©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education1 The Level System Levels / Tones of Hair Color

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color2 Performance Objective Upon completion of this assignment, the student will be able to identify levels and tones of natural hair color.

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color3 Specific Objectives Define level and tone of hair color. List the levels of hair color. Determine the level and the base of a clients hair.

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color4 Test your knowledge. How many levels of hair color are there?

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color5 There are 10 levels of hair color

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color6 Test your knowledge. Is there a difference between bases and tones?

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color7 Bases and tones are the same

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color8 Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness and darkness of a color Value or depth of a color Scale of 1-10 Level 1 Darkest Level 10 Lightest A universal system is available for hairdressers that removes the ominous guesswork & fear of formulations Manufacturers have hair swatches that can be used to determine the natural level of hair color Level Systems

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color9 Referred to as a base or tone of hair color Warmth and coolness of hair color Under lying color pigment in the hair The color tone is developed from a combination of color pigments in the hair The hair’s natural color pigment is found in the cortex layer of the hair The color pigment is made up of color cells arranged lengthwise in the cortex layer Natural hair color is developed by combinations of these pigments, either black-brown or red- yellow Tone or Tonality

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color10 Tone or Tonality The combination of these colors decides whether the hair will be light or dark Light brown hair has greater amount of yellow/red cells, while dark hair has a greater amount of brown/black cells Warm color – highlightening color Red Orange Yellow Cool – Drab or ash Blue Green violet

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color11 Tone or Tonality Warm colors – appear lighter reds, oranges and yellows Warm hair color names auburn, copper, gold, bronze, honey Cool colors – appear darker blues, greens, violets Cool hair color names ash, drab, smokey, platinum Influences results of artificial hair color

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©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color13 Intensity Strength of a color tone Mild, medium, or strong.  Strawberry blonde Copper brown Bright orange  Various intensities off red shades

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color14 Base Predominant tone of an existing color Influences the final color result Base colors Violet base will deliver cool results & minimize unwanted yellow Blue base color will minimize orange tones Red-orange base will create bright, warm results Gold bases create gold haircolor from brunettes to light blondes

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color15 Activity Use a natural level hair swatch Take 2” square section in crown area Hold up from scalp Allow light to pass through Move swatch from scalp from scalp area along hair strand The level is determined if the swatch and natural hair blend Identifying the level / tone of natural hair color

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color16 Note Hair at the crown is usually darker that the front of the hair Client may not perceive that her “natural “ hair is that dark Environment, mechanical tools, chemicals affect the look they see Remember : levels are lightness and darkness only

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©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color18 ARTIFICIAL LIGHTS CAN EFFECT A PERSON’S PERCEPTION OF NATURAL HAIR COLOR FLOURESCENT LIGHTS DISTORT HAIR COLOR. ALWAYS USE NATURAL LIGHT TO ANALYZE HAIR COLOR

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color19 Factors affecting Haircolor  Hair porosity  State of the cuticle  Type of light  Indoors or outdoors, fluorescent & incandescent  Surroundings  Walls painted  Drape  Clothing

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color20 Color Level 1. Black 2. Black brown 3. Darkest brown 4. Dark brown 5. Medium brown 6. Light brown 7. Dark blonde 8. Medium blonde 9. Light blonde 10. Lightest blonde

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©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color22 Depth of Color Up until now we have been discussing the mixing of colors at full color strength Now we will look at the reaction we get when primary colors are mixed with equal amounts of white Play dough 16 small white balls 5 primary color balls Mix 1 white 1 primary Mix 2 white 1 primary Mix 3 white 1 primary Continue mixing By doing this combination of colors with white you create different colors of depth

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial EducationCosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color23 Depth of Color By using various mixtures and combinations the lightest shades are created with almost limitless possibilities Depth or level of color indicates how dark or how light the color really is The more white used in the mixture, the lighter the color The more black used in the mixture, the darker the color