ports, coastal structures, beach erosion, sediment transport

The inner shelf is a friction-dominated zone where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap. (From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994. With permission.)

Conceptual diagram illustrating physical transport processes on the inner shelf. (From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994. With permission.)

Approximate distribution of ocean surface wave energy illustrating the classification of surface waves by wave band, primary disturbance force, and primary restoring force.

SEAS Waves under the influence of winds in a generating area SWELL Waves moved away from the generating area and no longer influenced by winds

Time taken for two successive crests to pass a given point in space WAVE CHARACTERISTICS T = WAVE PERIOD Time taken for two successive crests to pass a given point in space

Wave Pattern Combining Four Regular Waves

Linear Wave or small amplitude theory Assumptions: The water is of constant depth d The wave motion is two-dimensional The waves are of constant form (do not change with time) The water is incompressible Effect of viscocity, turbulence and surface tension are neglected. The wave height H: H / L  1 and H /d  1 ( L is the wave length)

Regular Waves

Governing equations Conservation of Mass: Continuity equation, for incompressible fluids Velocity potential

Navier- Stokes equation Governing equations Laplace Equation: Navier- Stokes equation p is pressure is the water density  is diffusion coefficient

Unsteady Bernoulli equation: Fluid is incompressible, no viscous, irrotational, etc.. Euler equation: Unsteady Bernoulli equation:

Boundary conditions Dynamic boundary condition at the free surface: In z = , p = 0 Kinematic boundary condition at the free surface: In z = , there can be no transport of fluid through the free surface (the vertical velocity must equal the vertical of the free surface

Solution (Airy 1845, Stokes 1847) : Boundary conditions Kinematic boundary condition at the bed: In z = - d, there can be no transport of fluid through the free surface (the vertical velocity must equal zero) Solution (Airy 1845, Stokes 1847) :

Dispersion relationship

Deep water Intermediate water Shallow water

Longer waves travel faster than shorter waves. Small increases in T are associated with large increases in L. Long waves (swell) move fast and lose little energy. Short wave moves slower and loses most energy before reaching a distant coast.

Example: What is the fase velocity of tsunami in deep water? Solution: The typical wave length of a tsunami is thousand of kilometers and periods of hours. Since the wave length of tsunami is very large compared with the depth, then tsunami is a shallow water wave.

Velocity components of the fluid particles (HORIZONTAL) (VERTICAL)

Motions of the fluid particles

Kinetic + Potential = Total Energy of Wave System WAVE ENERGY AND POWER Kinetic + Potential = Total Energy of Wave System Kinetic: due to H2O particle velocity Potential: due to part of fluid mass being above trough. (i.e. wave crest)

WAVE ENERGY FLUX (Wave Power) Rate at which energy is transmitted in the direction of progradation.

HIGHER ORDER THEORIES HIGHER ORDER WAVES ARE: Better agreement between theoretical and observed wave behavior. Useful in calculating mass transport. HIGHER ORDER WAVES ARE: More peaked at the crest. Flatter at the trough. Distribution is skewed above SWL.

Comparison of second-order Stokes’ profile with linear profile.

Stokes, 1847

Waves theories

Regions of validity for various wave theories.

Conclusions Linear Wave Theory: Simple, good approximation for 70-80 % engineering applications. Nonlinear Wave Theory: Complicated, necessary for about 20-30 % engineering applications. Both results are based on the assumption of non-viscous flow.

Thanks!!