Chapter 22 Hair Removal

“Although fate presents the circumstances, how you react depends on your character.” – Anonymous

Objectives Describe the elements of a client consultation for hair removal. Name the conditions that contraindicate hair removal in the salon. Identify and describe three methods of permanent hair removal. Demonstrate the techniques involved in temporary hair removal. LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?) Mastering the techniques of removing unwanted hair will be of great benefit to the professional cosmetologist because, at some point, nearly every client will encounter unwanted hair in one area or another. Excessive hair can be extremely embarrassing and unattractive for female clients, especially when found on the face and chest. It is important for the cosmetologist to be very sensitive when approaching a client about this type of service. You will want to learn how to remove unwanted hair in ways that cause the least amount of discomfort for the client and create lasting results. The technical terms for excessive hair are hirsuties (hur-SOO-shee-eez) or hypertrichosis (hy-pur-trih-KOH-sis). Simply, both mean that there is hair growth in unusual amounts or locations that needs to be removed. This problem of excessive hairiness has been around for centuries. History documents that everything from abrasive pumice stones to sharpened stones and seashells have been used to rub off and pluck out hair. Records also indicate that primitive chemicals were used for this purpose. Egyptians made a compound of mud and alum, which was unpleasant and could pit the surface of the skin. Turks used a combination of yellow sulfide of arsenic, quicklime, and rose water, which created a primitive depilatory called rusma. Today, methods of hair removal fall into two categories: Depilation: Removing hair at the skin line, such as shaving and using chemical depilatories. Epilation: Removing hair below the skin line, such as tweezing, waxing, and electrolysis. Your knowledge of the history and techniques of both methods will increase your ability to determine where hair should be removed and to select and use the proper technique in the safest possible manner.

Hair Removal Hirsuties (hypertrichosis): the growth of hair on body parts that normally bear only downy hair Women Brows, upper lip, face, arms, legs, bikini line Men Back, shoulders, nape, chest HAIR REMOVAL WOMEN – (PRIMARY CLIENTS): Service areas include brows, upper lip, face, arms, legs, and bikini line. MALE CLIENTS. Hair removal is on the rise for men; they may want it removed from back, shoulders, nape, and chests. If they compete in sports like bicycling and swimming, it may facilitate faster competition times. NOTE: Rent the movie What Women Want and cue it up to the scene where the star is waxing his legs. This humorous teaching aid can show how not to perform a waxing service.

Two Categories of Removal Permanent (electrolysis, laser removal, photoepilation) Temporary (tweezing, waxing, shaving)

Client Consultation Disclosure of topical and oral medications Disclosure of skin disorders or allergies CLIENT CONSULTATION. The main purpose of consultation is to determine the presence of any contraindications for hair removal. Each client should complete a detailed questionnaire that discloses significant personal information prior to receiving a hair removal service. Disclose both topical and oral medications. Disclose known skin disorders or allergies.

Health Screening Form Discloses medications and allergies Release form

Contraindication Any condition or disease that makes an indicated treatment or medication inadvisable CONTRAINDICATION: Any condition or disease that makes an indicated treatment or medication inadvisable.

Hair Removal Contraindications Recent use of isotretinoin (Accutane) Use of blood-thinning medications Use of autoimmune disease drugs Use of prednisone or steroids Presence of psoriasis, eczema (chronic skin diseases) HAIR REMOVAL CONTRAINDICATIONS Hair removal services should not be performed on clients with these conditions: Use of isotretinoin (Accutane) in past six months Use of blood-thinning medications Use of drugs for autoimmune diseases such as lupus Use of prednisone or steroids Presence of psoriasis, eczema, or other chronic skin diseases

Hair Removal Contraindications (continued) Sunburn Presence of pustules or papules Recent cosmetic/reconstructive surgery Recent laser skin treatment Severe varicose veins Other questionable conditions Sunburn Presence of pustules or papules in area to be waxed Recent cosmetic/reconstructive surgery Recent laser skin treatment Severe varicose veins Other questionable conditions

Facial Waxing Contraindications Rosacea or sensitive skin Fever blisters or cold sores Recent chemical peel Recent microdermabrasion Use of exfoliants Recent laser treatment Use of hydroquinone

Permanent Hair Removal Electrolysis Photoepilation Laser PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL: Includes electrolysis, photoepilation, and laser hair removal.

