Monitoring & Predicting CA Waves & Sand Migration Overview of CDIP A New Monitoring-Based Approach to Predicting Beach Change The CDIP Wave & Sand MOnitoring.

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Presentation transcript:

Monitoring & Predicting CA Waves & Sand Migration Overview of CDIP A New Monitoring-Based Approach to Predicting Beach Change The CDIP Wave & Sand MOnitoring & Prediction (MOP) System CDIP MOP Program Goals & Synergies 01

CDIP Mission Based at SIO since Wave Stations 170km Beach Monitoring (Mexican Border – Long Beach) 14 People $2.5M+ / year budget Funded by: USACE CDBW CA CC ONR NSF NOAA BEACON Monitor and Predict Coastal Waves and Beach Change COASTAL DATA INFORMATION PROGRAM 02

Datawell Directional Waverider CDIP Wave Monitoring 03

CDIP Sand Monitoring 04

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches CDIP Waves & Sand Islands Shelf Surf Beach 05

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf CDIP Waves & Sand 06

07

Currents -Surface (6km) -Surface (6km)Waves -San Pedro Buoy -San Pedro Buoy -Prediction Points -Prediction Points -Swell Model -Swell Model NOAA Charts Shipping Lanes Port of Los Angeles/Long Beach –Customized Website integrates CDIP Waves and SCCOOS HF Radar Surface Currents Wave Forecast 08

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf CDIP Waves & Sand 09

Huntington Beach Wave Buoy Local Seas Monitoring-Based Nearshore Sea & Swell Predictions Distant Swells 10

11

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf CDIP Waves & Sand 12

South Swell West Swell Local Seas Santa Ana River Alongshore Current ? Huntington State Beach 2006 Nearshore Circulation Experiment Huntington Beach Pier 13

Huntington State Beach Mean Alongshore Current Prediction Northward Current Southward Current Flow Reversal Sep-Oct

RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach CDIP Waves & Sand 15

16

Beach response to waves varies greatly throughout the SCBPS region. specific How a specific beach responds to waves can be surprisingly well predicted by simple models detailed “tuned” with detailed monitoring data. Numerous wave-driven subcells exist within the Oceanside littoral cell. 6 Years of Concurrent Wave & Sand Monitoring Preliminary Findings 17

Torrey Pines : Monitoring-based Beach Change Predictions 18

Oceanside Littoral Cell: The “River of Sand” Wave-Driven Net Southward Sand Transport Sand Leaves Cell at Scripps Submarine Canyon 19

CDIP Buoys Wave Climate : Oceanside Littoral Cell Alongshore Wave Climate Reconstruction Incident waves Cross-shore Component Alongshore Component 20

Wave-driven Lagoon Sub-Cells Batiquitos Sub-Cell Moonlight Sub-Cell San Elijo Sub-Cell Fletcher Sub-Cell San Diegito Sub-Cell Penesquitos Sub-Cell Torrey Pines Sub-Cell 21

Coastal Lagoon Sand Borrow Sites Ocean 20m depth contour COASTAL LAGOON LITTORAL SUB-CELLS Potential downcoast sand transport increases between Lagoons. Naturally sand-deprived section of coast along base of cliffs between Lagoons. Natural Wave Erosion Hot Spot. + Net Offshore Sand Transport 0 Net Alongshore Transport Sand Borrow Sites Wave-driven transport slows near lagoon entrance 10m more sand less sand 22

CDIP Waves and Sand MOnitoring & Prediction (MOP) System Wave Monitoring  Wave Buoy Network  NOAA WW3 Forecasts Surfzone Monitoring  Current Measurements  Dye/Drifter Tracking  Jetski Sand level Surveys Beach Modeling  Beach width change  Inundation levels Coastal Wave Modeling  Breaking wave heights  Radiation stresses (Sxx,Sxy) Beach Monitoring  LIDAR  ATV Sand level surveys Surfzone Modeling  Current Direction & Speed  Bottom Velocities Public Access To Core Coastal Environment Variables Via “MOP Sites” 23

The CA coastline is divided into a contiguous set of MOP Polygons. Polygon IDentifier based on County 24

Each MOP Polygon is bisected by a MOP Transect. 25

Each MOP Transect is bounded by a MOP Nearshore Site and a MOP Backbeach Site. Backbeach Site ~100m alongshore spacing Nearshore Site (10m Depth) 26

Online Access To MOP Wave Information 27

CA Counties with Operational MOP Wave Information 28

Predicted surfzone averaged alongshore currents are provided at each transect on a relatively straight beach without obstructions. A seasonal cross-shore bathymetry profile is assumed if there is no recent survey data. MOP Alongshore Currents 29

MOP Coastal Inundation Predicted Inundation Elevations will be provided for transects with simple shoreline profiles Known elevation that results in parking lot flooding at this location 30

31

Each MOP Polygon will contain a set of MOP Sandboxes. NEXT: MOPS & RSM 32

MOP Program Goals SustainableSustainable State-wide Monitoring and Prediction of Coastal Waves & Sand Migration. ExpandedExpanded support of fundamental research using MOP monitoring data. Formal and Routine communication withFormal and Routine communication with coastal engineers and decision-makers. 33

MOPping UP 2 Years of seed money from CDBW San Diego County MOP-RSM Demonstration Project New Cooperative Agreement with USGS Southern California Coastal Hazards Project 34

MOP-RSM Synergies MONITORING : USGS & NPS : Nearshore Sand Survey Teams PREDICTION : MOP-RSM Climate Change Initiatives? POLICY CALOST : science-to-policy success story? OPC: Tri-State Collaboration? 35

Tri-State Collaboration WA, OR, CA WA, OR, CA CDIP has wave buoys at the entrance to all the major west coast ports except the Columbia River/Portland USACE USACE dredging and shoreline management dredging and shoreline management NOAA & NWS NOAA & NWS website dissemination website dissemination marine broadcast on NOAA marine broadcast on NOAA weather channel weather channel USGS & Dept. of Ecology (WA) USGS & Dept. of Ecology (WA) shoreline change and erosion shoreline change and erosion Maritime Transportation Maritime Transportation interstate commerce interstate commerce Ocean Observing Systems Ocean Observing Systems SCCOOS, CENCOOS, NANOOS SCCOOS, CENCOOS, NANOOS Coos Bay Gray’s Harbor Humboldt Bay San Francisco LA/LB San Diego Port Hueneme 36