Electrolysis Current applied with fine electrode Can be painful, time-consuming, expensive Requires special license ELECTROLYSIS: The removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the root of the hair. Current applied with fine, needle-shaped electrode. The electrode is inserted into the hair follicle. Can be painful, time-consuming, and expensive Performed only by a licensed electrologist

Photoepilation Also known as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Minimal side effects Requires no needles (reduced risk) Clears 50 percent to 60 percent of hair in 12 weeks Requires license PHOTOEPILATION: Uses intense light to destroy hair follicles. Administered by cosmetologists and estheticians. The state law determines who can perform. Training is generally provided by the manufacturer of the photoepilation equipment.

Laser Hair Removal Rapid removal Best in anagen phase Best response from coarse, dark hair Requires specialized training LASER HAIR REMOVAL: A laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing the hair follicle. Rapid removal of unwanted hair Best if hair is in the anagen phase. Coarse, dark hair responds best. For some, the laser method brings permanent results; for others, regrowth is slowed down. Requires specialized training. State law determines who is allowed to perform the service.

Temporary Methods Shaving Tweezing Depilatories Epilatories TEMPORARY METHODS: These methods of hair removal may be offered in the salon or spa.

Shaving Men’s facial hair Women’s legs and underarms Quick and convenient Can result in irritation, ingrown hairs, and nicks from the blade SHAVING. Men’s facial hair Women’s legs and underarms Quick and convenient Can result in irritation, ingrown hairs, and nicks from the blade. Electric clipper can be used to remove unwanted hair at the nape of the neck. NOTE: Please refer your students to Milady’s barbering textbook for more detailed procedures and information regarding men’s shaving.

Tweezing Tweezing used to shape eyebrows and remove undesirable hairs around mouth and chin. The natural arch of the brow follows the orbital bone or the curved line of the eye socket. Consultation is used to avoid mistakes and ensure client satisfaction. NOTE: Explain to students that the actual procedure for tweezing will be covered during the practical class.

Depilatories Substances used for temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving at skin level Contain detergents Contain adhesives Expand hair, break disulfide bonds Require patch test DEPILATORIES: Substances, usually caustic alkali preparations, used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at skin level. Contain detergents to strip sebum from hair Contain adhesives to hold chemicals to hair shaft for 5 to 10 minutes Expand hair and break disulfide bonds, which are then destroyed. Chemicals like sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, thioglycolate acid, or calcium thioglycolate used to destroy bonds Require patch test if performed in salon

Epilatories Wax (hot or cold) Applied to brows, cheeks, chin, upper lip, arms, and legs EPILATORIES: Remove hair from the bottom of the follicle. Wax, hot or cold. Made primarily from resins and beeswax. Applied to brows, cheeks, chin, upper lip, arms, and legs. On male clients, may be used to remove hair on back and nape of neck. Hair should be at least 1/4 to 2 inches long for waxing to be effective. Do not remove vellus (lanugo) hair.

Hair Removal Procedures

Waxing Safety Precautions Test wax temperature. Avoid wax contact with eyes. Do not apply over warts, moles, abrasions, or irritated or inflamed skin. Use cold wax on sensitive underarms. Apply aloe gel to calm and soothe.

Threading Practiced in Eastern cultures. Involves manipulation of thread. Thread is twisted and rolled on skin surface. Hair is entwined and lifted from follicle. Specialized training is required. THREADING: A temporary method of hair removal practiced in many Eastern cultures; involves manipulation of cotton thread, which is twisted and rolled along the skin surface, entwining the hair in the thread and lifting it from the follicle. Method requires specialized training.

Sugaring An epilatory treatment that produces the same results as hot or cold wax Uses thick, sugar-based paste Appropriate for sensitive skin Residue removed by dissolving with warm water

Practical Class Pre-Service Procedure Post-Service Procedure Eyebrow Tweezing Eyebrow Waxing Body Waxing NOTE: Explain to the class where and when the practical class will occur. Hand out procedure sheets from LP 22.0 that correlate with each of the practical sessions. Have students follow along while you review the procedures. Have students put the sheets away during your demonstration or the presentation of the DVD procedure. It is recommended that the DVD series be used for demonstrations to ensure consistency from class to class and from instructor to instructor.

Summary and Review What information should be entered on the intake form during the consultation? What conditions, treatments, and medications contraindicate hair removal? What are the two major types of hair removal? Give examples of each. Define electrolysis, photoepilation, and laser removal. SUMMARY AND REVIEW In this lesson, you've learned that hair is removed by: Depilation: Removing hair at the skin line, such as by shaving and using chemical depilatories. Epilation: Removing hair below the skin line, such as by tweezing, waxing, and electrolysis. As a licensed practitioner, you will be asked to remove unwanted hair, especially the eyebrows and facial hair. If you choose to specialize in esthetics, you will want to become proficient in other hair removal services as allowed by the regulatory agency in the state or province where you practice. It is extremely important to follow sanitary guidelines when removing unwanted hair. Never forget to cleanse and dry the treatment area prior to treatment and apply a cooling antiseptic afterwards. Follow all safety precautions to protect client from skin irritation or inflammation.   1.What information should be entered on the intake form during the consultation? Answer: Information should include all medications, both topical and oral; any skin disorders; any allergies or sensitivities. 2.What conditions, treatments, and medications contraindicate hair removal? Answer: Conditions that contraindicate hair removal: rosacea or very sensitive skin; sunburn; history of fever blisters or cold sores; pustules or papules. Treatments that contraindicate hair removal of an area: recent chemical peel using glycolic, salicylic, or other acid-based product; recent microdermabrasion or laser treatment; recent Botox or collagen injections; cosmetic or reconstructive surgery. Medications that contraindicate hair removal: Retin-A, Renova, hydroquinone, or similar products; blood-thinning medications; topical or oral cortisone medication; Accutane. 3. What are the two major types of hair removal? Give examples of each. Answer: The two major types are permanent (electrolysis, photoepilation, laser) and temporary (shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezing, depilatories, epilatories, waxing, sugaring, threading). 4. Define electrolysis, photoepilation, and laser removal. Answer: •Electrolysis is the permanent removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the root of the hair. •Photoepilation is a permanent hair removal treatment that uses intense light to destroy the hair. •Laser removal is a permanent hair removal treatment in which a laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing the hair follicles.

Summary and Review (continued) Which hair removal techniques should not be performed without special training? What is the difference between a depilatory and an epilatory? Why is a patch test given before waxing? List safety precautions for hot and cold waxing. Define threading and sugaring. 5.Which hair removal techniques should not be performed without special training? Answer: Electrolysis, photoepilation, laser removal, sugaring, threading.   6.What is the difference between a depilatory and an epilatory? Answer: A depilatory dissolves the hair at the skin level. An epilatory pulls the hair out of the follicle. 7.Why is a patch test given before waxing? Answer: A patch test is given to determine if the client is too sensitive for waxing treatment. 8.List safety precautions for hot and cold waxing. Answer: Avoid wax contact with eyes. Do not apply over warts, abrasions, irritated or inflamed skin, or moles. Use cold wax if underarm skin is sensitive. Apply aloe gel to red or swollen skin. 9.Define threading and sugaring. Answer: Threading is the temporary hair removal method that involves twisting and rolling cotton thread along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in the thread, and lifting it from the follicle. Sugaring is a temporary hair removal method that involves the use of a thick, sugar-based paste.

You have completed one unit of study toward course completion. Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.